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Sold Stihl 028 super (Very clean)

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S Tebo

S Tebo

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Feb 18, 2013
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653
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Maryland
Got this gently used 028s on trade and need to move it for other projects, The only problem I can tell with this saw is the contact spring on the control shaft is just a touch finicky other than that really a very clean saw looking for 325.00 plus the ride. Looking for 325.00 pho Thanks JimView attachment 470166 View attachment 470167 View attachment 470168 View attachment 470169 View attachment 470170 View attachment 470172

Really nice deal right there! GLWS
 
S Tebo

S Tebo

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Messages
653
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it being a super and super clean, i dont think youre all that far off. seems like a lot of stuff gets posted but doesnt move during the holidays. GLWS!

I have three of these saws and love them. Like most saws, they respond very well to muffler mods- but you have to really open them up a lot. Most (but not all) have very restrictive internal baffles and I tried different methods to defeat them- either way, they must go. Once done, they will pull a 20" .325 set up with no issues at all and be very smooth for a saw of their age. Two of mine are in excellent condition and the third is almost a NIB condition saw. On average, I have paid $325-$350 PHO shipped for them. Your saw is very clean as well, so I believe that you are right where you should be price wise and wouldn't drop it much if at all. I would just let the dust of the holidays settle. GLWS
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jim rivers

jim rivers

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Nov 22, 2013
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218
Location
Washington St
I have three of these saws and love them. Like most saws, they respond very well to muffler mods- but you have to really open them up a lot. Most (but not all) have very restrictive internal baffles and I tried different methods to defeat them- either way, they must go. Once done, they will pull a 20" .325 set up with no issues at all and be very smooth for a saw of their age. Two of mine are in excellent condition and the third is almost a NIB condition saw. On average, I have paid $325-$350 PHO shipped for them. Your saw is very clean as well, so I believe that you are right where you should be price wise and wouldn't drop it much if at all. I would just let the dust of the holidays settle. GLWS
View attachment 472824 View attachment 472825 View attachment 472826 View attachment 472828
Did you make that deflector or purchase it ? Looks good !
 
redunshee

redunshee

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Oct 16, 2007
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Texas, but spend time in Vermont
I have three of these saws and love them. Like most saws, they respond very well to muffler mods- but you have to really open them up a lot. Most (but not all) have very restrictive internal baffles and I tried different methods to defeat them- either way, they must go. Once done, they will pull a 20" .325 set up with no issues at all and be very smooth for a saw of their age. Two of mine are in excellent condition and the third is almost a NIB condition saw. On average, I have paid $325-$350 PHO shipped for them. Your saw is very clean as well, so I believe that you are right where you should be price wise and wouldn't drop it much if at all. I would just let the dust of the holidays settle. GLWS
View attachment 472824 View attachment 472825 View attachment 472826 View attachment 472828

Like what u did. Did you enlarge the side holes on the baffle or just drill new holes on top. Can't figure how to access those side holes. Is that a Husky exhaust cover?
 
S Tebo

S Tebo

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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
653
Location
Maryland
Did you make that deflector or purchase it ? Looks good !

Sorry for the delayed replies, I was off-line for a few days with family in town for the holidays. Jim, I did not mean to derail you thread; but at least its getting bumped! Since you asked (and other people have PM'd me) about the deflectors- here's some info. The Husky brand square ones that Bailey's, etc. sell are nice, but too big to clear the plastics on many of my my saws and are typically around $14 ea plus shipping. I needed something with a lower profile and I got the idea from another AS member. The ones I use are "Claimshell Vents" (for thru hull wiring and bilge pumps etc.) from West Marine for $2-3 each- bonus! They come in Stainless or Chrome (Chrome is usually stocked and what I prefer). They are soft enough to shape/bend and easy to drill additional holes in as needed. I need to start using rivets, but so far Lock washers and red/high LocTite have been holding just fine.
1.jpg 3.jpg 2 Clamshell Vent.jpg

Like what u did. Did you enlarge the side holes on the baffle or just drill new holes on top. Can't figure how to access those side holes. Is that a Husky exhaust cover?

Yea, the side holes are a little tough to drill in the baffle. I use the same size drill (as the OEM side holes) to add as many holes as possible to the sides, front/face and top/back of the baffle. I drill from whatever angle I can (including the inside/exhaust side) to add as many additional holes as possible/wherever possible- although my OCD forces me to keep them all symmetrical- lol! Removing the whole baffle/cage with a Dremmell or air tool and a mini cut-off wheel is the best, but it is hard to cut it flush with the canister (enter OCD again...). Cutting off the front/face of the baffle is just as effective as Swiss cheesing it. I cut out the OEM side gill outlet, I add additional holes to the inside of the spark screen holder plate and I add the 1/2" dual port side outlet under the aforementioned side deflector. The performance gains are noticeable.
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Now that's a good look'n saw Tebo.

Thanks for being a CAD enabler Troy!;)
 

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