paragon
New Member
Where is the "reed valve"? How do I check it?
Poulan carburetor adjustment
- Thread starter Munchausen
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Where is the "reed valve"? How do I check it?
Paragon , what's the model number of your saw ?
Elmore
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd bet that it is piston ported and the max RPM is about 12,500.
PES+
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yup no reed
Piston ported....though I do not recall ever seeing a 1500 woodshark. Can you double check the model number?
If it is a 1975 woodshark it depends on which carb it has if a kit is available. Poulans answer is to sell you a whole carb for around 25 bucks.
Piston ported....though I do not recall ever seeing a 1500 woodshark. Can you double check the model number?
If it is a 1975 woodshark it depends on which carb it has if a kit is available. Poulans answer is to sell you a whole carb for around 25 bucks.
Elmore
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe a PoulanPRO model 210. 36cc and 12,600 RPM, free speed
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...3437411440f1424088256f7e0015412d?OpenDocument
Or a Poulan model 2250, piston ported
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...3437411440f1424088256f7e0015412d?OpenDocument
My guess is that it is one of these. If bar size is a good indication then I would say it is a 210. Regardless I think that they are both piston ported saws and if you clean your air filter well, fill the tank with fuel, warm it up at idle (if it will) for 3 minutes you can adjust the carburetor to turn up to about 12,600. I have a grey Craftsman, given to me in '97, that I think is one of these. It came with a 16" bar so maybe it is the 2250. It never seemed to run real well until I came to ArboristSite. I took the limiter caps off and adjusted it by ear...leaning it out till it screams then back counterclockwise until it just blubbered or 4-stroked a bit. I haven't used a tach on it yet but I will soon. When I adjusted my blue Dolmar 111i by ear, then put a tack on it, it was running just a tad fast so I can appreciate a tach to fine tune it accurately. Make sure that you have springs on those adjuster screws. If not you might need to reinstall the caps to keep the screws from vibrating out of adjustment. I know what you mean about the folks at Poulan...but if you keep screaming at them long enough and calling often enough you might get some answers. The definitive answer that I recently received about a carb came from the people at Walbro. Poulan gave me different, incomplete and inaccurate answers.
Compared to my German saw the response, when adjusting the high screw, on the Poulan was a lot slower therefore more difficult but it can be done and now this little saw cuts real well.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...3437411440f1424088256f7e0015412d?OpenDocument
Or a Poulan model 2250, piston ported
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...3437411440f1424088256f7e0015412d?OpenDocument
My guess is that it is one of these. If bar size is a good indication then I would say it is a 210. Regardless I think that they are both piston ported saws and if you clean your air filter well, fill the tank with fuel, warm it up at idle (if it will) for 3 minutes you can adjust the carburetor to turn up to about 12,600. I have a grey Craftsman, given to me in '97, that I think is one of these. It came with a 16" bar so maybe it is the 2250. It never seemed to run real well until I came to ArboristSite. I took the limiter caps off and adjusted it by ear...leaning it out till it screams then back counterclockwise until it just blubbered or 4-stroked a bit. I haven't used a tach on it yet but I will soon. When I adjusted my blue Dolmar 111i by ear, then put a tack on it, it was running just a tad fast so I can appreciate a tach to fine tune it accurately. Make sure that you have springs on those adjuster screws. If not you might need to reinstall the caps to keep the screws from vibrating out of adjustment. I know what you mean about the folks at Poulan...but if you keep screaming at them long enough and calling often enough you might get some answers. The definitive answer that I recently received about a carb came from the people at Walbro. Poulan gave me different, incomplete and inaccurate answers.
Compared to my German saw the response, when adjusting the high screw, on the Poulan was a lot slower therefore more difficult but it can be done and now this little saw cuts real well.
paragon
New Member
It is a Poulan 221LE Pro - 40 cc. My problem is, since I moved to high country (9,400 ft) when it gets good and warm (after cutting wood for about 1/2 hr) it runs a little flaky and won't start if it sets without running for a few minutes. Then I have to wait a long time for it to completely cool down. I made a tool for adjusting the high/low and at about 1 turn open on each it still does the same thing.
No reed valve
Paragon , the 1 turn out from lightly seated is to get the saw to run then it is necessary to fine tune . I would guess that it is set rich . The IPL shows that your saw has the newer restricted muffler . Have you checked the screen on the back of the muffler ?http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/POULAN-PRO/gas-saws/pp221-le.pdf
Paragon , the 1 turn out from lightly seated is to get the saw to run then it is necessary to fine tune . I would guess that it is set rich . The IPL shows that your saw has the newer restricted muffler . Have you checked the screen on the back of the muffler ?http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/POULAN-PRO/gas-saws/pp221-le.pdf
paragon
New Member
Scott:
Engine cooling is reduced with the thin air at 9,400 ft, so I'm thinking it should be a little on the rich side. I will try leaning it a little, but I doubt that is what is making it not start when warm after setting a while. I checked the spark arrestor screen, and it was fine, thanks. Someone said it could be a problem with the fuel tank vent. I guess I'll look into that. I have noticed after running a while there is pressure in the fuel tank, which doesn't seem right. Do you know where the "reed valve" is and how I'd check it? Any idea if that could cause this?
Engine cooling is reduced with the thin air at 9,400 ft, so I'm thinking it should be a little on the rich side. I will try leaning it a little, but I doubt that is what is making it not start when warm after setting a while. I checked the spark arrestor screen, and it was fine, thanks. Someone said it could be a problem with the fuel tank vent. I guess I'll look into that. I have noticed after running a while there is pressure in the fuel tank, which doesn't seem right. Do you know where the "reed valve" is and how I'd check it? Any idea if that could cause this?
Paragon , your PP221LE does not have a reed valve . My previous post was titled no reed valve . Your saw also has has the same gas tank cap as my PP220 and it is a pressurized gas tank . Sometimes the pressure will spew out the check ball that is visable in the center of the gas cap and it will spew when you open the cap to refill . I've had my PP220 for 3.5 years and it was difficult to start hot before I opened up the muffler outlet but pushing the primer bulb a couple times and using the fast idle position on the choke lever should help . My saw looks the same but has the black muffler with the rear outlet where yours has the silver muffler that I believe has more internal restrictions . The IPL that is in my previous post does not show the PP221LE muffler internal structure . I think it is a cat muffler .
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cheap tool
My Poulan PP4218avx has carburetor screws, but they are splined....that is, they have longitudinal ribs and they are buried pretty well under the pretty plastic. There are access holes however, marked H and L. Yeah, there's a special tool, but if you buy a piece of clear plastic tubing at the hardware store (about an inch or two will do), the correct size will fit perfectly over the splined screws, and the other end of your little piece of tubing will fit perfectly over a suitable small phillips screwdriver. Have fun... costs about a dime or so. Hyakunen
My Poulan PP4218avx has carburetor screws, but they are splined....that is, they have longitudinal ribs and they are buried pretty well under the pretty plastic. There are access holes however, marked H and L. Yeah, there's a special tool, but if you buy a piece of clear plastic tubing at the hardware store (about an inch or two will do), the correct size will fit perfectly over the splined screws, and the other end of your little piece of tubing will fit perfectly over a suitable small phillips screwdriver. Have fun... costs about a dime or so. Hyakunen
Poulan/snapper carb adjust
can any of ya all tell me initial carb settings for a snapper model s1838 saw?
Poulan made it,has them funky screws with no slots for screw driver,but 3 minutes with my dremel,and cutting wheel cured that.Now I need initial setting for high,and low jets,as somebody worked on it,before I got it,and screwed with carb.
can any of ya all tell me initial carb settings for a snapper model s1838 saw?
Poulan made it,has them funky screws with no slots for screw driver,but 3 minutes with my dremel,and cutting wheel cured that.Now I need initial setting for high,and low jets,as somebody worked on it,before I got it,and screwed with carb.
JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
try 1 turn out for each, no more that 1 1/2. That is only to get it running, then it is important to fine tune it or it will not last very long. Adjust H screw while running at wide open throttle, find where it runs the fastest, then richen it (counterclockwise) until it just starts to slow down some. Adjust L screw at idle for smoothness, give it full throttle it should not stumble, if it does turn L screw a touch counterclockwise, repeat...
mrinds
ArboristSite Member
poulan pro 42cc
went through the paces regarding the carb settings, start off 1/whole turn out, on each. set the low quarter turn at a time. set the high full throttle in between spitting and the running too fast. Still, when I tip the saw or give it throttle it wants to quit like its choking. any ideas?? Any help greatly appreciated. Mike/ Note that compression is only 100
went through the paces regarding the carb settings, start off 1/whole turn out, on each. set the low quarter turn at a time. set the high full throttle in between spitting and the running too fast. Still, when I tip the saw or give it throttle it wants to quit like its choking. any ideas?? Any help greatly appreciated. Mike/ Note that compression is only 100
nmurph
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two ideas; its a poulan pro and it only has 100psi compression (too low for most saws to run correctly).
KRP
ArboristSite Operative
?
The OP started this thread on 8/31/2002. Hey MRINDS I suggest you start a new thread including a model number of your Poulan. You will get all the accurate help you need.
The OP started this thread on 8/31/2002. Hey MRINDS I suggest you start a new thread including a model number of your Poulan. You will get all the accurate help you need.
mrinds
ArboristSite Member
Nmurph, I think you are correct. The saw itself is junk, furthermore since it's compression is so low. I'll never get it to run idle and cut in it's present comdition. Thx for the thought.
