Glad you got things ironed out Joe. Only #'s 4 & 5 concern me but hey your a happy![Chop Wood :chop: :chop:](/styles/default/xenforo/chop.gif)
![Chop Wood :chop: :chop:](/styles/default/xenforo/chop.gif)
Get a Honda they are the greatest I have 2 they work fine.Ugh… I’m somewhere between dragging this POS back to the shop again or just yanking it off, replacing it with a Honda, and selling it on Craigslist as a mechanic’s special. It’s been sitting for a few months out of the weather but the best I can get it to do is backfire. In May, it started easily but would only run at about half throttle. I drug it off to the local shop again and after hearing it run, the shop owner said it sounded like the exhaust was plugged. He thought maybe some wasps built a nest in the muffler (I keep it under a tarp). He took the exhaust apart and found a screen which was plugged with carbon or whatever. He speculated that maybe running the avgas may have been the issue. Okay, maybe my fault on this? He removed the screen and left it out and said it should run fine. He also changed the spark plug to a Champion. Came home and ran it a few times and everything was fine. Summer came and wood splitting became less of a priority so it sat for a few months without running it. Yesterday, I went out to split up some big oak rounds and it won’t start. I pulled the cover off and found the flywheel, magnet, and ignition module all rusted up again. I cleaned everything up as I did before, checked for spark---looked good---but the best I can get is a backfire out the muffler when using starting fluid. I have a collection of spark plugs and I even tried a couple other ones but still no good. The avgas is a few months old but from my googling, should have a shelf life of about one year. Any suggestions before I give up and buy a Honda? Looks like I can buy a GX200 for $329 online. Last bill at the shop was $94.29. The one before that was $83.69. I’m ready to cut my losses and move on. Sigh…
I think he could buy a used heavy duty splitter with a Honda for 500.00 or so ,no?Honda makes a few variations of the GX200. Will this one cut it?
Maybe. But I'd still be sitting on a splitter that's less than one year old with an engine that doesn't run. The Kohler has given me fits from day one. Probably looking at a Honda GX200 or GC190. I emailed DHT, hoping they'd cut me a deal on a Honda replacement. Updates will follow…I think he could buy a used heavy duty splitter with a Honda for 500.00 or so ,no?
My friend has a splitter like yours and it isnt very sturdy I already had to weld it heavily. Keep a look out for an old machine made from heavy steel. Fix that one and sell it.Maybe. But I'd still be sitting on a splitter that's less than one year old with an engine that doesn't run. The Kohler has given me fits from day one. Probably looking at a Honda GX200 or GC190. I emailed DHT, hoping they'd cut me a deal on a Honda replacement. Updates will follow…
PM DHT Here. You might get better results.Maybe. But I'd still be sitting on a splitter that's less than one year old with an engine that doesn't run. The Kohler has given me fits from day one. Probably looking at a Honda GX200 or GC190. I emailed DHT, hoping they'd cut me a deal on a Honda replacement. Updates will follow…
Have you reached out to DHT yet?
Time to head to Harbor Freight and pickup a new engine. I use them all the time and have zero issues.
The clutch or torque converter would be used on a go cart or mini bike. They don't apply to a splitter.I took a look at them and they are pretty tempting. I could buy three for the price of one Honda. The recoil starter rope is on the opposite side---not sure that would be much of an issue. Through my research I also noted:
be aware that it does not come with a clutch or torque converter, so they must be purchased separately. For a Predator 212cc, you need a clutch or torque converter to accept a 3/4" shaft.
But maybe I already have the "clutch or torque converter?" I also wondered about bolt hole and shaft alignment… Errrr...
I have not read through this entire thread but one outstanding issue is covering with a tarp. Did that once to a nice car to protect the interior from sun damage and was rewarded with a rusty car. (Roof and condensation and so on) My splitter has a Honda 5HP with a plastic tank and if left exposed to the elements the linkage ices up so no start without thawing. I cover it with an old wool blanket when I shut it down then a crap wash tub to keep it dry. Doing this for 11 or 12 years with this motor. Nebraska is a humid state yet no rust for me this way.I assume if you have rust you have condensation issues in fuel and tank and carb etc. Might be relevant, just my thoughts and it only cost me the time to post them.Spike, thanks. I appreciate everyone taking the time to help me through this. I understand your point, but it doesn’t explain why the engine was running fine when I put it away a few months ago. When I checked out the flywheel this time, the coil was basically rusted to the flywheel, or at least it left two demarcations from the coil plates on the flywheel. I seem to have spark and gas, so I don’t know what changed while it sat for a few months. I can’t even get it to kick with starting fluid. I used a wire brush on the die grinder to remove the rust, not really grinding away with it. The first time I did it, I boogered up a throttle/governor spring which I ordered, replaced, and then everything ran fine after the rust removal. It actually even ran fine with the jerryrigged spring, until the new one arrived by mail for 12 bucks. I’m back to regular unleaded and RC12YC Champion spark, but still no luck. That’s what I had in it when I tucked it away a few months ago (eliminated the E3 when it was in the shop the last time for the plugged exhaust screen). And I threw in a splash of Seafoam, which Kohler had suggested. I dunno…
Josh, I haven't played with the valves…
Enter your email address to join: