Stihl 075AV woes

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Bryan Duxbury

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I recently purchased a Stihl 075AV to use in an Alaskan mill. It worked when I bought it, started right up on first few pulls, though it needed a bit of tuning on the carb + idle settings to stay running after it started. I used it a few times while I was waiting for the proper bar and milling equipment to show up, and now that it's finally here I have started having a tough time.

First up, took a slab off a log no problem, so decided to go right back at it for the next slab. About 75% of the way through the saw started to sound a little off, and I was thinking maybe I ought to have put more gas in between slabs, so I stop it and set about pulling it out of the cut. That's when I noticed a suspicious piece of hardware sitting on top of the pile of sawdust... which turned out to be the saw's decompression valve! Yes, it had literally backed itself out and dropped due to vibration. I figured this was the source of at least some of the ragged performance, so I set about re-installing the valve.

Getting at the hex shank on that valve was a pain in the butt that required removing the air filter carrier to access the screws for the muffler. Once I'd figured that out and gotten the valve reinstalled, I goofed up and dropped one of the air filter carrier nuts down into the carb. Sigh. So I took out the carb, retrieved the nut, and went about putting everything back together, assuming that would be the end of it.

So I get the saw back down to my log and pick up where I left off. Now when I'm nearly done with the slab the saw really starts to underperform. Basically, as soon as the chain really starts to bite, the saw bogs down. I manage my way through the rest of the slab and then start prodding the saw to see what's going on. What seems to happen is that the saw is perfectly happy to idle, but after about 2-3 seconds of wide open throttle (even outside the cut), the saw starts to struggle and sounds like it's going to stall.

At this point I'm guessing that I messed something up with reinstalling the carburetor (hoses or something?) and decide to take it all apart and have a look. With the carburetor out, I checked the fuel pump and found a bunch of gunk in what I think was the fuel strainer, so I scraped it out; otherwise, everything looked ok. I also checked the opposite side (the metering chamber?) but everything "looked ok" and I'm not really sure what to expect in there anyway.

When I finally got everything back together, the result wasn't good. The saw still started up no problem after a few priming pulls, but now it's struggling both idling and at speed. I can't tell if I'm just super frustrated or genuinely lost here, but I would love some experienced folks to chime in with what I should investigate next.

One other thing I noticed is that the gasket between the air filter carrier and the carburetor looks like it was hand made at a later date - it's some kind of blue papery material. Not sure if this is likely to be the source of the problem, but I'd be happy to change it out if there was any chance it would improve things. What kind of material should I be sourcing to do this?
 
Hmm. Did you check that the decomp has sealed tightly? Have you checked the compression? What does the plug look like (I'm wondering if there is an air leak somewhere)? If the gasket is thick enough to seal, it seems it should be fine. Best of success getting it sorted out!
 
Update this morning: Tried to start it up again just to verify, and same behavior. Went and bought some carb cleaner, tore the whole thing down again, this time even taking out the adjustment screws and the needle, sprayed it down with carb cleaner, and took out the fuel strainer and really cleaned it thoroughly. Put it all back together... and now it seems OK again. It started up, stayed running even after I adjusted the idle to keep the chain from turning under no throttle, and doesn't die out when I give it full throttle.

So I guess TLDR is carb cleaner is magic?
 
OK, no sooner do I declare victory and take another slab off my log, then the decomp valve ejects itself from the body again. One slab! Not sure what to do with this thing to make it stay in... think I could use thread locker?
 
High temp thread locker should be good up to 450F which that part of the head should never hit if it's tuned right. Carb issues could start with the fuel lines and filter or the tank coating coming apart and sending crud to the carb. Might be worth inspecting the inside of the tank.
 
I happen to have a bottle of Loctite 272 (good to 450F) handy, so I think I'll give that a shot. I'm also probably going to rig up some sort of leash or cup to catch it the next time it decides to make a run for it.
 
There is a tiny washer that goes in before the decompression valve. It is necessary, or it will leak.
There are two styles of decompression valves.
If you have the one with 1/2" hex, that is the earlier version.
I usually can't get that deco valve sufficiently tight unless you take off the rear handle assembly. It's a PIA.
 
I got lucky the first time and the sealing ring dropped out basically into my hands. This time, it's gone. I'll have to see if the local shop carries a replacement, otherwise, I'm going to waiting for a mail order.
 
Yeah the decomp valve has always been an issue. I modded mine and put plenty of locktite on it. I do not use mine any way. You can make a gasket if you have patience. The carb should have the factory gasket and kit is not expensive. You are on the right track. Thanks
 
I happen to have a bottle of Loctite 272 (good to 450F) handy, so I think I'll give that a shot. I'm also probably going to rig up some sort of leash or cup to catch it the next time it decides to make a run for it.

I don't know the number but the Loctite Red is the good stuff. Don't want to have to remove anything that had Red on it.
 
I installed plugs on my saws that used to have decomps. Use red loctite on that. Any screw you remove must be re-installed with blue loctite. Pretty much everything vibrates loose on these saws.
 
On Deco plugs I use 266 red loctite. They take some muscle to get out, but it's not that bad.
If your 075/076 is in good condition internally, you NEED an elastostart, and a decompression valve unless you like yanking the saw off the ground.
 
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