OWB pressurized system? Would this work?

[rx7145]

Hello,

I bought a Central Boiler (OWB) 4436 Jan. 2005. Ever sense then I can't seem to stop
modifying it. The first thing I did was put a circuit breaker in
place of the 3amp fuse. No more looking for a fuse at 2am when
creosote makes the draft door stick and blows the fuse. Later that
year I added one 80gal hot water tank for added capacity. Also the
water heater will kick on if the water temp gets to low and keep the
system from freezing. This System has worked well but It has a couple
set backs. Leaks- Try as hard as I can I just can't seem to get all
of them. They aren't big leaks at all, just a little dried Corrosion
inhibitor here and there. This means I need to add water (3-4gal)
once ever two months. Second the pump on the CB needs to be a little
larger and it cavitates at higher temps. (180'+). Here is my idea to
fix these problem and hopefully make the system better; have a semi-
pressurized system. Here is how it would work: Hot water would come
out of the CB and pumped through a 300k BTU flat plate heat exchanger
and go right back into the CB. Water in a closed loop pressurized (15-
20psi) system would run through the other side of the heat exchanger.
This water would still be treated (so I could use cast iron pumps)
and be pumped by another pump through the heat exchangers in the
house. This system would be auto filled with domestic water, just
like a pressurized boiler system. Here are some pros and cons:

Pros:
Water is under pressure so corrosion is at a minimum.
System will auto fill if water gets low.
Pumps will not cavitation.
Little to no air in the system. Auto air bleeders can be used.
After installing system should be Maintenance free.
CB water should last a year or more - like it should!

Cons:
Will cost over $500.
Will take a couple days to install.


Please give me your feed back.


Thanks.

 

[Husky137]

I'd say address the real issues.

My draft door never sticks, a little bit of lubrication twice a year fixes that. Never had to replace that fuse.

Never had a leak. You need to find out why you have multiples and recurring ones. Never had to add more water to my system and the pump doesn't cavitate at any temperature.

Sounds like your CB needs a little regular maintainence like scraping some creosote, stirring the ashes and adding some neutralizer to the ash bed.

 

[ericjeeper]

here are a few.

with the HX you will send 180 to it and might only flow away with 160 or so.. might have a better rub off but.. won't know til you try it.
Are your leaks from using copper female and male adapters?

 

[MS-310]

Ok..............I say NO! to the pressure.

First, How are you going to seal up the big fill hole in the top? Plus 15 to 20psi is alot to try to hold back with a rubber plug....

Next, You will void any warranty with the stove is you make it a pressure boiler.

Put a little big pump on it! How many feet are you going? How much head do you have. (dont be sick) What is the water running in to? HX HWH Pool????

Do ever make a NON pressure boiler in to a pressure boiler.....NOt safe.

 

[DWittenbreder]

pressurized wood boiler

not to hijack this thread, but does anyone know of a manufacturer of a owb than can be used with steam heat?

 

[MS-310]

not to hijack this thread, but does anyone know of a manufacturer of a owb than can be used with steam heat?[/QUOTE


You have steam heat or just hot water heat? Steam heat is very rare....Anyways any OWB will work for this...

Jack

 

[DWittenbreder]

steam heat

Yes I have old type steam heat (ie. clang of the pipes when heating up) I DO NOT have hot water heat or baseboard hot water . I am looking for a owb to add on to my existing natural gas boiler.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Big con, Homemade pressure system probably means your insurance carrier will run, not walk away from your policy and coverage.

Hav ta go, more later

 

[fireman31]

just a thought!

I don't know where you are located but where I am standard pallets bring $7-10 each. Sell some of those pallets and buy a pressurized boiler!

 

[rx7145]

I'd say address the real issues.

My draft door never sticks, a little bit of lubrication twice a year fixes that. Never had to replace that fuse.

Never had a leak. You need to find out why you have multiples and recurring ones. Never had to add more water to my system and the pump doesn't cavitate at any temperature.

Sounds like your CB needs a little regular maintainence like scraping some creosote, stirring the ashes and adding some neutralizer to the ash bed.

The door stuck because of creosote built up on the door when it was closed. Them when the temp got low the door could not open and blew the fuse. This happened three times then never happened again. I think it must have been because the stove was new and I was burning some green wood. I have burnt green wood after that but never have the problem again.

Well I installed the system so that might explain some of the leaks. They are all at theaded conections. Well sounds like if I get the leaks fixed I will not need to add any water that's good.

I'm running a Bell&Gossett PL36 pump, much bigger than a Taco 007. It does cavitate at higher temps (over 175). The taco never did but it did lock up and boil over the boiler.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[rx7145]

I don't know where you are located but where I am standard pallets bring $7-10 each. Sell some of those pallets and buy a pressurized boiler!

Strange I got all thoes pallets out of a dumpter. They are long gone now...

 

[rx7145]

Ok..............I say NO! to the pressure.

First, How are you going to seal up the big fill hole in the top? Plus 15 to 20psi is alot to try to hold back with a rubber plug....

Next, You will void any warranty with the stove is you make it a pressure boiler.

Put a little big pump on it! How many feet are you going? How much head do you have. (dont be sick) What is the water running in to? HX HWH Pool????

Do ever make a NON pressure boiler in to a pressure boiler.....NOt safe.

That's the beauty of this system, The boiler will not be pressurised just the lines.

I dont see how this would void the warranty.

About 140ft. I don't know how to measure head in a system. I'm guessing around 20ft.

I'm heating my house (1500sf) hot hotwater (50gal) and my shop (22x40).

 

[rx7145]

with the HX you will send 180 to it and might only flow away with 160 or so.. might have a better rub off but.. won't know til you try it.
Are your leaks from using copper female and male adapters?

True, the flat plate exchanger should work the best though.

Some of the leaks were, but I got rid of them because they leaked so bad.