Northern Hyd grinder, making it work (pics)

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I get acceptable results. My biggest problem is the adjustments when going from one side of the chain to the other. While the results are acceptable, they are not as good as when I take the chain to my local shop. I have never tried the 10 degree tilt thing. Neither does my local shop.
 
I concider my chains sharp

Ok so how many of you guys with the 193020 chinese knock off get the razor sharp results? I have used mine now for about 3 months and am seriousley thinking of going back to hand filing. I have read alot on as today and plan on trying it again i have 6 chains in the shop i am going to hit today, and will put the 10 degree angle on them, however i have never had one of these chains cut my hand like they do when i file them.

Although I have never cut a finger on one cause I am not pushing a file into the tooth either. I have one guy that brings me 3 chains every few weeks. I charge him 3 bucks a chain.. he bought my grinder for me ages ago. LOL
I still file in the woods..
 
Ok so how many of you guys with the 193020 chinese knock off get the razor sharp results? I have used mine now for about 3 months and am seriousley thinking of going back to hand filing. I have read alot on as today and plan on trying it again i have 6 chains in the shop i am going to hit today, and will put the 10 degree angle on them, however i have never had one of these chains cut my hand like they do when i file them.

Definitely not as sharp as hand filing. Pretty decent edge that last fairly long with the effort needed to get a chain sharp. I have a couple of folks I sharpen chains for and they seem happy enough.

I do most of my own chains on it, but have found that hand filing produces better result on my 3/8 when the tooth is nearly gone.

Knowing what I know now about the unit, it was a good investment.
 
I bought one of these grinders while it was on sale (~$85). Shortly after ordering it I found a Silvey square grinder of CL for peanuts, so the NH grinder is basically on mothballs. I should do these mods (nice job Butch!) and just use it on my little chains.
 
Wet 1 , you could do as one of the other members suggested and set it up with a flat wheel to do the rakers .
 
I have the same deal i put a extra clamp on the up right adjuster the one didnt
seem to have enough bite to keep them from moving .for a c note not a
bad deal.i am getting another wheel the one that came with it is almost
imposible to get straight.
 
I get acceptable results. My biggest problem is the adjustments when going from one side of the chain to the other. While the results are acceptable, they are not as good as when I take the chain to my local shop. I have never tried the 10 degree tilt thing. Neither does my local shop.

You mean you never tilt the table for left and right cutters at the proper 10deg??? If not, you should, that's the way most chains are supposed to be, besides the little 1/4" chains.

Oh, and I get great results with using this grinder.
 
You mean you never tilt the table for left and right cutters at the proper 10deg??? If not, you should, that's the way most chains are supposed to be, besides the little 1/4" chains.

Oh, and I get great results with using this grinder.

A local Stihl dealer told me a while ago, that the tilt is no longer as important as it used to be. I haven't used it in over a year. Haven't really noticed much difference, and it is a lot quicker sharpening chains.

I'll have to try the tilt again. Got some Black Locust firewood to work on in the next couple of weeks (or after the ground freezes). I've also got a couple of chains that could use a touch-up.

One thing that comes to mind...

Do not take the rakers down too low; especially in hardwood. The saw will get real jumpy and I don't believe it is as efficient.
 
A local Stihl dealer told me a while ago, that the tilt is no longer as important as it used to be. I haven't used it in over a year. Haven't really noticed much difference, and it is a lot quicker sharpening chains.

I'll have to try the tilt again. Got some Black Locust firewood to work on in the next couple of weeks (or after the ground freezes). I've also got a couple of chains that could use a touch-up.

One thing that comes to mind...

Do not take the rakers down too low; especially in hardwood. The saw will get real jumpy and I don't believe it is as efficient.

Hmm, I didn't think the chains would work properly if you didn't tilt back at 10deg, do you file at 0 as well???
 
A local Stihl dealer told me a while ago, that the tilt is no longer as important as it used to be. I haven't used it in over a year. Haven't really noticed much difference, and it is a lot quicker sharpening chains.

Apparently it never was important, we just thought so.:dizzy:
 
China knock off

I called northern friday to order the grinder, my book had it listed on sale for 85.00, but my credit card wouldnt go threw, and she said , you must have an old catalog there not on sale any more there 100.00 bucks, no problem, Ill try another card monday, I ordered it this morning and,..The guy says there 85,00 bucks, no argument here,. Ill take one, that lil savings pretty much took care of the shiping cost, Iam ready to start doing my own chains and stop running back,..and forth,..and paying some one else to do it, Steel
 
You mean you never tilt the table for left and right cutters at the proper 10deg??? If not, you should, that's the way most chains are supposed to be, besides the little 1/4" chains.

Oh, and I get great results with using this grinder.

If I remember right, my Stihl chart calls for 0 degree on the tilt. So does the Oregon's on my Homelites. In the instructions that came with the grinder, I have seen some call for the tilt.

My biggest problem is the chain stop not being consistent when swiveling from one cutter to the other side. Probably operator error.

I did grind the 1/4 stone to the correct flat with the stone to do the rakers. That took forever.
 
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That chart is great. I printed a copy and it is fuzzy. Do you recall where you got the original copy?
Thanks.
 

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