Rayco 1631 stump grinder bearings

[offduty]

The pulleys are pressed on, and are removed by putting long bolts in the blank threads on the lock inserts, by tightening the bolts you push the insert off and the pulley comes off. This probably all looks Greek, but the manual with the parts breakdown will be a big help.

This helped a lot. I got the pulleys and poly belt off today. One problem. The parts manual, page 20, shows the top pulley/sprocket with the bushing going in from the left/outside and the bottom pulley/sprocket bushing going in from the right/inside. When I just removed my pulleys/sprockets both bushings were going in from the left/outside. The bottom pulley bushing was about 1 inch out from the end of the cutter wheel shaft and the bolt that goes in the end of the shaft was only in by a few threads. Can someone shed some light on exactly how the bottom cutter wheel pulley/sprocket and bushing should be mounted. If I follow the parts diagram the only way to be able to get the bolts in the bushing is to install the pulley/bushing on the shaft first and then slide the shaft through the spacers/bearings/cutter wheel/hub/spacers and bearing. It also looks like someone changed one of the cutter wheel bearings to the new SKWEZLOC locking collar style NP-24T. The bearing on the left has two set screws to hold it on the shaft but the one on the right has what looks like the SKWEZLOC collar. I'd like to change all four to the SKWEZLOC style if possible.

My poly belt looks to be in good condition, no visible wear or cracks. I think once I get these bearings replaced and the belts adjusted properly I'll be good to go.

Thanks for the help

 

[Dadatwins]

That is one of the problems with trying to change out from the original NP24 bearings. The other will be getting the bolt holes that hold the bearings to line up. The other problem you already mentioned is the lock bolt on the non-pulley side is only held by a few threads. There is just not enough clearance to change over to a different style bearing without re-machining the setup. You could probaly change over the top set with no problem, the bottom is the problem. THe bearing should also be changed in pairs and not have differnt types on both sides. This could throw off the balance of the wheel and screw up a whole lot more. When using the original parts the bearings are installed loose on the shaft and then after being mounted on the machine there is enough room to tighten the set screws by rotating the wheel. Use loctite on the set screws and check them after an hour of useage. After the wheel is mounted the pullies are added. Have fun.

 

[offduty]

Thank you Dadatwins

Dadatwins,
Thanks for the advice and phone number for Rayco. After calling them and speaking to Jeff I was able to confirm that the lower cutter wheel pully/sprocket was not installed correctly. The bushing is supposed to go into the sprocket from the rear/right on the lower sprocket for my vintage (2002) 1625. However Jeff was not sure how the bolts would be installed on the lower sprocket. After working on it again today I figured out that the bolts on the lower sprocket go in from the front/left through the non threaded holes in the sprocket and into the threaded holes of the bushing flange, kind of oposite from the top sprocket.

Now if I can just get the bushing out of the cutter wheel hub and the bearing on the pully side off the shaft I'll be all set.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[Dadatwins]

Dadatwins,
Thanks for the advice and phone number for Rayco. After calling them and speaking to Jeff I was able to confirm that the lower cutter wheel pully/sprocket was not installed correctly. The bushing is supposed to go into the sprocket from the rear/right on the lower sprocket for my vintage (2002) 1625. However Jeff was not sure how the bolts would be installed on the lower sprocket. After working on it again today I figured out that the bolts on the lower sprocket go in from the front/left through the non threaded holes in the sprocket and into the threaded holes of the bushing flange, kind of oposite from the top sprocket.

Now if I can just get the bushing out of the cutter wheel hub and the bearing on the pully side off the shaft I'll be all set.

Thanks again for the advice.

You are welcome, glad they helped, after you get it apart, some steel wool to tune up the shaft will help. I put never seize under my bearings when I reasembled. If you need more help give me call.