Splitting something you know you shouldn't..
- Thread starter blkcloud
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I'm pretty sure the are grade 5.
I think you got by pretty good considering the length of time it actually lasted. I will suggest on the rebuild that you make the slide a little longer and maybe top plate the top flange with a little extra metal for insurance and it should last another 30years, or longer.
My spliter with the 5in bore cyl has a 12in long slide but it is made of 1in thck metal. My current splitter will be using a 16in long slide, also made out f 1in thick material. but it has a twin 4.5in cyl. I top plated my beam flange with an exra 1/2in thick plate to make the flange 1in thick total on both build, more than adequate for my old splitter, just hopeing it will do on the new one.
husqvarna257
ArboristSite Operative
I know your pain. I built a 13 hp 22 gal per min with a 5" cylinder splitter. One day I tried to split a crotch log like the and bent my push plate and snapped the weld for the rear cylinder mount. Now I just toss the trouble logs into the OWB for overnight burning.
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My 36" splitter I used 1" steel about 12" square and angled the sides with the same material. Slide is about 12" long too. Put 5 pcs x 1/2" bolts in it but didn't used hardened bolts so they would act as a shear bolts.
EXCALIBER
ArboristSite Guru
Sure now you tell us, I could have used that. I bet it weighs way more than 2000lbs. My beam is 12x12 about half inch if memory serves and it's over 400 lbs at 6 ft length.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
I dunno, I hauled it plus another dozen smaller ones in my one ton truck.
Ya don't always have to noodle all the way through just a good starter slot is usually enough. Had pretty much anything that can happen to a splitter happen if it envolves the slide, foot plate, , wedge ,rear cylinder mount , hoses, valves, beam and bolts. 16 years on the same pump, cylinder and Eng. and I split 10 or more cord a year, But Murphy is always lurking.
garyischofield
ArboristSite Operative
I know the feeling of dealing with the broken top flange.It happened to me 2 months ago.The beam ,although being approximately 12"x 5",had some issues.When I initially built the splitter 5 years ago the steel cut and welded strangely.I have split 4-500 cord through it since then with a 6" long push plate.Too short.The keeper plates under the flange were continually bending along with bending the 1/2" bolts.The beam flange developed stress cracks where the flange met the vertical web.I welded those up but eventually it was unrepairable.I cut the flange where it met the top of the web and welded in a piece of 5/8"plate the width of the original flange.The new piece starts an inch from the base of the wedge and stops behind the rear end of the pushplate in the retracted position.4 hour,short money fix.
WOW! that is an amazing picture!!...
some things I do to help make the chunk yield, when yielding is not in its plans, like crotches and knots: ensure my engine is running very clean engine oil. I change it after a full day of splitting. 6-8 hrs. adds noticeable power, (throttle response crispness) - I split at a bit back of WOT. and I also ensure oil up to FULL mark or skosh over. I judiciously use a lot of 30-wt engine oil on all of my ram's slider edges, in front of and top of the I-beam. to the point it can get drippy on sides, hence I have newspaper underneath to keep off pavement. also, in addition I use a lot of anti-seize on sides and in front of the ram. doing these things keeps the metal from wearing, cupping and reduces friction noticeably therefore allowing the full psi of the splitter to push onto and thru the wedge. helps with any rust, too! lol not too long ago, I upped these efforts to also lube up the wedge and... even, the chunk! often the chunk, as in if its a twisty, gnarly one. I use gear oil; 80-wt. put some in a tin can and with a brush, brush away! really make a B-I-G difference in the overall splitter's effectiveness. stuff I could not split, would not split will once some gear oil painted on... I don't like it when the chunk wins, and always like it when me and my splitter wins!
some things I do to help make the chunk yield, when yielding is not in its plans, like crotches and knots: ensure my engine is running very clean engine oil. I change it after a full day of splitting. 6-8 hrs. adds noticeable power, (throttle response crispness) - I split at a bit back of WOT. and I also ensure oil up to FULL mark or skosh over. I judiciously use a lot of 30-wt engine oil on all of my ram's slider edges, in front of and top of the I-beam. to the point it can get drippy on sides, hence I have newspaper underneath to keep off pavement. also, in addition I use a lot of anti-seize on sides and in front of the ram. doing these things keeps the metal from wearing, cupping and reduces friction noticeably therefore allowing the full psi of the splitter to push onto and thru the wedge. helps with any rust, too! lol not too long ago, I upped these efforts to also lube up the wedge and... even, the chunk! often the chunk, as in if its a twisty, gnarly one. I use gear oil; 80-wt. put some in a tin can and with a brush, brush away! really make a B-I-G difference in the overall splitter's effectiveness. stuff I could not split, would not split will once some gear oil painted on... I don't like it when the chunk wins, and always like it when me and my splitter wins!
olympyk_999
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this guy^^^^^^^
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I change my oil regularly. I put new oil in the Speeco when I bought it years ago and when I put a new motor on it I will put new oil in it then too. Or I might change the oil next fall. I might be over 8 hours splitting though.
When I read the title I'm surprised fiddy hasn't put any snackie pics in here yet.
super3
Addicted to ArboristSite
That strap serves more than one purpose on a Lickity Splitter.
It has an open tube that slides onto a stationary o ringed end plate.
Take the strap off and both cylinders pull apart by hand.
Not a normal built cylinder.
Good to know. I haven't seen it in years, I just remembered the strap.
zogger
Tree Freak
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