Spacer For Pulling Bar Bolts? 288XP

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Moss Man

Moss Man

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The bar bolts on my 288XP are loose and need to be pulled into place, what makes a good spacer between the bar nuts and the case for drawing the bolts tight into the case? The clutch cover perhaps?

Also, if anyone has an outer spike dog for the above saw, please pm me.
 
hamish

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The studs for the 288 are tapered, you'll need an accurate caliper or micrometer to establish the taper, I have yet to see it with my blind eye. If you plan on re-using the existing bar stud, apply some bearing lock to it on the surfaces that meet the hole in the case, or you will find it wandering again. Even with a new stud, previous wear in the case hole from a loose stut will require a locking/bonding agent.

What actully bonds the originals in place is friction between the two surfaces.
 
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Moss Man

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Another thing that has come up with this particular saw is the aftermarket clutch/brake cover doesn't have the threaded hole for the screw that would hold on the outer spike/dog. The bolts/nuts will hold it on anyhow.....
 
TRI955

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Another thing that has come up with this particular saw is the aftermarket clutch/brake cover doesn't have the threaded hole for the screw that would hold on the outer spike/dog. The bolts/nuts will hold it on anyhow.....

If you look in the IPL, it shows a bolt and a nut to hold the outer bucking spike on.
 
nmurph

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pete, if you need a cover, i think i have one in the shop. it does not have the brake band, but if you have the parts, you can swap them out.....i'm still layed up with the shoulder, but maybe i can get out tomorrow and take a look. let me know if you want me to look.
 
Moss Man

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pete, if you need a cover, i think i have one in the shop. it does not have the brake band, but if you have the parts, you can swap them out.....i'm still layed up with the shoulder, but maybe i can get out tomorrow and take a look. let me know if you want me to look.

I found an outer spike dog on Ebay and pulled the trigger on that, I think I'll just use the aftermarket cover and let the bar bolts hold it on.

The saw is kind of an oddity, it's a custom and the entire outside has been repainted with Husqvarna Orange. If I swap back to an original cover it might not match asthetically.

Thanx for offering up the cover, I'll email you if what I have here doesn't work.
 
Brad101

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Be sure the stud bases are in the right position inside the crankcase, there is a slot they fit into. Drain all the oil out and look through the oil filler hole to make sure. You can also drive them into position through the oil hole.

You can ruff them up with a hack saw, a couple shallow slots on each side, clean everything well, use a bearing locker of somekind then put them back in. Take a close look at both sides of each stud hole in the crankcase to check for small cracks. I have seen a lot of those cases crack around the stud holes.
 
Moss Man

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Be sure the stud bases are in the right position inside the crankcase, there is a slot they fit into. Drain all the oil out and look through the oil filler hole to make sure. You can also drive them into position through the oil hole.

You can ruff them up with a hack saw, a couple shallow slots on each side, clean everything well, use a bearing locker of somekind then put them back in. Take a close look at both sides of each stud hole in the crankcase to check for small cracks. I have seen a lot of those cases crack around the stud holes.

I have some of the blue Loctite threadlocker, I wonder if that would be sufficient? I bought a tube when my neighbors Husqvarna 353 kept losing muffler bolts.
 
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Grande Dog

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Howdy,
Stack of flat wasers to pull it into place. If the studs loose, I'd always just took a center punch and put a half dozen or so dimples in the shoulder of the stud.
Regards
Gregg
 
Moss Man

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I need to examine them for wear a little closer and consider new ones. I was leary of the red loctite, I might sell the saw and don't want the next guy having trouble removing them next time.

Thanx Grande, I will try that if they fit loose.
 
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