One lonely milling pic

[Haywire Haywood]

I got my 041 back together last week and the loop of Bailey's LP ripping chain came in so I had to go try it out. I had two things I could mill. A telephone pole or a little 12" walnut log about 4' long that I had been using for a bench by the fire pit. Guess which one got a slab or two taken off? The two things that I discovered are: 1) The front chain tensioner on the 041 is totally covered with the mill mounted and 2) I have got to do something different with my rails. Adjusting them is a pain.

The LP chain did great. Stretched a lot on the first pass, had to dismount the mill and tighten, but then it held without further stretch for the next 2. The first pass was a lot faster than I expected and the other two while still quick were understandably slower since they were deeper in the log. --Ian

 

[dustytools]

Ian, I have plenty uni-strut laying around. If you want to we could weld up a ladder type set of rails for you. Wouldnt have to make any adjustments that way. I may have to try the LP ripping chain sometime soon. Did you get the .365 and if so does it work on a .375 sprocket?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I got the 365 and it seems to work fine on a 375 bar and sprocket. The dust was moving out at a pretty good clip. The oiler on the old girl was working good too. After I was done I pulled the chain out from the bar and there was enough oil on it to "string" from the bar to the drive link. It was a small log tho and was sopping wet so it didn't absorb any to speak of.

The rail setup I have will work as is with the long all thread connecting the unistrut. I just need to flip it over like we were talking about and find something to fit the open side for the angle that screws to the log. Hard to explain clearly in a post.

Ian

 

[Trigger-Time]

Remember one picture is worth a thousand words.





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[dustytools]

I got the 365 and it seems to work fine on a 375 bar and sprocket. The dust was moving out at a pretty good clip. The oiler on the old girl was working good too. After I was done I pulled the chain out from the bar and there was enough oil on it to "string" from the bar to the drive link. It was a small log tho and was sopping wet so it didn't absorb any to speak of.

The rail setup I have will work as is with the long all thread connecting the unistrut. I just need to flip it over like we were talking about and find something to fit the open side for the angle that screws to the log. Hard to explain clearly in a post.

Ian

I think I know what you mean. Ill try to dig up some 1/4" flat stock and cut you out some pieces that will fit inside the rails and be able to slide along the two lips. What size bolts would you want to use on them for mounting to the angle?

 

[stonykill]

I got my 041 back together last week and the loop of Bailey's LP ripping chain came in so I had to go try it out. I had two things I could mill. A telephone pole or a little 12" walnut log about 4' long that I had been using for a bench by the fire pit. Guess which one got a slab or two taken off? The two things that I discovered are: 1) The front chain tensioner on the 041 is totally covered with the mill mounted and 2) I have got to do something different with my rails. Adjusting them is a pain.

The LP chain did great. Stretched a lot on the first pass, had to dismount the mill and tighten, but then it held without further stretch for the next 2. The first pass was a lot faster than I expected and the other two while still quick were understandably slower since they were deeper in the log. --Ian

Nice pic. I know what you mean about chain tensioners on old saws are covered by the mill. The thing to do is minimize stretch. Heres what I do. The night before I'm going to mill with a new chain (99 1/2 % of the time its lp chain from Baileys), I soak the chain in bar oil. The reason is simple. It's my beleif that the chain isn't so much stretching, as it is the rivets and holes wearing. Breaking in even. By soaking the chain overnight the rivets are totally lubed. Its actually a good idea to keep your spare chains in a ziplock bag after you have soaked them, to keep them ready.
If you want to make removing the mill quicker, go to Napa or Sears and buy an inexpensive set of ratchet wrenches. This way if your mill is set to say 1 1/2, you don't need to reset the depth to 4 inches to get the scrench on the nuts. This alone speeds the process up by a few minutes.
.365 uses the same sprocket as .375.
Isn't lp chain great!!? I hate it when I need to put on a large bar and go back to .375 milling chain. .375 mills SO MUCH SLOWER. I need to make up a few loops of lp for a 32 inch bar and experiment a bit.
thanks for the pics, and happy milling and merry christmas!

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I'll have to see if I can find a single 1/2" ratchet wrench instead of having to buy a set.

I only have the one loop of the LP at the moment. I just wanted to try it out. I was thinking about converting my 24" bar to 325, buying a rim and a loop of semi-chisel to try.

Ian

 

[stonykill]

I'll have to see if I can find a single 1/2" ratchet wrench instead of having to buy a set.

I only have the one loop of the LP at the moment. I just wanted to try it out. I was thinking about converting my 24" bar to 325, buying a rim and a loop of semi-chisel to try.

Ian

I'm so happy with lp .365, that I can't see spending the money to convert to .325. I run .365 on up to 24 inch bars, with absolutely no troubles, even with the 82cc P51's. I am toying with the idea of trying a 32 inch lp. Once the initial stretch is over, it should work fine. I just don't need a longer bar all that often, and afterall a 32 inch chain is 2 -16's I could have made instead.

 

[Semi-Hex]

At least it's a good picture. I seldom remember to use my camera even when I bring it.

 

[Stihl-in-Ky]

I have tried LP on my 30 bar and broke it the first day fixed it and broke it again.Now I only use it on 24" and under.
Ian on the 041 tensioner on the mill I marked both of mine and drilled out so I could get a screwdriver through it and adjust it still on the mill it has to be a narrow screwdriver and the hole needsto be angled but it will work.