splitting big rounds

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I try to cut them at 15 - 16 inches to keep them lighter and still sellable . I did have it flip up on me one time. The verticle just doesn't work that great. The log tilts back and the wedge barely hits wood
 
This looks like a job for......(wait)......

ME!

Nice looking pile and workout--give a splitter or give me death.
 
I guess if I laid a couple 2 X 6's around the base to keep the log level the vertical would work but then I have to spin the half's around. This seems to work real good. I tilt the loader down a little after the first split and use it as a table and never half to bend down to pick wood up. I stack the splits in the loader and dump on the pile.
 
I have the same splitter, Version 2.0. Works better now. I use different height rounds to get big rounds onto the beam. Just lift onto a 12" high one then roll up to next size until I get it onto the beam. Split in half then half stays on the table while I split the 1st half. oops mine is the 28 ton, just that's why it looks different than yours.
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2X4 on the ground next to the foot plate will level the round nicely when the beam is in the vertical position. I split a bunch of largish rounds with my DHT that way...worked fine.
 
Those aren't that big. Anything over 30" diameter cut to 22"" in length is getting into big wood territory. When one round fills a hoop or more you know your really in the "big stuff".
 
Pretty sure that speeco 28 does both Vertical and Horizontal.
Go vertical and split all the big rounds to decent easy to lift sizes at once.
Then split everything without more than normal lifting.

My speeco 22 easily splits very big rounds 30" + of rock elm on the ground.
All you need is a brick and leaver to lift the edge of the round up then slide splitter under and pop it's 1/2 the weight, pop it's 1/4.
Knock over all the rounds flat on the ground and go nuts :0
No heavy lifting at all.
 
If you don't have vertical mode two solutions remove lifting.
#1 Dig a trench the splitter will just fit into that the feed bar is level with the ground then roll big rounds right onto it.
One end of the trench with a slope so it's easy to roll the splitter into anytime you have big rounds to do.
#2 1 sheet of 1" plywood attached to one side of the splitter rail at the feed area and you can roll them onto the splitter, be on solid ground for that or the roll up round might topple things, or pin the plywood sheet down into the ground to stop the weight change.

Low tech simple solutions :)
 
I have a TW-6 Timberwolf and love the log lift. Once in a while it get into some rounds that are in the 45 to 50 inch range. The log lift will lift them, but it about wears me out rolling them to the lift. What I found works excellent is a set of skidding tongs to lift the round onto the splitter. You dont have to worry about crashing the bucket into the splitter. Try it sometime, I think you will lile the results.

Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk 2
 
I have a TW-6 Timberwolf and love the log lift. Once in a while it get into some rounds that are in the 45 to 50 inch range. The log lift will lift them, but it about wears me out rolling them to the lift. What I found works excellent is a set of skidding tongs to lift the round onto the splitter. You dont have to worry about crashing the bucket into the splitter. Try it sometime, I think you will lile the results.

Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk 2
I have thought about trying that. I do bump the splitter once in awhile. I make sure I keep the log all the way to the left side and it helps some. I do worry about the log rolling out and taking out the engine.
 
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timberwolf is the way to go
 
For the life of me I don't know why all you guys think you need a splitter.
The nice straight grained white oak blocks you have will split easy with any kind of splitting maul with no lifting involved at all. I have two splitters but of the 30 cords I made this winter, 95% was split by hand with a Fiskars, all it takes is a little effort.
 
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