Some ideas if you please.

[Oregon_Rob]

I have a fir tree that is ~10-12” dbh, about 60’ tall that leans over at about 10° into a couple of other trees. This tree is nice a straight and as a decent clump of branches about 45’ up, the rest is straight without any branches. The clump is mixed with the other trees. I would like to get a rope up high enough on this tree so that I can leverage it back, but can’t figure out how to get a rope up very high. I don’t think I am going to get a throw bag… up and through any of the foliage, too thick, and I don’t have any climbing gear.

Any ideas? It eats at me every time I walk by it.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

You guys are so detail orientedJ
I want to fell it. I just need a way to pull it back after I notch and back cut. Sorry, it made perfect sense in my own mind.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Can you climb?



I ain't oriental!

 

[Oregon_Rob]

No gear for climbing

 

[MasterBlaster]

So that means your not a climber?

Can you set a throwline in it?

 

[Dobber]

If the proper tools are limited you could tie a running bowline around the tree and slide it up with an extension pruner from the top of a ladder. Or you could hire someone to do it for you.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

I am thinking that this is my best option, thanks!

"If the proper tools are limited you could tie a running bowline around the tree and slide it up with an extension pruner from the top of a ladder. "

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by Oregon_Rob
I don’t think I am going to get a throw bag… up and through any of the foliage, too thick...Any ideas?

Try, try, and try again. Even experts have spent manyminutes, hour? getting lines in trees.

It eats at me every time I walk by it.

Think about why, and the loss of support those other trees will have if the leaner is removed. the edge of you rlandscape will be oushed back; the remaining trees will be newly exposed to stresses that may make them lean toward you.

If we cut down every tree with a 10% lean, there's be a lot of lumber laying around.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Thank guy, but this is in a small timber stand and i am more looking at it as removing a tree that is likely crowding the other two.

 

[rbtree]

Rob,

I assume this tree is in the woods, with no obstacles nearby.

The idea of placing a line with pole and ladder would work, if you have sufficient pulling power.

But how about an advanced procedure that will take a lot of caution and careful saw technique. Slash cut it, 18 inches or more at a time. The tree will become more vertical with each cut as it drops down, and eventually will fall on its own. This method can be made safer by attaching a pull line as high as possible. Then you can be assured the tree won't close the kerf on the bar.

Disclaimer, this method is very dangerous, as the tree could fall at any time and in any direction...even fall on your foot if you're not nimble. But it is something I've used many times, usually with a tree a bit smaller than you described.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

RB,
Describe what you mean by the term “Slash”. The way the tree is leaning into the two others, it isn’t going anywhere unexpectedly.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

another

 

[Lumberjack]

Originally posted by rbtree
But how about an advanced procedure that will take a lot of caution and careful saw technique. Slash cut it, 18 inches or more at a time. The tree will become more vertical with each cut as it drops down, and eventually will fall on its own. This method can be made safer by attaching a pull line as high as possible. Then you can be assured the tree won't close the kerf on the bar.

I use that on some hung up trees and other times, but I figured that it would be a banned/ shunned practice like topping, spiking on trims ect.


Guess not. But it sounds as tho he would like mill it some what, by his description.


Carl

 

[Dobber]

Originally posted by rbtree
Rob,

I assume this tree is in the woods, with no obstacles nearby.

The idea of placing a line with pole and ladder would work, if you have sufficient pulling power.

But how about an advanced procedure that will take a lot of caution and careful saw technique. Slash cut it, 18 inches or more at a time. The tree will become more vertical with each cut as it drops down, and eventually will fall on its own. This method can be made safer by attaching a pull line as high as possible. Then you can be assured the tree won't close the kerf on the bar.

Disclaimer, this method is very dangerous, as the tree could fall at any time and in any direction...even fall on your foot if you're not nimble. But it is something I've used many times, usually with a tree a bit smaller than you described.

given this you are really suggesting this as a realistic option to putting one rope and felling the tree. For starters to insure controle while slashing he would need 3 ropes attached to the tree that would need to be tied off and retied after every 4 or 5 slash cuts, or the tree will go wherever it wants. not to mention this is a 10" to 12"dbh tree even in the perfect conditions with zero winds and no lean to the tree, and running a hot saw from the timbersport series. IT CANT BE DONE. nobody in there right mind would even attempt it.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Ha! Slash cutting? Thats what thats called?

I've done it many times, on the ground and in the tree.

I allways get funny looks when I do that, but when you do it right, it works perfectly.

And R B's right, its easy to suddenly plant yur foot if ya don't pay attention.

Yea, Carl. Your right. I don't think BLOWSHA would approve!

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Thanks for the replys. Think i will wait till the weather is better, ground is dryer and will attempt the ladder trick. I will pick up a block and use the truck, after notching it, to give it a go. May spend a few min. with a throw bag, just in case i am over est. the degree of Difficulty. After all, there is no time line for me on this one.

Regards,

Rob

 

[topnotchtree]

I have no intention of demeaning anybodys intelligence or abilities, but I have heard and seen firsthand how do-it-yourselfers get hurt. You should be able to hire a climber to set you a rope high in the tree for a reasonable price. Compare that to the price of a Doctors bill and the few days off work. I do not know the situation you have but this is just something to think about

 

[coffeecraver]

FYI:
If you are planning on grinding the stump,you should be aware of how close the tree you are removing is to the other trees.

You wouldn't want to grind this stump and damage the roots of the trees nearby,or you might need to take those down as well.

If it is green and safe let it be
if its dead and brown take it down
Ugly don't qualify

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Topnotch,
Thanks for the advice, i'm not the wreckless type and not a complete novice. I won't do anything with out first thinking it through.

Regards,

Rob

 

[wiley_p]

Its actually called a spear cut and not only is it very effective in certain situations, it is also a very important technique to have experience with on the tree that is described you may not have enough lean for it to be easy, use a med. size saw and remember when it gets vertical it will change direction on you but at that point it should be a 40' tree. Anyone who has cut in thick timber, right of way work, etc. has done this alot.