Quick 020T question

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BigUglySquirrel

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Hey guys,

My 020T is a great saw. love it. But...it's bogs down occasionaly when revving and you have to ease into the throttle till it revs up and straightens out. It's very similar to a quad/dirtbike "loading up" because the jetting is too fat. Only thing is, I don't think that the 020T has a main or pilot jet I can step down. Any suggestions? It's a later model saw. About a year or two before they went to the "toolless" filler caps. Doesn't have a ton of hours on it, filter stays cleaned out. Stays dry in foul weather. Always use fresh 92 octane/Stihl hi-perf. mix. I've heard talk of the impulse tube being replaced on these saws as part of the yearly tune-up work....mine is the original. Don't know if it matters cause I'm not for certain what it is....clear me up there? Thanks guys! Oh! Also....what is the final verdict on modding the muffler on this saw and what exactly do I need to do to accomplish this? Thanks!!!
 
Sounds like it's a tad rich on the low speed jet. These are not dirt bikes, you do not change jets to adjust them. The jets are adjustable with a small screwdriver. About a jillion posts on carb adjustment here.

The only mod I've done on my 200T's is to pull out and throw away the muffler spark screen insert. Lookit the muffler on the side of your saw. See the torx head screw in the middle of the muffler? Remove it and pull out the screen cartridge held in by that screw. Throw the screen away and then re-adjust the carb.
 
Sound like it's slightly LEAN on the L jet - just richen it up a tad (counter clockwise), then turn up the LA screw to compensate so it idles faster again.

The impulse hose is just a piece of fuel line routed though the cover from the cylinder base to the carb backing plate - it gets pinched or flattened. Replace it and drill out the hole where it goes though the cover with a 1/4 inch drill.
 
lean?

Not to ridicule, but what makes you say it's too lean? It comes on fine after it gets past it's stumble. If it was too lean on the LS screw wouldn't it come on hard and then flatten off? I'm not saying that I think you're wrong, it's just backwards from the thinking that I'm used to and I'm wanting to get it sorted out. Obviously if I knew for certain what I was doing I wouldn't ask. :) Skwerl said it best, "These aren't dirtbikes." Does any of this make any sense? :help:
 
BigUglySquirrel said:
Not to ridicule, but what makes you say it's too lean? It comes on fine after it gets past it's stumble. If it was too lean on the LS screw wouldn't it come on hard and then flatten off? I'm not saying that I think you're wrong, it's just backwards from the thinking that I'm used to and I'm wanting to get it sorted out. Obviously if I knew for certain what I was doing I wouldn't ask. :) Skwerl said it best, "These aren't dirtbikes." Does any of this make any sense? :help:


Nope... When it's above a certain lowish RPM, you're working only the H jet, so sure it will run fine once it "gets there". To get the transition from L to H, you need the L rich enough so it can provide enough rich gas as the saw transitions from L to H - there are three L jets in the carb body of increasing size to enable this... the L screw controls the flow to these - set the L too low and it will only provide the correct or sufficient mixture the first or second of these jets.

Forget your dirt bikes...
 
I agree with Andy on this one. The Husky 365's have a bad reputation for a off idle hesitation. It had to do with the Zama carb not aloowing enough fuel on the low circuit. Enlarging the low jet hole or swapping the carb from a 372 fixes the problem. The 365 was "detuned" by husky as it ran better with the bigger carb and they didn't want pro users to notice this between a 400 and 700 dollar price tag differance for 6 cc....


So, I would try to add a little more fuel to the low circuit. It is possible that the carb may need a little cleaning or a rebuild kit thrown at it to make it run correctly.
 
awright

Ok guys, I'll give it a whirl and let ya know what happens. I'm going to give it a good cleaning first then adjust the L a little richer. Totally counter-intuitive to me, but I'm no saw tuner. When in doubt listen to the guy who's got a lot more training and experience. Especially if there's more than one. :) Thanks guys!!
 
even if it was a tad rich right now, testing going even richer first would be safer than going too lean. sure the saw might flood but the piston is plenty protected :) it does sound like its a bit lean to me.
 
NWCS said:
even if it was a tad rich right now, testing going even richer first would be safer than going too lean. sure the saw might flood but the piston is plenty protected :) it does sound like its a bit lean to me.

Best safe than sorry! I also thought about modding the muffler....I'm going to search the threads first, I'll get back to ya. :) Thanks!
 
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