Poulan 3400 CV

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djd_201

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It's my first time here on the forum, so I hope I am in the right thread for the subject content. We just purchased a used 3400 CounterVibe Poulan 20" chain saw, and its in really good shape. Problem is. I can't keep it running. I took it to a local shop which stays pretty busy (or I would have just left it for repairs) and they said it would need either a gas filter, filter for the carb or a carb rebuild @ $30 + kit. They noticed the high speed and low speed mixture needles were backed out way too far, and of course it wouldn't stay running or run at high speed with them set properly OR all turned out to the extreme. Excuse all the long-windedness but I am trying to included any info that I can to help with the diagnosis.

So my question is, any tips on getting to, replacing the gas filters? Any words of wisdom and wit on checking for possible tweaks and fixes? Any help would be appreciated.

I don't have a comlete parts list but found 'some' info for the saw on Poulan's part list site. They don't have a manual for it, but I found some on Ebay for the 3400 and 3700. No extensive break down or R&R diagrams for a newbie like me. I am 50 years old and have 'some' degree of mechanical knowledge, but I am no carb man fer sure.

Thanks in advance.

Drew in Missouri
 
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It's a used poulan what did you expect

That saw sells new out of the box at Wal mart for about 100 dollars. Even as an occasional use saw it will crap out and give you problems within a year. I've killed them in as little as 3 months just clearing land. Throw the saw away and get a Stihl, or Husky.
 
Welcome to AS, DJD_201.

The Poulan 3400 is not a cheap $100 saw. It's a 56 cc saw with plenty of guts for taking care of most of the jobs us weekenders get ourselves into. I ran a Poulan 3450 for a number of years, and even though I became a Stihl snob like so many here I took the time to rebuild the old 3450 and still use it from time to time. I like it a lot.

The gas filter is down in the tank. Fish out the gas line with a coathanger and replacing it is a snap.

If it were me, I'd ask the guys at the saw shop to run a leak down test before I did anything else to make sure the crank seals are still in good shape. The fact the previous owner had the jets turned out so far makes me suspicious that he may have been chasing an air leak somewhere.

Assuming the seals are good, and the compression is good as well, a carb kit, new fuel lines (including the impulse line), and a fuel filter should get that old saw running well enough to put a smile on your face.

Here's a link to OrderTree.com - http://www.ordertree.com/ARI.aspx?Mfg=75&Model=3400 Gas Saw&AFID=7 - that may help you locate needed parts.

Also, you might consider posting this down on the Chainsaw forum. There are some real techs there. I'm just a homeowner hack. :)
 
carb/impulse line

If you use the search button at the top of this page and type in carb repair you should get a few threads that will help you out. The impulse line has a crack in it or the filter is clogged would be my guess. Then if the saw is more than ten years old the diaphram in the carb could be too stiff and needs to be replaced would be the next thing to look at. They are an easy fix. First though I'd go to the top of the page and click on the search and type carb in the box.
 
DJD, I'll echo what Log Splitter and Geofore said. I like the IPLs at outdoordistributors. http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/poulan/gas-saws/3400.pdf I remember someone having a 3400 that the mounting screws for the carb would vibrate loose and cause an air leak. There are a lot of good threads under the search for '3400 carb'.
 
thanks

geofore

scottr thanks for the link on the carb parts...I'll have to remember the mounting screws to check them

logsplitter..thanks for the bump up on the worth of the saw

I've seen some good comments on the 3400 and 3700 out of pros
I am a newbie on this stuff but learning quick... I actually didn't realize I wasn't in the chain saw forum...smiling

I got the filter out of the gas tank on this Poulan and Jimminie Christmas...its a clogged up'd mess...these girls work off of an impulse pump too? Is that what your saying? Is there a filter screen in the carb behind the plate?

I am going to replace the filter from the tank (had to cut the fuel line short of the filter) then go for seeing if it runs proper...


please keep giving me tips...I'm the one that will have to use it...I am the one that will appreciate the wisdom
 
Ps:

I finally saw the chain saw forum way down there after I posted last...

I will try to copy with out confusion and move this thread down there if it is okay

for some of us old timers

(I'm only but a great grey haired 50)

here's a link just for the fun of it

http://djd2012.tripod.com/id15.html

thanks again for the tips...

I know this old girl (the 3400) will run and cut with your help

I have to remember in the back of my mind

to be careful with it once its healthy

Thanks again in advance

Drew:chainsawguy:
 
That's a nice looking lawn tractor you've restored djd. Good work!

As for your saw, the carb has a screen, it's included in the kit.

You're in good hands with Scottr, he helped me a lot when I rebuilt my 3450.

Be sure to post back and let us know how she's running. Take some pictures, we like pictures.

Remember, you're not done until you mod the muffler. :)
 
Carb rebuild complete

We had the carburetor rebuilt at a local shop. After replacing the fuel line and filter, it was a mandatory fix. Problem is that although it ran fine at the shop when he started it up for me, I can't get it to start at home (sheeesh!) :chainsaw: I think one problem is that the trigger lock on the handle doesn't lock in a wide open position and its to big of a saw to one hand start while holding handle, trigger, lock and saw. So I need to take the handle apart and see what gives there.

If I can get some help from you all just a bit more.

Does this saw come with an automatic oiler? If so it doesn't work. It has a manual but you have to pump the crude out of it (hehah) to get any sprayat all. Does anyone have a diagram of the inner workings for a Poulan 3400CV behind the blade for going into the pump parts and that way maybe I can understand it a bit more?

Thanks in advance.
 
We had the carburetor rebuilt at a local shop. After replacing the fuel line and filter, it was a mandatory fix. Problem is that although it ran fine at the shop when he started it up for me, I can't get it to start at home (sheeesh!) :chainsaw: I think one problem is that the trigger lock on the handle doesn't lock in a wide open position and its to big of a saw to one hand start while holding handle, trigger, lock and saw. So I need to take the handle apart and see what gives there.

If I can get some help from you all just a bit more.

Does this saw come with an automatic oiler? If so it doesn't work. It has a manual but you have to pump the crude out of it (hehah) to get any sprayat all. Does anyone have a diagram of the inner workings for a Poulan 3400CV behind the blade for going into the pump parts and that way maybe I can understand it a bit more?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, it has an automatic oiler. The parts layout is on page 19 of the IPL that I linked in post#5.
 
I'm pretty much lost on working with these saws. I found that diagram, thanks ScottR. I am going to try and be wise on this, check it out and see what's all involved. If all else fails, take it back to the shop. The old boy there is kind and not real expensive ($34 on the carb rebuild and only $10 to put the line and filter on). So if it looks as confusing as the parts diagram :confused: I may just let him go for it. We only have a total of $151 in it and it ran good at the shop, strong and healthy with only the trigger/start problem evident. He said it is similar to the Husqavarnahs (did I spell that right?) and is a good quality saw that probably sold for $300-$400 new in its day. It will undoubtedly, hopefully see many more good days.
 
Oil Screen?

ScottR;

Notice now that I am from Missourah, living in the central part of the state, but originally from southern parts under Joplin in Jasper county, Spring City as in country. Thus and therefore, I am naturally heridtarily 'dense'. smiles

So in answer to your question, 'not no'...beck heck no, reckon not!'

laughing

I should have thought of something like that, but I am not 'edjumacted' on what you guys think of relaxed and natural. I appreciate the help and will check it out tomorrow. I had the saw up and running and cutting today, but alas the wood started smoking a bit no matter how much I pumped the oiler. It seemed like a new chain but now I wonder if I have dulled it. Forgive my ignorance on such things and please have the patience as towards a kindergarten newbie...:newbie:
 
Drew, the picture on page 19 of the IPL and the discription of the parts (items 31,32,and 33)on page 20 are not the best but I'll bet that there is a screen or a wound wire type spring that is used as an oil filter so that sawdust and dirt does not get pulled into the pump. If you look at the top plate of the cutter on your chain do you see black burnt sap ?
 
whoops ?

:clap:

I was about to take this old girl back to the shop...

but since "Ma" wasn't using it...:dizzy:

I decided to playwith it a bit...

read what you spoke about ScottR...

there wasn't any black plaque on the top of the rib on the saw blade and I sorta understood what you meant about it...smoking at first off the blade when it was cutting, and going slow

I did soemtun' maybe stupid, latched the air hose up to it, inside my thumb and forefinger and gave it a small blast at the oil tank...not much mind you...just a tiny squirt...

mixed a bit of Lucas Foam with 30W and just pumped the 'hills' out of it...

low and behold

its not only squirting oil off the manual thumb lever...but every onct' in a while

almost runs auto oil? go figger

borrowed an actual real time blade sharpener from a friend and she is one-jerk starting and cutting fairly well

you guys are great!!!

End costs so far....$154
 
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Drew, this is from the 3400 Operators Manual. "Between 30*F and 0*F, use a mixture of 95% bar and chain lube and 5% either kerosene or #1 diesel fuel. Below 0*F operation, increase the kerosene or diesel fuel to 10%." It might be a good idea to rinse out the oil tank with kerosene or diesel fuel.
 
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