Photos of tree bark damage

[Vicci]

Just needing some input. We planted several 10' tall Bradford flowering pears last spring. They did great all summer and fall, until I noticed some severe "buck rubs" on them. The trunks are so slim that I wrapped them in paper wrap for the winter, but upon unwrapping them this past spring I was shocked to see the damage. What can I do to help them? I'm assuming that the bumpy surface around the damage is callus, but is there something that I can use to protect the inner wood (I have Spectracide Pruning Sealer, but don't want to use it until someone with this type of knowledge tells me to). I just feel as though this needs to be protected. The damage does extend about halfway around the trees. They are still green-leaved and healthy, but I want them to thrive and become the beautiful mature trees which we planned for.

Here is photo #1 which shows two of the damaged trees in our back yard (no details, just their position and size)

Photo #2 shows a close-up of the damage on one of the trees (both suffered similar damage)

Photo #3 shows a tree in the front yard and its damage

Please, if anyone (or treeseer) has any comments, I would appreciate any help. THANKS!!! I don't know if I can physically go through the planting process again...

 

[Vicci]

One last photo of tree bark damage

I wasn't permitted to put this last one in my other post ("too many images...")

This is a photo of a Bradford. pear in the front yard, but in stead of buck rubs, this one has five deep, vertical splits in the bark. This is the only tree that has some signs of stress or disease. Several of the leaves (not shown) are turning dark brown starting at the tips. I sprayed with an all-purpose fungicide until the problem can be identified (anyone have any idea???) How can I save this tree? I'm assuming the splits will allow insects entrance. THANKS (yet again).

 

[begleytree]

shoot the deer
Wrap the trunks
-Ralph

 

[treeseer]

shoot the deer
Wrap the trunks
-Ralph

I agree, venison is tasty, and these trunks will be prone to cracking if not wrapped. The lumps you see are callus tissue and will continue to grow bark to cover the wounds.

Bigger issues seem to be plant placement. What kind of pears are these? Bradford? They'll get over 20' wide before they fall apart, and they seem to be sited close to large shrubs abd a stairway.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

What does wrapping do again? I though that science was pooh-poohed a long time ago. It just creates a damp environment for insects and fungi, along with reducing photosynthesis through the thin, recovering bark. Unless your talking about wrapping it with hardware cloth or chicken wire.

I heard something about mothballs discouraging deer.

 

[begleytree]

Vicci
I merged the two threads about this into one.
We seem to be discussing your one problem, but not seeing the other. Hopefully this will generate responses to all your questions.
-Ralph

 

[Vicci]

Vicci
I merged the two threads about this into one.
We seem to be discussing your one problem, but not seeing the other. Hopefully this will generate responses to all your questions.
-Ralph

Thanks, Ralph. I didn't know that you could merge 2 threads...

The flagstones in the first photo is actually the edges of a patio which is raised above the tree planting area (the site is sloped). The tree closest to it is 12' from the edge of the patio. And the other tree is 12' from an 8-year-old red Japanese maple (I have to get around to trimming off some of the lower branches-- they look like balls). That location may be a problem.

And, a correction, there are not Bradford pears. They are Cleveland pears (pyrus calleryana "Cleveland Select").

So, do I use a pruning sealer? Or wrap? Or leave as is?

Thanks for your help.

 

[treeseer]

So, do I use a pruning sealer? Or wrap? Or leave as is?

The sealer is a definite NO in this case, the wrap a definite Maybe if it is loose and allows airflow I think it may do some good. Less sun = less drying = less cracking = less decay. ? At least it would discourage Bambi's boyfriend from doing more damage.

Other than that, the usual tree care regimen; mulch, water, soiltest then fert spring and fall, keep your eye out for fireblight--how is the bradford in the front?--, etc.

 

[begleytree]

Vicci, you're welcome. remember, when you hit your limit per post with the pics, just submit what you have, then put the rest in as a reply to your origional post, like you're talking to yourself.
-------
For your question, I'd wrap them like Guy said, but with deer around, I'd probably advocate the 4 inch corrugated plastic leech line (with the holes or slits) allows ventilation, keeps out sun, fits loosely, and is tough enough to stand up to the deer. Hardest part is slicing it longways to facilitate installation. remember to remove it when its no longer necessary.
-Ralph

 

[Vicci]

Vicci, you're welcome. remember, when you hit your limit per post with the pics, just submit what you have, then put the rest in as a reply to your origional post, like you're talking to yourself.

Yes, I often talk to myself so this should be an easy "tip" to remember!

-------

For your question, I'd wrap them like Guy said, but with deer around, I'd probably advocate the 4 inch corrugated plastic leech line (with the holes or slits) allows ventilation, keeps out sun, fits loosely, and is tough enough to stand up to the deer. Hardest part is slicing it longways to facilitate installation. remember to remove it when its no longer necessary.
-Ralph

And where would I find leech line, please?

The sealer is a definite NO in this case

Thanks, I'll return it to Wal Mart. I thought that, with scientific advances being made in practically every field, there might be a synthetic "skin" which could be applied to the exposed wood that would allow
circulation while being a barrier to diseases, insects, sunscald, etc.

Other than that, the usual tree care regimen; mulch, water, soiltest then fert spring and fall, keep your eye out for fireblight--how is the bradford in the front?--, etc.

Will do. And the pear out front is still browning at the leaf tips. It wasn't damaged by the deer, but the bark is split for some reason. I've been spraying a general insecticide and fungicide in the splits when I'm applying them to other trees/plants. Is this okay, or should I wrap this trunk also, and leave it alone with the spraying?
Fireblight was a problem last summer on our crabapples, but I've kept it under control with a fixed copper spray this year. So far. Knock on (solid, problem-free) wood!

 

[Menchhofer]

A bar is "Irish Spring" bar soap hung from each tree should discourage deer. It seems to work well believe it or not.

 

[begleytree]

Vicci, leech line can be purchased at any home depot, lowes, tractor supply, 84 lumber ect. around here it runs $25 for 100ft. some stores sell it all the way down to 25ft lengths. I see it here installed from ground level to the first limbs, looks odd at first, but wonderously effective at stopping deer damage until they get big enough that the deer won't use them anyway, and will start using the lower limbs.
-Ralph

 

[Vicci]

A bar is "Irish Spring" bar soap hung from each tree should discourage deer. It seems to work well believe it or not.

I believe it. After the initial damage last fall I hung bars of "dial" soap and there was no more damage. It was amazing, especially since we live on 50+ acres and there are hungry deer everywhere!


And thanks (yet again) Ralph for the info on leech line.