One Saw Only....!!!

[a. palmer jr.]

For occasional use a 350 Husqvarna would be fine. For more use get a 346XP. Of course if it was me I would probably be using an old Poulan 306A.

 

[Fifelaker]

I am with Slowp on this one. A MS440 was my only saw for quite a few years. I figured a bigger saw can cut the little stuff well but a small saw cannot cut the big stuff well.

 

[Tree Feller]

In your case I see no need for a saw larger than 50CC. And personally if I were in your shoes i would get a Dolmar 5105 with a 16" and a 20" bar. It will handle your firewood needs and still be light enough to clear brush. Good Luck!

 

[woodsroad]

If you read the guys intended use, he doesn't needanything more than a 50cc saw. A MS250 would actually serve you very well.

My first saw was an 025 with a 16" bar. I think that the 250 is the current version? We live on 5 wooded acres, trees up to about 95 years old, a lot of them around 50 yo. Lots of boulders. The 025 is light enough for all day use, is safe and easy to use with the 16" bar in confined areas with little maneuverability. I didn't need a bigger saw until I had to fell trees in the 36" range. I still reach for the 025 for most of what I do.

Stay as light as you can, and with the shortest bar possible. That cuts down on your exposed "moving cutters" surface area, lets you work faster and safer. You can always add a longer bar and chain if you need to buck larger wood.

 

[woodsroad]

I thought I only had one running saw. Then I took the old one to the saw shop and got it going. But, one would have been enough. My vote for all around saw is the 440. It came with a 20 inch bar, I put a 28 inch bar on it, and it will run a 32" bar.

I have an 044 and love it, but it gets really heavy limbing and bucking big tree. Really heavy. And tired arms aren't safe arms. I can swing an 025 around all day, though. But I'm more than halfway through this mortal coil, a younger man might do well with just a 440. But that's a pricey saw.

More importantly, do you know how to sharpen a chain?

Well, there you go, that is the important question. A sharp chain on a 201t will beat a dull chain on an 044.

 

[hoeyrd2110]

what about the 500P? with a 16/20" bars. if i had to have one "new" saw thats what i would do....that or 5105 but if $$ is involved i'd stay 500P.

 

[Andyshine77]

I can only have one saw. :msp_mad:

I will use it for brushing out hunting land and clearing shooting lanes in Minnesota and basic firewood cutting.

My question is what bar length to get? 14", 16", 18" or 20"

I am having trouble deciding length -vs- weight -vs- saw manuverability?

Any suggestion is appreciated.

Regards,

BlueSmoke

My brother originally bought his saw with the same intended purpose as yourself. He ended up with a Dolmar 510. For the money, quality (metal case) and intended use, it has worked out well and he love's the saw. I recommend that saw along with the Dolmar 421, both have metal cases and are built more like pro saws, yet they have a non pro price tag.

 

[john taliaferro]

I was given a 280 which is close to the 250 i think it would be a good place to start . Go to a saw shop and they will trade with you if its not wright size and help you learn to file chain . And laugh when you come back after the 3 or 4 new saw .

 

[Whistler]

Me I'm going with a MS361. I use a 20" bar minimum. Short guys like 16"-18". Small firewood bucking on a rack 16". They pull a full skip 28" if you ever need to.

Keywords : short guys like 16"-18". This is important ! I am 6' tall with long arms and run a 20" on my 45cc 346 Husky. I have shorter bars to run but never use em. Anything shorter than 20" feels like I am always bent over ! I have bigger saws but my go-to-saw for what you are doing (as I have) is my 346. Guaranteed it isn't the best for blocking but it would do in a pinch and you can run it all day without it kickin your ----.

 

[greg409]

the best on the market

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/SlFHPmbw4Y0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'd have to agree, $50 or so to figure out what size you might like?

Then keep it as a backup or loaner, come-on, it's a no-brainer.


luck,greg

 

[dl5205]

It is heartwarming to see all the replies to this thread

 

[BlueSmoke12]

Thanks to all for sharing your collective wisdom.

I'm goin' to get to saw dealers today.

Regards,

BlueSmoke12

 

[Deer Camp]

To the OP, if you are going to be doing hinge cutting for habitat improvement, do not get anything bigger than 50cc or it will end up in your lap after awhile. Keep the saw light.

For bar length, I personally use a 20" on my 50cc Makita DCS520 as it gives me better reach for habitat work and bending over to remove saplings for shooting lanes.

Should I encounter really large trees, I turn to the 562XP.

 

[jh35]

I'm on the cheap end and haven't caught the CAD yet. Husky 51, 16 inch bar one saw plan. I've had it since 2000. FIL and I cut 25-30 full cords a year for both of our uses and for sale and I do more of the cutting while he runs the loader. Like I said, I've done this on the cheap for as much as I cut.

Jeff

 

[sunfish]

I use a 346xp with 16" or 18" bar for exactly what you will be doing. Works Great!

 

[Saw Dr.]

OK, looks like I'll be the odd man out here. Many folks here scoff at 60cc machines, but that is what I'll recommend. Husky 359 is a great one saw plan for many farmers and landowners. Also you have 357's, 310/390's and 311/391's. Echo CS600p. All good choices. I like 60cc because they have enough beans to pull a 20" bar all day and use 3/8 chain like real big-boy saws. YMMV.

 

[sunfish]

OK, looks like I'll be the odd man out here. Many folks here scoff at 60cc machines, but that is what I'll recommend. Husky 359 is a great one saw plan for many farmers and landowners. Also you have 357's, 310/390's and 311/391's. Echo CS600p. All good choices. I like 60cc because they have enough beans to pull a 20" bar all day and use 3/8 chain like real big-boy saws. YMMV.

Good point and I like a 60cc for a do all firewood saw.

But for brushing and clearing like the OP said, I'd not want to swing a 60cc for hours and I'd much rather use .325 chain on the little stuff.

 

[bootboy]

+1 for the 500p

 

[nmurph]

I use a 346xp with 16" or 18" bar for exactly what you will be doing. Works Great!

Yep, light, strong, plenty of other saw's parts will swap, and no computer is needed to work on it.

 

[CTYank]

I'm going to suggest that a chainsaw for brushing is not a good idea. In fact, very dangerous, and stressful on the back.

Take yer pick of whatever 40-60cc saw strikes yer fancy for cutting the WOOD part, for whatever reason(s).

Get a straight-shaft brushcutter for the BRUSH stuff. I've used an Echo straight-shaft trimmer/brushcutter, with only a 20-some cc engine for years. Thinning saplings and lots of other projects. Just bolt on a 10", 80-tooth blade for cutting anything up to 3" diameter.

Wont snag on the small woody stuff. No bending-over. Uses almost no fuel. Still runs great after 30+ years.

Just keep spare blades handy. You'll be running it so much that they'll need some sharpening.