wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Now I understand why you guys slab three sides, the CSM does not go down the side of a bark covered log very nicely, not at all, and a crook or two really escalates the PITA factor.
Was playing with a 22" Silver maple this afternoon, the frame on the mill became a pivot point to see-saw the bar through the wood all the way down the log. Trying to keep the mill clear of the log while pushing was possible but didn't seem like a good idea, and was just more work. Without having a beam machine or other 2x6 rider type slabber, what works to slab the sides, freehand it on a chalk line, or rotate the log.
Working height is something else that is important, keeping the bar close to almost standing chest height seems ideal, very much more efficient use of forces then having the log too low, especially in a foot of snow. A set of sawhorses made for the task will be in order.
Has anyone tried a chain going under the log then around the cut face, so the cup on a floor jack can hook on it, then lift the log end up to block it high enough to get the jack under it.
Learning curve has started.
Was playing with a 22" Silver maple this afternoon, the frame on the mill became a pivot point to see-saw the bar through the wood all the way down the log. Trying to keep the mill clear of the log while pushing was possible but didn't seem like a good idea, and was just more work. Without having a beam machine or other 2x6 rider type slabber, what works to slab the sides, freehand it on a chalk line, or rotate the log.
Working height is something else that is important, keeping the bar close to almost standing chest height seems ideal, very much more efficient use of forces then having the log too low, especially in a foot of snow. A set of sawhorses made for the task will be in order.
Has anyone tried a chain going under the log then around the cut face, so the cup on a floor jack can hook on it, then lift the log end up to block it high enough to get the jack under it.
Learning curve has started.