Square logs good, round logs suck.

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wdchuck

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Now I understand why you guys slab three sides, the CSM does not go down the side of a bark covered log very nicely, not at all, and a crook or two really escalates the PITA factor.

Was playing with a 22" Silver maple this afternoon, the frame on the mill became a pivot point to see-saw the bar through the wood all the way down the log. Trying to keep the mill clear of the log while pushing was possible but didn't seem like a good idea, and was just more work. Without having a beam machine or other 2x6 rider type slabber, what works to slab the sides, freehand it on a chalk line, or rotate the log.

Working height is something else that is important, keeping the bar close to almost standing chest height seems ideal, very much more efficient use of forces then having the log too low, especially in a foot of snow. A set of sawhorses made for the task will be in order.

Has anyone tried a chain going under the log then around the cut face, so the cup on a floor jack can hook on it, then lift the log end up to block it high enough to get the jack under it.

Learning curve has started.:laugh:
 
Woodshop has some excellent pictures posted of how he uses horses to cut on. He uses the floor jack that you have mentioned. Im sure that he will be along soon to tell you where to look for his pics. Did you not use a guide board or rail for your first cut?
 
Guide board is used for every cut, today was a 2x10, had enough overhang to support both rails for starting the cut. Familiar with Woodshops methods.
 
Has anyone tried a chain going under the log then around the cut face, so the cup on a floor jack can hook on it, then lift the log end up to block it high enough to get the jack under it.

Learning curve has started.:laugh:

Interesting... I have been digging a small hole under the end of the log to get the floor jack under, then raise the end of the log enough to block it, and continue raising from there. I will have to try the chain. Still have to get that chain under the log though, but seems easier than my digging a small hole.

Thanks
 
Guide board is used for every cut, today was a 2x10, had enough overhang to support both rails for starting the cut. Familiar with Woodshops methods.


Before buying the ripsaw, I tried using a 2x10 and my results were far from good. Now I use the 2x6 aluminum guide beams that came with the ripsaw and it made a lot of difference.

I would suggest either trying unistruts or the top half of an extension ladder. I've heard either will give good results.

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Went back and reread the first post. I really don't have a good answer other than rolling the log to find the best side for the first cut. Should have paid more attention :blush:
 
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