kentl99
New Member
Here in Southern Oregon, the preferred fuel woods are black oak, white oak, and, especially, "silver" madrone. Less preferred hardwoods are alder, maple, and ash, typically burned in cases where the landowner happens to have them. We also have an abundance of conifers. Chief among them for fuel wood is Douglas Fir. It's considerably denser than the softer Ponderosa pines, plentiful, and between 70%-75% the BTUs of the hardwoods. Naturally, it's cheaper than hardwood.
As to splitting our fuel woods, if it's hardwood, split it as soon as possible after felling. It seems to me that the hardwood has a tough, fibrous grain. Perhaps the moisture in the green wood softens the bond in the cross-graining? Splitting these hardwoods once they've cured is a major job. If you split them green, they "pop" apart with a lot less effort.
If it's softwood/conifer, I let it dry through at least one full summer before splitting. Green, it's too spongy - the relatively higher moisture content right after felling seems to absorb the maul's blow. Luckily, Doug Fir is a straight-grained wood, and once the moisture content drops enough, it becomes brittle and splits easily.
As to splitting our fuel woods, if it's hardwood, split it as soon as possible after felling. It seems to me that the hardwood has a tough, fibrous grain. Perhaps the moisture in the green wood softens the bond in the cross-graining? Splitting these hardwoods once they've cured is a major job. If you split them green, they "pop" apart with a lot less effort.
If it's softwood/conifer, I let it dry through at least one full summer before splitting. Green, it's too spongy - the relatively higher moisture content right after felling seems to absorb the maul's blow. Luckily, Doug Fir is a straight-grained wood, and once the moisture content drops enough, it becomes brittle and splits easily.
