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paul baskind

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Can anyone recommend an evergreen for my front yard at the corner of the house? It's not a big yard so I so I would prefer something that doesn't grow too tall.

Thanks
 
Sorry Rocky J. I thought I had entered my location when I registered so it would show each time. Not true. I live in southern New York State, just above New York City (Westchester County).

Thanks
 
Just for fun try a Black spruce. It won't ever be a size issue in height or crown spread. plus no one else will have one.
 
Hinoke cypress. A bit hybrid, as the species can grow wide and eventually tall. Easily pruned in Japanese style, semi-bonsai.

Hollywood Juniper. Unique form, artistic...

I havent checked the hardiness zone...those thrive in the Pacifc North Wet.

Weeping alaska cedar...awesome specimen tree.

Any abies (true fir) grow well out your way? Help me out, guys? Some are a bit slow growing here, like noble, concolor and pinsapo, (spanish fir, very rare)
 
a ficifolia they dont grow to high awesome colors in spring,cotinius red leaf i think there really a big shrub both good for a front yard
 
Skwerl is right, in his charming way--soil, drainage and sun exposure all need to be considered. The hinoki is a good plant but slow, the hollywood junipers get a bacterial disease here in NC, no idea about NY.

Cedar and fir may be slow, but if near a house will eventually be a problem. Have you tried your local ag extension office for a list?
 
planting trees on corners of propertys..is not a good idea especialy if your on clay soil.....you can get structural subsidence,depending on species of tree...why not plant a nice BAY tree,or a slow growing YEW taxxus baccata...or a laburnham
 
Thanks to everyone who replied. I really appreciate it and now have a lot of food for thought. Rollacosta, what did you mean by
structural subsidence? Ideally, how far from the foundation should a tree be planted so that it does not cause problems down the road. This is of course assuming a smaller variety.
 
Hi Paul,

Now that we know you are in the zone 6 area, the plants best grown in your area should be at least zone 6 hardy (or zone 4 or 5). Zone 7 plants are very marginal, and might work if protected from winter wind - but no gaurantees, since you would lose it in an occaisional tough winter.

Attach pictures of the proposed planting location, please. Note or draw compass as well.
 
Without anymore info to go on I would vote for a Serbian Spruce. They are slow growers and maintain a fairly narrow upright growth pattern. We have several planted along buildings here on campus and have had no problems with them. Plus they have a really nice color for a spruce.
 
Originally posted by paul baskind
Thanks to everyone who replied. I really appreciate it and now have a lot of food for thought. Rollacosta, what did you mean by
structural subsidence? Ideally, how far from the foundation should a tree be planted so that it does not cause problems down the road. This is of course assuming a smaller variety.

subsidence..=trees takeing moisture out of the ground causing footings/foundations to shirink clay soil ..which will a low footings to drop causing house to pull apart[very exspensive job]....REMEMBER i said CLAY SOIL
idealy you should plant all shrubs and trees at least 20 feet from house...imo...and do some homework as some trees need to be at least 100 + feet away..willows oaks poplars
 
If you have a basement, then what RC speaks of is not an issue. Allso if it is not a large plant then it's not a big deal either.

The vast majority of houses have foundation plantings here in the US. In the UK they have become crazy and are blaming the trees for every foundation crack.

Even if the soils have the tyoe of dynamic clays that expand and contract with the dry/wet cycle, if the house has been constructed and backfilled properly it still will not be a poblem.
 
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