mantis
ArboristSite Guru
Ok Please explain the differance between an outboard and inboard clutch.And how do you tell?Thanks guys
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Ok Please explain the differance between an outboard and inboard clutch.And how do you tell?Thanks guys
OK, here you go ...
I'll talk down to you only if you're in a hole
Outboard clutch has the clutch drum outside the chain when you remove the drive cover. Inboard clutch has the clutch drum behind the chain when the cover comes off.
I'll talk down to you only if you're in a hole
Outboard clutch has the clutch drum outside the chain when you remove the drive cover. Inboard clutch has the clutch drum behind the chain when the cover comes off.
gink595
Addicted to ArboristSite
A inboard clutch is inside of the case of the chainsaw, an outboard is on the outside of the crank and the chain drives between the case and the clutch, whereas an inboard is driven on the outer of the clutch drive. How do you tell a difference? flip em over and look you will notice it right away. I personally think the outboards are a pain.
Bermie
Addicted to ArboristSite
When you take the cover and bar and chain off:
Inboard:
you will see the sprocket (spur or rim) and the bell housing that covers the clutch. Everything (except the sprocket) is tucked into the power unit casing. To see the actual clutch you have to remove the sprocket and bell housing.
Outboard:
you will see the clutch shoes and springs, and behind that, the sprocket. The whole lot projects out from the power unit casing.
Or:
Stihl - all inboard (except the 020/200)
any other exceptions?
Also outboard clutch saws have the chainbrake mechanism built into the outside cover (the one you take off to get the bar and chain off)
Inboard:
you will see the sprocket (spur or rim) and the bell housing that covers the clutch. Everything (except the sprocket) is tucked into the power unit casing. To see the actual clutch you have to remove the sprocket and bell housing.
Outboard:
you will see the clutch shoes and springs, and behind that, the sprocket. The whole lot projects out from the power unit casing.
Or:
Stihl - all inboard (except the 020/200)
any other exceptions?
Also outboard clutch saws have the chainbrake mechanism built into the outside cover (the one you take off to get the bar and chain off)
The simple answer... If you're wondering which one you have, do this:
Take the clutch cover off and look at the sprocket/clutch. If you have to take the clutch off to get the sprocket off it's an outboard, if you can take the sprocket off without taking off the clutch, it's an inboard.
Does that help?
Take the clutch cover off and look at the sprocket/clutch. If you have to take the clutch off to get the sprocket off it's an outboard, if you can take the sprocket off without taking off the clutch, it's an inboard.
Does that help?
gink595
Addicted to ArboristSite
Only diffrence between the ms260 and the 346xp...
Thats my biggist grip about the 346xp...Outboard clutch...Just have to make sure the chain is seated good in the sprocket ..The 260 pro you can tell right off,,but the 346xp gotta look under,,and feel,pull the chain and make sure it's seated good..Not a big issue with me workin on the old Mcc's,,but I enjoy the inboards alot better...
Thats my biggist grip about the 346xp...Outboard clutch...Just have to make sure the chain is seated good in the sprocket ..The 260 pro you can tell right off,,but the 346xp gotta look under,,and feel,pull the chain and make sure it's seated good..Not a big issue with me workin on the old Mcc's,,but I enjoy the inboards alot better...
011's
Most of the OLD saws have outboard.. I'm not sure when they started with inboard...
Outboard:
I agree with you. It's also part of why it's so prone to falling over with just that much more weight hanging off the clutch side. On the contrary, I've seen some say that it contributes to why it handles like it does though.
mantis
ArboristSite Guru
Ok That is what I thought.Now isn't my 55 Rancer a outboard & my 385XP an inboard?
So true...
I didnt really think about it,,but the 346xp handles so well...Ballanced in a cut,,and full throttle...Like I said the outboard clutch is kinda a none issue with me,,,but for people that isnt used to that kinda setup like the Stihl's it might be a pain in the butt to them...
I didnt really think about it,,but the 346xp handles so well...Ballanced in a cut,,and full throttle...Like I said the outboard clutch is kinda a none issue with me,,,but for people that isnt used to that kinda setup like the Stihl's it might be a pain in the butt to them...
Next question is "Why" - inboard or outboard?
Of course the inboard make changing the chain so much easier, why would anyone make an outboard?
The obvious answer is to reduce the load on the crankshaft and bearing. The further out you apply the load (place the sprocket) the greater the load will be on the shaft and bearing. If you have a big, beefy shaft and bearing, no problem with the inboard clutch.
The old 80cc McCullochs are all set up with the inboard clutch. The higher power saws and gear drives are outboard. You really do have to adopt a completely different technique to remove and install a chain on those old direct drive saws.
Mark
Of course the inboard make changing the chain so much easier, why would anyone make an outboard?
The obvious answer is to reduce the load on the crankshaft and bearing. The further out you apply the load (place the sprocket) the greater the load will be on the shaft and bearing. If you have a big, beefy shaft and bearing, no problem with the inboard clutch.
The old 80cc McCullochs are all set up with the inboard clutch. The higher power saws and gear drives are outboard. You really do have to adopt a completely different technique to remove and install a chain on those old direct drive saws.
Mark
Ahhh,,yes.Question for Mark.........
Mark,,,maybe you can help me out on this question I been wondering about too...All the Mcc's I ever seen had a outboard clutch...Back then so many years ago was it speed or torque that they was looking for ??
Times have changed from the old Mcc's in the big wood from that time frame...Mcc came out with the BP1 in the early 60's...Was they starting to look for speed then???
Mark,,,maybe you can help me out on this question I been wondering about too...All the Mcc's I ever seen had a outboard clutch...Back then so many years ago was it speed or torque that they was looking for ??
Times have changed from the old Mcc's in the big wood from that time frame...Mcc came out with the BP1 in the early 60's...Was they starting to look for speed then???
I was wrong!
I got to thinking about this and realized the 80cc McCulloch and related saws (1-40's, 1-50's, 200/300/400/500) were indeed outboard clutch. The difference was the space around the clutch; you could slip the chain off the saw listed above without making a lot of extra effort and most of the time they were spur type sprockets so changing a chain was very simple.
The bigger direct drive saws i.e. 700 family, CP and SP saws were so tight around the clutch drum you have to thread the chain back through the loop handle and swing the whole chain 90° to slip it out past the clutch. Many of these are fit with rim type sprockets so changing a chain is a real challenge.
The next generation of 10 Series saws were also outboard clutch.
All of the McCulloch saws were traditionally pushed pretty hard to make them cut faster, due in part to the relatively low chain speed. This puts a lot more pull on the crankshaft and bearing on the PTO side and using the outboard clutch arrangement reduces the load.
O.K. I was wrong, but I admit it right away...
Regarding the BP-1, although the engine was high speed for the day (10,000 RPM possible) the final drive was through a bevel gear set, according to Acres site either 2:1 or 2.9:1 ratio so the chain speed was still pretty low. I think Robert P McCulloch was just one of those near genius kinds of guys and thought a lot more about changes and improvements and sometimes got ahead of the execution.
Mark
I got to thinking about this and realized the 80cc McCulloch and related saws (1-40's, 1-50's, 200/300/400/500) were indeed outboard clutch. The difference was the space around the clutch; you could slip the chain off the saw listed above without making a lot of extra effort and most of the time they were spur type sprockets so changing a chain was very simple.
The bigger direct drive saws i.e. 700 family, CP and SP saws were so tight around the clutch drum you have to thread the chain back through the loop handle and swing the whole chain 90° to slip it out past the clutch. Many of these are fit with rim type sprockets so changing a chain is a real challenge.
The next generation of 10 Series saws were also outboard clutch.
All of the McCulloch saws were traditionally pushed pretty hard to make them cut faster, due in part to the relatively low chain speed. This puts a lot more pull on the crankshaft and bearing on the PTO side and using the outboard clutch arrangement reduces the load.
O.K. I was wrong, but I admit it right away...
Regarding the BP-1, although the engine was high speed for the day (10,000 RPM possible) the final drive was through a bevel gear set, according to Acres site either 2:1 or 2.9:1 ratio so the chain speed was still pretty low. I think Robert P McCulloch was just one of those near genius kinds of guys and thought a lot more about changes and improvements and sometimes got ahead of the execution.
Mark
mantis
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks Now I can rest.This was bugging me for sometime,because someone out here said that the 385 was not an inboard,and I was confused.You guys cleared it up for me tho
All of the old Stihl 070s, 090s and Contras were outboard. I'm guessing that it was a casting and design decision. Trying to shove that huge clutch inboard would be a bit of a problem, and it is another precision recess that has to be machined out. I find changing the chain a real pain on an outboard, particularly if you are wrestling with a big bar.
I don't know of any Stihls with outboard, and a chainbrake, except the 009, and the brake on that is a dog's breakfast.
I don't know of any Stihls with outboard, and a chainbrake, except the 009, and the brake on that is a dog's breakfast.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's all in what you get used to.
First saw I ever owned with an inboard was my 029 Super.
I think cooling is generally better on outboard, but inboard is less prone to gumming up with sawdust and oil, dirt, chips etc.
First saw I ever owned with an inboard was my 029 Super.
I think cooling is generally better on outboard, but inboard is less prone to gumming up with sawdust and oil, dirt, chips etc.
gink595
Addicted to ArboristSite
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