my problem seems like a muscle problem & I assume the muscle is contracting, which causes my arm to lock up & puts me in alot of pain. & thanks everyone, I figured I would get slammed for asking about the junk saw, but its out of necessity, not because I dont know better, or just wanted to waste money modifying something thats basically a throw away saw.
serious question on can I modify a wild thing? read my reason before cussing me
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my problem seems like a muscle problem & I assume the muscle is contracting, which causes my arm to lock up & puts me in alot of pain. & thanks everyone, I figured I would get slammed for asking about the junk saw, but its out of necessity, not because I dont know better, or just wanted to waste money modifying something thats basically a throw away saw.
One thing that stands out about most modern saws relative to the old xl-12s and such is the hugely improved anti-vibration. Seems that's a large part of your prob. I'd suggest not going for a top-handle saw for a bunch of reasons, mostly because it won't reduce effort required of your left arm.
The smaller Dolmar saws, ps-421 & ps-5105, have excellent a/v. very good power output, pro-level durability and reasonably light weight. Not to mention, excellent value, which totally differentiates them from stihl products.
Husqy/Jonsered also have some very smooth, powerful lighter saws that would suit your needs very well.
The smaller Dolmar saws, ps-421 & ps-5105, have excellent a/v. very good power output, pro-level durability and reasonably light weight. Not to mention, excellent value, which totally differentiates them from stihl products.
Husqy/Jonsered also have some very smooth, powerful lighter saws that would suit your needs very well.
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
I picked up my Echo cs 352 because I was struggling with my big Jonny due to some nerve problems and arthritis in my neck. It was the biggest displacement saw I could get which weighed in under 10#. The plastic handle hasn't given me any trouble, and the saw really woke up once I gutted the catalytic converter out of the muffler. It might have some more grunt left on tap if I opened up the exhaust outlet, but I wasn't sure what the cat-delete would do for tunability when I did it so I didn't go crazy. EPA regs require limiters on the carb screws now, so if you do modify anything, you'll need to remove those in order to tune it. It's not too tough to fix, but something you need to be aware needs doing.
Anti-vibe on modern saws is leaps and bounds better than even 20 years back. I'm still vibration sensitive in my hands and I have no issues running a saw, but a weed whacker with a brush blade is a huge no-go. I got my Echo brush cutter because my hands wigged out and were twitching for nearly a day after using an old Stihl straight shaft with brush blade for 20 minutes clearing an overgrown field. In fact, I didn't even get it done before my hands made holding anything steady impossible.
You can mod a wild thing, and they do have some potential to wake up. I've muffler modded a couple of them with good results. Brad Snelling even ported one once. We're saw junkies first, brand snobs second.
Most of it's just clean ribbing. I don't think it'd be met well if someone laid into you for using a cheaper saw because you needed to. That's not good form, and this group is better culled than that.
I hope you can find a workable solution to get back out in the woods.
Anti-vibe on modern saws is leaps and bounds better than even 20 years back. I'm still vibration sensitive in my hands and I have no issues running a saw, but a weed whacker with a brush blade is a huge no-go. I got my Echo brush cutter because my hands wigged out and were twitching for nearly a day after using an old Stihl straight shaft with brush blade for 20 minutes clearing an overgrown field. In fact, I didn't even get it done before my hands made holding anything steady impossible.
You can mod a wild thing, and they do have some potential to wake up. I've muffler modded a couple of them with good results. Brad Snelling even ported one once. We're saw junkies first, brand snobs second.
Most of it's just clean ribbing. I don't think it'd be met well if someone laid into you for using a cheaper saw because you needed to. That's not good form, and this group is better culled than that.I hope you can find a workable solution to get back out in the woods.
jcsmith
Certified Shade Tree Mechanic
Old Biker, I have a 2004 Craftsman equivalent of the wild thing. Didn't come with spike but the holes were there. I put one on and modded the muffler , with carb adjustment it is a decent 42cc saw. The part number is 5300 14381, comes with screws. It fits a few smaller Huskys as well. With a Stihl Picco 3/8 lp 63ps chain , that saw would cut some wood.
Chris
Chris
They do sell bucking spikes for Wild Things. I bought one off Fleabay and it works fine. Another saw you should really consider is the Redmax GZ 4500/4000/400 or the Ryobi 10532. All esstentially the same saw. 9 lb powerhead weight and a very impressive small saw, with good antivibe. The Redmax in the GZ4500 is the current version, but the others can be found used or old stock NOS on Fleabay. Responds very well to muffler mods and porting, too, according to Brad Snelling. The 38/40cc Earthquake saws are copies of the Redmax without the Strato charged engine. The Redmax/Ryobis are my favorite small saw to run.
They make a rear handle for that little Echo you have . I have 3 of them right now. LOL
Also sounds like you really should see a doc bout that arm ! Just may be something they can do ?
A little hard to find , but a very nice saw to run is a Stihl 200 , rear handle version of the 200T , amazing power for such a small saw . Don't know if they make the 201 with a rear handle ?
There are some threads on working over a wild thingy , they got a LOT out of them !
I like Huskys more because of the anti vibe is better than most . Newer Stihls have gotten much better too .
I would try a 350 Husky , great power and bout the same or lighter than the wild thingy . Used go for round 150.00 - 200.00 . Also lighter than a 346 and can be modded very easy ! Haven't picked up a newer Husky yet to know anything ?
But first thing would be to see a doc ! LOL
Good luck to you !
Also sounds like you really should see a doc bout that arm ! Just may be something they can do ?
A little hard to find , but a very nice saw to run is a Stihl 200 , rear handle version of the 200T , amazing power for such a small saw . Don't know if they make the 201 with a rear handle ?
There are some threads on working over a wild thingy , they got a LOT out of them !
I like Huskys more because of the anti vibe is better than most . Newer Stihls have gotten much better too .
I would try a 350 Husky , great power and bout the same or lighter than the wild thingy . Used go for round 150.00 - 200.00 . Also lighter than a 346 and can be modded very easy ! Haven't picked up a newer Husky yet to know anything ?
But first thing would be to see a doc ! LOL
Good luck to you !
Open the muffler on a Quake they really come alive ! Plus you can pick them up dirt cheap !
Tbone is right, you really do need to see a doc. Might be something that can be fixed, or at least made better. Physical therapy will help keep things from getting worse, if not make them better.
Fireman Bill
ArboristSite Lurker
My Dad bought the MS-251 CBE easy start and loves it. You pull the rope slow and fires right up. Light wait and has good power for the size.
I would take a look at the Stihl ms241 or the Husqvarna 543xp. Both are pro saws under 10# and will have way more power than the poulan. I agree that the anti-vibe on the newer saws is much better than on older saws.
Another thing to keep in mind is that bar size has a big affect on weight and maneuverability of a saw. If you run a 13-14" bar on one of these you will have a quick running nasty little saw that is easy to handle and good for up to about a foot thick.
You can run up to an 18" on them for the bigger stuff, or suffer through running one of your bigger saws for the real big stuff.
Another thing to keep in mind is that bar size has a big affect on weight and maneuverability of a saw. If you run a 13-14" bar on one of these you will have a quick running nasty little saw that is easy to handle and good for up to about a foot thick.
You can run up to an 18" on them for the bigger stuff, or suffer through running one of your bigger saws for the real big stuff.
zogger
Tree Freak
I have a lot of thoughts on this primarily medical. Have you done some internet research on alternative therapies for your condition? Right off the top of my head I am suspecting magnesium deficiencies.
You can do a lot with lifestyle/diet alterations. Just sayin' been there done that with serious, real dang serious, back problems (ruptured 12 discs) and having my right arm paralysed. Once I stopped listening to the straight docs and did my own research and came up with alternative therapies, I improved. I am supposed to be in a walker or wheelchair according to the straight docs....
As to your wood, I would recommend at this time, until you get better, just find some *competent* folks to do the wood for you on shares. You know how much work it is, so be generous on their share, call it 3/4ths maybe.
Good luck man.
You can do a lot with lifestyle/diet alterations. Just sayin' been there done that with serious, real dang serious, back problems (ruptured 12 discs) and having my right arm paralysed. Once I stopped listening to the straight docs and did my own research and came up with alternative therapies, I improved. I am supposed to be in a walker or wheelchair according to the straight docs....
As to your wood, I would recommend at this time, until you get better, just find some *competent* folks to do the wood for you on shares. You know how much work it is, so be generous on their share, call it 3/4ths maybe.
Good luck man.
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
I'm awful young to be able to relate, but I injured my back in a tow motor accident with a safe that couldn't be moved at Home Depot, when I worked there. Then, to top that off, I have fibromyalgia. So I have some days when I can lug around my dad's ol' Homelite Super XL Auto all day, then times when I'd rather run my 8 1/2 lbs. Homelite Bandit. I don't suffer the arm problem though. I modified my cs4116 earthquake and plan on waking up some of my smaller saws, though less popular (even with me) than some of my bigger saws. A muffler mod and good tuning plus really sharp chain will do wonders for some of those cheap saws. I refuse to cut with dull chain anymore, since a sharp one makes a saw behave sooo much better. Best wishes to you and I hope you find what works best for your trying situation.
Bingo
ArboristSite Operative
lots of advice here...Have you tried serious PT? Blood work at the docs to ID any potential deficiencies that may turn up? (just to get those "official" things outta the way). You have to find what works best for you. Small saws work. And today's newer saws have some excellent AV. Just wonder if you've ever wrapped your saw handle in some nice thick, soft foam before using it? Let that foam absorb some of the vibe that comes thru. I used to tape on whatever foam I could find from time to time. They also make palm-padded gloves nowadays that might also help. There's a whole range of good 40cc saws out there now. I'd get a Dolmar 421 in a minute. You find what works for you and use it. Yur too young to quit now! GL
RE: now my wife wants me to get cleared, so we can go enjoy it
Did not see anyone mention another option yet -- depending on the extent of your land and your finances, invest in anything from used Bobcat or Kubota to a D11.
My in town place is only 3+ acres, but keep an old ford 4500 backhoe handy for the 'small clearing' jobs. Son is on only 1.5 acre, and we keep a bobcat 835 there.
If you REALLY want to mod something, attach a chain saw to the bucket or hoe and set yourself up with a mechanized outfit.
Tore rotator cuff a few years back, really liked having machines vs. hand operations then !
Did not see anyone mention another option yet -- depending on the extent of your land and your finances, invest in anything from used Bobcat or Kubota to a D11.
My in town place is only 3+ acres, but keep an old ford 4500 backhoe handy for the 'small clearing' jobs. Son is on only 1.5 acre, and we keep a bobcat 835 there.
If you REALLY want to mod something, attach a chain saw to the bucket or hoe and set yourself up with a mechanized outfit.
Tore rotator cuff a few years back, really liked having machines vs. hand operations then !
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
I have one strato engine it is running really good but i do not like it when i dont need to run under half throttle cause it loads up till the upper barrel starts opening up all the non strato engines are smooth running at all throttle positions
