Fish
Tree Freak
OOO, A little lower, and to the left...... Big guy..........
Saw cuts out full throttle???
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OOO, A little lower, and to the left...... Big guy..........
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Are you saying I should be able to see light from under the needle?
Are you saying I should be able to see light from under the needle?
Trigger Man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is the muffler pluged?
Trigger Man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Those exahust ports look choked off , I would check the muffler too
Trigger Man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm not saying this is problem but I would still check
Another possibility, if the saw has points ( I see you have some older saws ), sometimes the spring in the points weakens enough that at high rpm's the points will not return fully closed.
I didn't see if you post what model saw this is on.
I didn't see if you post what model saw this is on.
Homelite C-9
I had a homelite c-5 and c-52 in the mid 1980's. c-9 must be huge.
I remember buying points for 1 of them and they were a Tecumseh part.
That thing does'nt have a governor does it ?
I reread the first post and to me it sounds more like ignition then fuel delivery.
I remember buying points for 1 of them and they were a Tecumseh part.
That thing does'nt have a governor does it ?
I reread the first post and to me it sounds more like ignition then fuel delivery.
85cc's and no governor.
That exhaust port is well choked up, pull the jug off and clean it up, also check that the muffler isn't full of carbon and oil as the port looks blocked - this would normally stop the motor reaching high revs but may cause the motor to have the fault you have.
Had a Husky pole hedge trimmer with a blocked muffler - just wouldn't rev at all and no power.
One thing to check is the correct assembly of the carb gaskets - I have had two saws off the bay with the gaskets back to front - just check the servicing guide from the manufacturer - your diaphragm spacer gasket may be under the diaphragm rather than above it thus cutting back the carbs fuel capacity - if the diaphragm has a location dimple on its metal disk with a groove around it then this locates on the yoke on the needle arm - found this out on one of my Jonsereds.
Good luck
Spud
Had a Husky pole hedge trimmer with a blocked muffler - just wouldn't rev at all and no power.
One thing to check is the correct assembly of the carb gaskets - I have had two saws off the bay with the gaskets back to front - just check the servicing guide from the manufacturer - your diaphragm spacer gasket may be under the diaphragm rather than above it thus cutting back the carbs fuel capacity - if the diaphragm has a location dimple on its metal disk with a groove around it then this locates on the yoke on the needle arm - found this out on one of my Jonsereds.
Good luck
Spud
Finally broke down and bought a decent air compressor today. I'll finish going threw the carb tomorrow now and make sure you can eat outta it.
The tank is all spic and span and the sealer is drying now so tomorrow i'll be able to throw some fuel in it. All new fuel line and brand new filter to. Everything is nice and tight. I'll deal with the carbon build up the best I can from out here. I do not want to pull that jug just yet. Anything I should look out for? If when it all gets back together and still does it then I have 1 last hope. Found a used carb so when that gets here this week i'll swap that out and try that.
The tank is all spic and span and the sealer is drying now so tomorrow i'll be able to throw some fuel in it. All new fuel line and brand new filter to. Everything is nice and tight. I'll deal with the carbon build up the best I can from out here. I do not want to pull that jug just yet. Anything I should look out for? If when it all gets back together and still does it then I have 1 last hope. Found a used carb so when that gets here this week i'll swap that out and try that.
If you havent, I would pull the flywheel, check the fly wheel key, if the points and condenser are old,replace. If it didn't fix it , you have a tune up when you do get the problem fixed.
Be careful in cleaning out that carbon - if it gets in to the combustion chamber, it may just work itself around the piston and do some damage to your cylinder lining.
Dont forget to check the positioning of all your carb gaskets, it is a common mistake to get them the wrong way round, the saw will still run but not too good.
Also make sure the needle arm is set correctly - the maintenance support pages from most carb manufacturers are usually very good.
Spud
Dont forget to check the positioning of all your carb gaskets, it is a common mistake to get them the wrong way round, the saw will still run but not too good.
Also make sure the needle arm is set correctly - the maintenance support pages from most carb manufacturers are usually very good.
Spud
AKDriveSprocket
ArboristSite Guru
Looks like your running to rich. Too much fuel even at the right carb adjustment. Look at the trigger and see if it is hanging lower than your other saws. The linkage to the carb my need to be bent alittle more. I was working on a TS 400 that the linkage needed to be bent to bring it down on fuel. Not sure if this is the right way to fix it but it did fix the TS 400.
Got it running!!!!!!
OK it took a little time but I did it. After I pulled the saw apart to the crank case I noticed the plug wire was all cracked and frayed up under the cylinder shroud where you could see. At high rpm's it must have been enough for the spark to jump to ground and cause the stall to want to stall. I was able to get the wire out of the coil and a great member here (matt9923) sent me a new wire ASAP. I epoxied it back in the coil and all is well. Thanks matt for helping me out when I had no real support from the small engine repair shops locally.
Anyways saw runs 100% now and has tons of power with that 24" bar. Don't mind the no recoil cause of course the rope broke after i got the saw back together. Luckily she starts easy since I had to wrap rope and a handle around the crank to start it for the video. Anyone have a new recoil since the one on it wasn't the correct one anyways???? Here is a quick run video. Check the noodling thread if you care to see that.
Thanks to everyone who was here to give me a hand and get this sorted out and matt once again for the wire
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OK it took a little time but I did it. After I pulled the saw apart to the crank case I noticed the plug wire was all cracked and frayed up under the cylinder shroud where you could see. At high rpm's it must have been enough for the spark to jump to ground and cause the stall to want to stall. I was able to get the wire out of the coil and a great member here (matt9923) sent me a new wire ASAP. I epoxied it back in the coil and all is well. Thanks matt for helping me out when I had no real support from the small engine repair shops locally.
Anyways saw runs 100% now and has tons of power with that 24" bar. Don't mind the no recoil cause of course the rope broke after i got the saw back together. Luckily she starts easy since I had to wrap rope and a handle around the crank to start it for the video. Anyone have a new recoil since the one on it wasn't the correct one anyways???? Here is a quick run video. Check the noodling thread if you care to see that.
Thanks to everyone who was here to give me a hand and get this sorted out and matt once again for the wire
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wigglesworth
Booned
Real men don't need a recoil......just use your teeth.
Last edited:
andrethegiant70
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey, it doubles as a mosquito fogger!!
Nice saw... I see C-5s, C-51s, C-52s, and C-72s a lot, but I've never seen a C-9. Sounds good and looks good. That's a cool piece of magnesium.
Nice saw... I see C-5s, C-51s, C-52s, and C-72s a lot, but I've never seen a C-9. Sounds good and looks good. That's a cool piece of magnesium.
LOL yea its really not hard to start with the rope just gets irritating if you gotta pull it more then 2 times.
Terry Penman
New Member
Probably not the carburetor. I had the same problem with the chainsaw running fine until it got to high revs/ high power cuts. Took the ( two stroke ) carbie apart and , sure enough (after 5 years!), discovered that the metering diaphragm was warped and slightly distorted (not surprising I suppose, seeing as the average chainsaw runs between 9,000 & 12,000 RPM, that tiny little piece of plastic must move that often as well!)
Went on the internet to find a replacement kit: two gaskets, metering diaphragm and flap valve, for $15 delivered.
For $21 delivered, I could get a brand new carburetor complete! "No Disassemble Stephanie!" Guess what I got. (within 5 days)
New carbie,(ie new needles/jets, ergo no junk inside), already had new filter, emptied tank and new fuel, vent cap clear, runs 90% better, needed slight adjustment for idle but still has the occasional high rev cutout. Must either be high speed mixture (stock standard carbie from manufacturer quite possible) which I haven't tried yet , as I only received it 3 days ago, or the magneto. ( I had to replace one three years ago as the retaining bolts had come loose and it overheated and warped but that is fine now. I do, however, have a $12 replacement on it's way, just in case. (At that price, I cannot lose!)
Once I fit that, I will keep you informed as to whether I've determined the "real" problem.
Good luck to all. Hope this post has been helpful.
Went on the internet to find a replacement kit: two gaskets, metering diaphragm and flap valve, for $15 delivered.
For $21 delivered, I could get a brand new carburetor complete! "No Disassemble Stephanie!" Guess what I got. (within 5 days)
New carbie,(ie new needles/jets, ergo no junk inside), already had new filter, emptied tank and new fuel, vent cap clear, runs 90% better, needed slight adjustment for idle but still has the occasional high rev cutout. Must either be high speed mixture (stock standard carbie from manufacturer quite possible) which I haven't tried yet , as I only received it 3 days ago, or the magneto. ( I had to replace one three years ago as the retaining bolts had come loose and it overheated and warped but that is fine now. I do, however, have a $12 replacement on it's way, just in case. (At that price, I cannot lose!)
Once I fit that, I will keep you informed as to whether I've determined the "real" problem.
Good luck to all. Hope this post has been helpful.
