Quick question(s) before I pull the trigger on a DHT 25 ton splitter

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What is the surface like where you split. I split on the paved court in front of my house. I bought a Harbor Freight Motor Cycle lift. It will lay almost flat to roll big rounds on, and it lifts up to the same height as the beam. Makes an 8' long staging table, like it better than the log tray. This is just a bunch of small stuff I put on it to test it out.
lBqu02F.jpg
 
What is the surface like where you split. I split on the paved court in front of my house. I bought a Harbor Freight Motor Cycle lift. It will lay almost flat to roll big rounds on, and it lifts up to the same height as the beam. Makes an 8' long staging table, like it better than the log tray. This is just a bunch of small stuff I put on it to test it out.
lBqu02F.jpg
Tire looks a "little low" on the huskee Joe. :omg:
 
Many thanks all! And especially to Greenskeeper for the heads up on the coupon. I’ve been on eBay for 16 years but never knew I could pull that one off. I pulled the trigger last night and also ordered the log catcher/tray---and got 10% off that too. Out the door price with the splitter, catcher, and sales tax was just a tad over a grand. Looking forward to picking it up and giving it a run. I will post a separate report after the weekend. I’m presently out of rounds!
 
I went with a countyline 40 ton unit and I really like it allot. Since most of these type splitters are basically the same, just branded different the countyline 40 has a taller wedge and I love that. You wouldn't think a few inches on the wedge would make that much difference but it does.
 
I have several neighbors with DHT splitters. Zero problems. Congrats on splitting for so many years with a mauls and wedges. As the quality of the wood I was cutting increased, the splitting became to difficult. Years ago one swing of an axe. Not to long ago, 2 wedges, and 10 to 20 hard swings with a 10lb sledge hammer. *** Gasp!!! ***

I love my 25ton Champion. It has saved my bones and joints.
 
I guess I’ll just keep going with this thread…

The splitter totally rocks but my experience with Lowe’s was one of the worst buying experiences I can recall. I ordered it online Wednesday, the last day of the sale. They were on sale for $999 and with the coupon recommendation from Greenkeeper, I scored it for $899 and also got 10% off on the log catcher, which won’t be here for another week. Because the total price with tax and everything was a little over $1000, unbeknownst to me, my credit card company flagged the transaction as fraudulent. I’ve used my credit card probably 100 times at Lowe’s by now but this purchase was over the threshold, at least as far as my Cabela’s Visa was concerned. There was an error when I went to place my order online---a window popped up telling me to call Lowe’s, which I did and the guy got the transaction approved by phone. When I went in to pick it up on Friday, the clerk said they’d have to run my credit card. Again. I told her I had already been through it but she said they had to run it and of course it was declined. After many attempts, I was able to complete the transaction (AGAIN) with my ****’s card. I’d rather have the Cabela’s points but whatever it takes…

After waiting in line for 20+ minutes to pick the splitter up out behind Lowe’s, I made my way home. Got back and flipped through the manual and I noticed that the gas shut off was in the ON position. The manual said it should always be off when transporting it or moving it and to make a long story short, the engine flooded and it would not start. And the choke lever was also broken! I called DHT and explained the scenario to the tech (who spoke English!) and he confirmed that the engine probably flooded on the way home. He said gasoline likely made its way into the oil and recommended that I change it. I actually thought about changing it but then I decided that after spending $1000 on a new gadget, I wasn’t about to change the oil prior to its 1st use. So yesterday morning I drug it back down to Lowe’s and exchanged it. 2 of the cashiers were working again who assisted in the debacle Friday afternoon and they just shook their heads. Exchanging it was a lot quicker than buying it. I literally had about an hour and a half in the purchase and credit card BS in the store after ordering it and paying for it online and then by phone. Ugh.

Before leaving Lowe’s with my 2nd splitter, I shut the gas shutoff valve OFF. All of the ones sitting there had the gas shutoff valve ON. Apparently the guy who set them up started them and then never closed the shutoff valve. So I made it home and the 2nd splitter wouldn’t start either. Before trying to start it, I removed the gas tank screen and I noted that only a small amount of gas was in the tank, presumably months old. I was going to drain it altogether but figured a small amount of old gas wouldn’t ruin my day. I filled the tank with fresh gas I purchased on the way home but it still wouldn’t start. Finally after a shot of starting fluid and a few more yanks, she kicked! I let it run and warm-up for a little while and ran the wedge back and forth a few times before attempting any serious splitting. Obviously, I also checked all fluid levels and everything seemed up to snuff there.

Once I got her running, great splitter! I cannot believe the amount of rounds I busted up in just a short time. I will really be cooking with gas once the log catcher gets here. I am very satisfied and it started on the 1st pull once it was warmed up. Just for ***** and giggles, I went out this morning to see how it would start and it did take 8 or 10 yanks. I’m not sure I quite have the choke/throttle combination figured out yet. I think the manual says the throttle should be at about half throttle to start. I had to move it over to wide open to get it to kick. It sputtered with the choke on, and I had to shut the choke off to get it to start. If anyone has any advice, feel free to chime in. I plan to help my Pop split a big pile of oak he had delivered but I’m almost afraid to move the dang thing. I’m sure there will be a learning curve as far as moving and starting it goes and again, any advice would be appreciated.
 
I guess I’ll just keep going with this thread…

.

Congrats on the new work toy. When there finicky to start right from the get go would make me a little uneasy that that problem may persist. If it were me, I would try cold starting it every day and see if it keeps doing it.
My countyline 40 has a Kohler motor and it starts the first pull every time. It even started the first time on the first pull. For cold starts I put it on full choke and adjust the throttle a little above idle and give it a solid pull. It starts right up and then I move the choke back to run. It does have a lot of compression so it takes a healthy pull if I want it to start on the first pull. If I get lazy and don't pull hard enough she will kick back and yank the rope out of my hand. But as long as I give it a healthy pull she has always started on the first pull.
Hope the starting thing gets better and you get many years of good service out of it. I see yours came with a water proof vent cap on the oil tank. I was going to recommend you change that out but DHT already took care of it. I had to change mine out because it didn't come with one. Learned that the hard way with my first splitter many years ago. Have fun with it.

I have never gotten good service from any of the big box stores. Seems those employees are just there for a pay check and could care less about customer service.
 
Thanks SB. I also have a Honda pressure washer that takes 7-8 pulls to get going. I’m running FRESH 87 octane unleaded (10% ethanol) and an ethanol conditioner. I wonder if high octane would be the way to go. I’ve used it in the past but my Jeep takes regular unleaded and I topped it off Saturday and filled my 5 gallon jug for the splitter and washer with the same stuff (87 octane).
 
Unless it's cold outside it usually is half choke at half throttle for 4-5 pulls. Took more when I bought it but the motor has broken in some. For a little motor it has a ton of compression.
 
Unless it's cold outside it usually is half choke at half throttle for 4-5 pulls.

Hmmm… That makes sense. I’ve only started it cold twice so far and I haven’t been able to start it with the choke set at full. I’ll give it a try later today, half way. Thanks!
 
Thanks SB. I also have a Honda pressure washer that takes 7-8 pulls to get going. I’m running FRESH 87 octane unleaded (10% ethanol) and an ethanol conditioner. I wonder if high octane would be the way to go. I’ve used it in the past but my Jeep takes regular unleaded and I topped it off Saturday and filled my 5 gallon jug for the splitter and washer with the same stuff (87 octane).

Octane ratings: The higher the octane, the more heat it takes to ignite the fuel. High octane is designed to resist pre ignition in high compression engines. So no it will not help and may work against you. These little motors are designed to run on regular pump gas. There not high compression so it's a waste of money. A low octane fuel is more volatile then a high octane fuel. Witch means it takes less heat to ignite. Check your plug gap, it may not be set properly.

Let me put it another way. Everything that burns has a flash point. That's the point it will spontaneously combust without an ignition source. Fuel is no different. When you compress something, it creates heat.
A high compression motor needs a high octane fuel to resist pre ignition because the fuel can spontaneously combust because of compression before the spark plug is timed to set it off. This causes motors to knock, robbing you of power. The motor is fighting against itself. Running the wrong octane fuel can cause excessive heat that will cause more wear and rob HP. 87 octane is the best octane for small low compression motors.

Most of these little motors are around 8:1 to 9:1 so that's considered low compression. High compression only start when you get into 10:1 and above.
 
I don't know how much fuel you go through but My main can is always 91 non oxygenated and I treat it with startron. Octane level doesn't break down as easy and it you worry less about gumming. I hadn't started my DHT splitter since May and I never drained the carb. Fired it up a week ago and it took 4-5 pulls on full choke. No hesitation. Standard 87 pump gas even treated I couldn't be that confident.

But fuel can be relative to state and station.
 
Thanks for the feedback on fuel, gents. FWIW, I run top tier gas (Shell). Honda recommended an ethanol fuel conditioner---I'm using Lucas Safeguard Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers.
 
I have a friend that drives a fuel tanker and does local deliveries to a lot of gas stations. He tells me that in many cases where there out of premium they will put regular in the premium tank and sell it as premium, even though it's not. So just because it's marked and sold as premium, it may or may not actually be what is advertised.
 
Not familar with the lucas stabilizer but I think their other products are good so I am sure it fits the bill.

No doubt on the issues with stations not having branded products in the tank. We did a large fuel study and it's crazy the variations.
 
AV gas is good if you have a local small airport and you wanna pay those prices.
I sometimes use the same racing fuel that I run in some of my bikes. VP U4.4 at 105 octane. I don't cut it, I run it strait. Sure does make the saw cut better. It doesn't really change the way it runs until you bury it in some wood and it doesn't bog down as much. Smells good too! :)
 
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