Please explain this type of cut

[BryanEx]

I am not a pro tree guy but am experienced in managing my woodlot for maple syrup production and want to ask about the type of cut used on this poplar. I had a healthy 40ft poplar on the edge of my lawn that had curved toward the open sunlight and the power line for my house. It was not over the power line or at risk of damaging anything but would only get worse as time went on so I wanted it removed. To put it on the ground would require droping it to the side of it's natural lean at about 45 degrees to miss the power line. I was 95% sure I could do it which means I am not qualified to do it and hired a tree service. I had asked them to just drop it and leave everything behind which was done while I was not home. Tree was cut as one piece and I don't know if a side tie was used. At first I though the stump had been notched for use with a tree jack but when I fit the pieces together there was no space for that. It looks like a straight cut was done of both sides, a tiny notch on the front, then vertical plunge cuts each side. Finally a plunge cut from the back to release it. How does this cut control the direction of a side leaning tree? I would think the trunk would be at risk of splitting if this cut had side weight on it to one side or the other.

 

[old CB]

That is a novelty cut, popular in some quarters but unnecessary for anyone proficient at his trade. Like certain other novelty cuts it looks cool. But unnecessary. It might be called a key-slot or some such.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Also known as a tongue and groove. It has its uses.

 

[67L36Driver]

I have a medium size pin oak that will need that style of cut.

It’s 17” DBH and only eight foot from my roof overhang. It will extend across the street unless topped first.

 

[arathol]

 

[Yarz]

Also known as a tongue and groove. It has its uses.

I have a medium size pin oak that will need that style of cut.

Can someone explain the conditions in which this cut would be useful/needed?
I always thought it was just for fun - but maybe I've missed an opportunity to fell a tree better/more safely...

 

[TheJollyLogger]

If you look at the 2 videos, the top one I have used on dead trees to prevent them from rolling down a side slope when I didn't think the hinge would hold even with an open face notch.

The second video shows an effective way to set a wedge in a small diameter tree. I use that a lot.

 

[BryanEx]

If you look at the 2 videos, the top one I have used on dead trees to prevent them from rolling down a side slope when I didn't think the hinge would hold even with an open face notch.

The second video shows an effective way to set a wedge in a small diameter tree. I use that a lot.

Thanks for the replies. Now that I know what it's called I have been able to dig up lots more info on this type of cut but still not really clear why it was their choice for this tree. Wish I had taken a before photo but never thought of it. I was just expecting to find three pieces on the lawn rather than the entire tree intact.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I have yet to need something like this and still question it's uses in 99.9% of tree felling.

The only time I can really think of this being useful is as said above on a dead stick falling across a sidehill and you can't have it rolling down the hill. Even then, if there was something down there I didn't want destroyed, I would tie the tree off to a line and just fall the thing.

Most likely, they were just having fun. They watched a video last week on that cut sequence and decided to try it out. Did that tree NEED that cut sequence? Doesn't sound like it at all.

Some people just like to overcomplicate things, but they also might have just been enjoying themselves while doing their job, which is fine too as long as they don't damage anything.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

If you notice, they also did it backwards, the tongue should be on the stem, the groove on the stump.

 

[BryanEx]

Looking at the bark I think I had it sitting upside down for the photo.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I guess to wrap this up, yes, this a valid specialty cut, with limited uses, mostly in an urban arborist situation... dropping a tree down the side if a house through a 3 foot gate where you absolutely cannot risk the stem breaking the hinge and rolling left or right... and yes, I practiced that cut when it wasn't necessary multiple times before I put it to use in a situation where it mattered. Probably the case here. They didn't have to, but it was a good place to hone their skills.

 

[Yarz]

If you look at the 2 videos, the top one I have used on dead trees to prevent them from rolling down a side slope when I didn't think the hinge would hold even with an open face notch.

The second video shows an effective way to set a wedge in a small diameter tree. I use that a lot.

Thanks!
I was thinking the open face would keep it from rolling - but I didn't consider the hinge breaking completely.
And I didn't think about the smaller trees because I typically put a rope in vs wedging.

I appreciate the input!

 

[ATH]

I learned it for trees too small to get a wedge in.

I have also seen the same cut used when bucking logs laying on a hillside. Cutting a tongue and groove in those will keep the log attached to the top until the skidder pulls it at which point it will snap...but since it is on the skidder, it won't roll do the hill.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

It's kind of like a Siswheel... only used it a handful of times, but it was nice to have...

 

[BryanEx]

... dropping a tree down the side if a house through a 3 foot gate where you absolutely cannot risk the stem breaking the hinge and rolling left or right... and yes, I practiced that cut when it wasn't necessary multiple times before I put it to use in a situation where it mattered. Probably the case here. They didn't have to, but it was a good place to hone their skills.

That is exactly right. The arborist was back at my place this morning so I made the point to ask about the cut. It was done for practice for times when the drop zone is very precise. It wasn't due to the mild lean of the tree.

 

[Oldtoolsnewproblems]

Great thread, I had had similar questions when I see this crop up on YouTube from time to time. From what I see, the only time you'd really need/want to use it is when you don't want it rolling, OR the tree is too thin to set a wedge and easily finish the cut around the wedge. Offset gives you space to work, yes?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

If you look at the videos Arathol posted, although both are called tongue and groove, they are actually 2 different cuts with 2 different purposes. The top one is to keep the butt from rolling, the bottom is to set a wedge in a small diameter tree.

 

[Oldtoolsnewproblems]

Yeah I didn't watch the second video until after posting, and was very confused for a second. Clearly two different operator for different uses. I'd only ever seen the first one before. Makes even more sense now.

Also I feel like if you used this to stop a small tree from twisting on the way down, it would just splinter out the trunk if there was any real load, like any more than a hinge could just normally take