Separate "create a lean" backcut with wedge?

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Disadvantage: the wedge is closer to the hinge, so I don't do it with anything real big/heavy

The method you discribed is a very good and safe method for felling. One way around your disadvantage is to bore in from the face cut going straight back. Understandably, this takes away a little bit of hinge, but not enough to worry about. After the nose of my bar exits the back of the tree, I like to sweep it one way and then the other to widen that hole. This will not take any more hinge away. Then drive the wedge(s), cut the holding wood on each side, and let 'er fall.
 
The method you discribed is a very good and safe method for felling. One way around your disadvantage is to bore in from the face cut going straight back. Understandably, this takes away a little bit of hinge, but not enough to worry about. After the nose of my bar exits the back of the tree, I like to sweep it one way and then the other to widen that hole. This will not take any more hinge away. Then drive the wedge(s), cut the holding wood on each side, and let 'er fall.

I read about that somewhere but never tried it.

I will definitely give it a try, sound like it will work just fine.
 
I use the wedge to keep the bar from getting pinched. Remember if the wind blows the wedge can fall out, as the tree starts forward out it comes only to have the wind bring the tree back with no wedge. If the tree has a back lean and the wedge falls out as described the saw gets pinched, the hinge breaks and major damage may occur. The wedge is no guarantee. If the tree has a back lean and you attempt to use a wedge to lift, while pounding you can break the hinge.
 
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