parrisw
Tree Freak
I measured the blade out at .026
Also Cedar is very soft, why would it not cut well in that, as apposed to green wood.
Dam well how do I know where the right tension is? I hate wasting loads of wood testing? I've done it like the manual said, to the white line.
Semi sharp? Its new, should be very sharp? When I set the guide blocks I think I used one piece of paper. Cant remember now. When setting the guide blocks, with one piece of paper, which block do you put the paper in, then where do you set the other guide block first?
Will, if your dry cedar is knotty like the western red cedar and eastern red cedar that I've planed then you blade is now semi sharp. You can take it out into the sunlight and look at it through a 10X loupe for verification. For adjusting the carbide guides the instructions on page 11 of the Ripsaw manual states to loosen the screws, place the paper between the band and the top carbide block, squeeze the blocks together with pliers or vise grips , then tighten the screws. I would think that it would be important for the band to be tensioned although it does not say in the manual. Here is the updated manual. http://www.ripsaw.com/manuals/ripsawmanual.pdf In the old manual there was a explanation as to calibrating the tension indicator and it basically said to take the tension off the band and adjust the indicator so that it's parallel to the bending beam under it.
Also Cedar is very soft, why would it not cut well in that, as apposed to green wood.
Will, your cedar pictures show clear knot free wood, what kind of cedar is it? The cedar that I've seen has a lot of knots.
Enter your email address to join: