I was wondering if anyone has tried the idea of passing a 2-3" dia. pipe through the firebox to heat air within the room?
pipe through the fire box to heat room air
- Thread starter woodchuckcanuck
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Nothing we haven't done to a 55 gal wood stove. We'll mote like a bunch of 1.5" pipes, but it all works about the same.
My Jotul has internal channels that air travels through to be heated.
But instead of passing that air into the room, that air enters the stove in a manner that increases combustion efficiency.
More heat from less wood and fewer emissions into the environment. No electricity used.
I've seen some of the older woodstoves modified to have heated secondary air induced into the firebox.
Just tossing this out there as you seem to be handy with metal fabrication and if you could perform one modification you may be able to do the other.
Wood stove fire boxes often are too cool for good combustion. Our Jotul actually has insulation on parts inside the firebox with the goal of improving combustion efficiency.
But instead of passing that air into the room, that air enters the stove in a manner that increases combustion efficiency.
More heat from less wood and fewer emissions into the environment. No electricity used.
I've seen some of the older woodstoves modified to have heated secondary air induced into the firebox.
Just tossing this out there as you seem to be handy with metal fabrication and if you could perform one modification you may be able to do the other.
Wood stove fire boxes often are too cool for good combustion. Our Jotul actually has insulation on parts inside the firebox with the goal of improving combustion efficiency.
Good idea del, but I don't think k he's talking about adding a secondary burn reactor.
Yes, I know.
I'm just pointing out that removing as much heat as possible from the fire box may have other consequences.
I have a friend who uses a Fisher Baby Bear to heat his small living space. He basically smolders wood 24/7. When he cleans ash out of his firebox he complains that everything is sticky including the door gasket area and the stickiness can loosen his stove door gasket.
He asked me what I do about that. My answer is that I do nothing and that the inside of my fire box is ash dry.
None that I've seen. My furnace is forced air like a gas or oil fired furnace. Never have creosote build up issues in the stack or fire box. He's just burning too low.
@Del_ . Yes,smoldering wood like your friend will leave you with creosote no matter how dry the wood is. No enough heat to combust the gases. Look at my pic in my earlier post. Even with the cooler air blowing trough the stove I don't get any gunk. My stove is damped back probably 14 hours a day. Mostly overnite with plenty of coals to get it fired back up.
This idea isn't for our house, it's for want of a means to heat the air in the kiln for drying firewood. The kiln right now is electric, and the cost is manageable but just looking to see if there's ways to lower the costs. Either supplement the air in the kiln (intake to stove from lower region of kiln's internal air space) and then the output would go back into the kiln at a higher level.
Or, put up a small structure to pre-heat the wood before going in the kiln.
Or both.
Or, put up a small structure to pre-heat the wood before going in the kiln.
Or both.
Read my post about my furnace. It's like any conventional forced air furnace, big squirl cage blower under it blowing cool air out around the fire box and into duct work. No reason it can't be done on a smaller scale with a heavy walled pipe.
Reactor Indeed!
This is exactly what the millman did, down the road. He keeps logs on our farm.
slabMan
ArboristSite Operative
A preheated coil for your room air inlet would be best and then insulate above and around the firebox with ceramic blanket above the baffle inside. Then if it is a free standing stove, insulate the ceiling and wall behind the stove to keep the heat in longer. Pre-heated gas/air is more combustable. Sometimes if you are not getting a good drafting of your chimney [pipe], you can insulate the walls of the chimney/pipe to keep the lining of the chimney hot ...and the hot air will pull the draft through for a more complete burn and reduction of creosote [given you are burning wood that is less than 20% moisture]--unseasoned/wet wood wont burn in any stove worth a ****, as you know. Burning cardboard each morning is a good thing to keep the lining clear of creosote. Getting rid of my old "air tight" insert for a high efficiency lopi was the best thing I did. I burn half the amount of wood and means I dont have to process as much and saving time is a good thing! Good luck to you!
How on earth did we get from adding a pipe as a heat exchanger to warm air in a greenhouse to secondary burn pipes? It's not even close to the topic the op had.
The fellow wants more heat in the room and is willing to do metal fabrication and modify his stove.
Increased efficiency puts more heat in the room.
Vs extracting more heat from the firebox of an already inefficiently burning 'smoke dragon'.
https://www.google.com/search?q=fis...ome..69i57.17057j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
hkstwn7
ArboristSite Lurker
The old All nighter stoves had pipes in the fire box leading out at the stove top. Mine is an All nighter and works great with the attached blower.
hkstwn7
ArboristSite Lurker
My old stove burns as clean as any of the new stoves with dry wood,clean chimney and correct draft settings.
No it doesn't.
It's an add on, currently heated by electric.
I'm gonna assume you just ypassed this post.
There's nothing about the wood furnace not being efficient, you went down a rabbit trail for no reason. His question was simple. Can I add a pipe to heat air to a wood stove to supplement the ELECTRIC heater in my kiln?
Keep up Del, your slipping mate. Discuss secondary burn set up after we/he figures out how to deliver that heat where it's needed. Not like he's gonna sit the wood stove in the kiln.
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I once had a wood stove in one end of the basement and to get heat where I wanted it I built a tin box hood over the whole thing and treated it like ductwork. Connected a used old furnace fan from there to round ducting pipe to blow the heat directly to where I wanted it at the other end of the house.
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