Stihl 171 or 192 for carving?

[Waldhof]

I've been using a 1997 era Still 036 to rough out sculptures and some Arbortech attachments for anlge grinders to further refine until I'm ready to do detail with a variety of Foredom burrs, etc. Problem is the I need something to reach into deeper areas to rough out and maybe even do some rough detail. The Arbortech is too large and the Foredom too slow. The 036 is a little cumbersome especially with a 20" bar - but maybe I'm a wimp.

So here are my options and thoughts...

1...get a carving bar for the 036.
2...see if I can make the old Poulan electric work (its kind of underpowered)
3...get a dedicated carving saw.

Under option 3 I'm considering either the Stihl 171 or 192. The 192 is lighter and feels a little more maneuverable. The 171 is way cheaper. The Redmax has its attraction but I know and like Stihl and finding a repair place and supplies is way easier with Stihl.

Also, is one pair of chaps pretty much the same as any other?

Thoughts and suggestions?

Thanks
George

 

[fatgraderman]

Do they still make the ms170? The air cleaner on 170's is a little crappy, but the rest of saw is very docile. Nice starting and running- easy to change spur gear on too if you have to change chains on it. Never ran a 192.

 

[Waldhof]

Yes, the ms170 is still available and $20 cheaper than the ms171. I was attracted to the greater fuel efficiency and exhaust control on the 171.

 

[Time's Standing Stihl]

I believe they all have the same motor. Don't quote me, but I don't believe the 170 has any carb adjustment compared to the 171 or 192. The 192 is a couple pounds lighter than the other two and that is why I bought the 192 over the other two

 

[Waldhof]

The numbers on cc and power are the same between the three, so you may be right. Why is the 192 lighter? More plastic?

 

[fatgraderman]

IIRC even the 170 is lighter then the 171. Different chassis. The 192 is an arborist saw so magnesium parts.

 

[Waldhof]

IIRC even the 170 is lighter then the 171. Different chassis. The 192 is an arborist saw so magnesium parts.

so, the magnesium explains the higher cost? Would I be correct that this translates into greater durability and ability to handle longer run times? Basically, for carving purposes would the roughly $150 extra be worth it over the 171 or 170?

Thanks

 

[fatgraderman]

The magnesium contributes to lower weight for sure. I have the "bigger brother" ms200 and it's a nice carving saw(when it's running- that perticuar saw has been a lemon). Might not hurt to check the arborist side to see how the 192's have been. They are a pro-saw.

 

[Waldhof]

The magnesium contributes to lower weight for sure. I have the "bigger brother" ms200 and it's a nice carving saw(when it's running- that perticuar saw has been a lemon). Might not hurt to check the arborist side to see how the 192's have been. They are a pro-saw.

Good advice! I'll do that.

Thanks!

 

[timberjak]

It is worth the money to save the weight if your carving. The magnesium replaces the plastic crankcase.


Sent from my iPhone using my nose

 

[Waldhof]

What has your experience been with the 192? I've not found much on it and the significantly lower cost of the 171 is starting to trump the somewhat better feel of the 192.

 

[timberjak]

A couple lbs. carving is whats worth the money to me. I have carved for 27 years. My back tells me what and when goes or works. I dont run stihl. I burned up a plastic crankcase saw under heavy load. 9, 5 ft. Oak bears in a day is more than it could handle. A couple lbs. in a carving tool is noticeable. The cost is one sculpture or less.


Sent from my iPhone using my nose

 

[Dan@JBT]

I'm very new to carving, but plenty of experience with the 192 (climbing arborist/trainer), I think it's a great saw, easy to use and top handled; so can be used one handed, this has it's advantages but can be dangerous as your other hand can get in the way if you're not careful. I have No experience with the other saws mentioned but I can tell you the 201t is worth avoiding.

Dan

 

[Time's Standing Stihl]

Dan I believe the OP is talking about a 192c-e. Not the 192t. I love my rear handle 192. Very lightweight and reliable.

 

[Waldhof]

yep - talking about the CE - the rear handle is a must for my purposes. Still, its good to know that the 192 has respect regardless of configuration.

You guys are going to talk me into that pricey saw before this is over with

Thanks!

George

 

[bikemike]

Im not really a carver but id like to get into it. I did a couple owls for my wife with a echo 340 top handle saw. I think a rear handle saw would be a little easier to maneuver when it comes to rotating the saw during a cut. But that is coming from a total rookie

 

[fatgraderman]

Im not really a carver but id like to get into it. I did a couple owls for my wife with a echo 340 top handle saw. I think a rear handle saw would be a little easier to maneuver when it comes to rotating the saw during a cut. But that is coming from a total rookie

You're on your way carving wise. And I think you'll find a smaller rear handle more comfortable. Small bar as well if you're trying to work with a 16" or bigger.

 

[bikemike]

You're on your way carving wise. And I think you'll find a smaller rear handle more comfortable. Small bar as well if you're trying to work with a 16" or bigger.

Question for you. Would a small poulan or husky non work decent for the final saw work being the the bar and power head are not moving around in comparison to the saw grips?

 

[fatgraderman]

Others can probably help you better there. I have mostly Stihl and one Echo. The anti-vibe doesn't change much for me. My stuff is crude, and done out of spruce so it's even more crude (like comic strips crude). I find for myself, anything 14" and shorter bar wise, as small a tip on the bar as possible. The bars I'm using now are 12" 0.43. One is a dedicated solid nose carving bar, the other a "arborist" nose- it's got a sprocket but it's very small and the price wasn't bad. One's on a cheap 170. Air cleaner on it's a joke, but other then a carb kit, I've done nothing to it, just a docile easy to run saw. The other bar is on a ms200. Awesome saw now, but it took some sorting out, and was 3x the cost of the 170. There's a lot of good ones out there. Makita is a rebadged Dolmar and Hitachi is a rebadged Tanaka. Just find something you like.

 

[bikemike]

Others can probably help you better there. I have mostly Stihl and one Echo. The anti-vibe doesn't change much for me. My stuff is crude, and done out of spruce so it's even more crude (like comic strips crude). I find for myself, anything 14" and shorter bar wise, as small a tip on the bar as possible. The bars I'm using now are 12" 0.43. One is a dedicated solid nose carving bar, the other a "arborist" nose- it's got a sprocket but it's very small and the price wasn't bad. One's on a cheap 170. Air cleaner on it's a joke, but other then a carb kit, I've done nothing to it, just a docile easy to run saw. The other bar is on a ms200. Awesome saw now, but it took some sorting out, and was 3x the cost of the 170. There's a lot of good ones out there. Makita is a rebadged Dolmar and Hitachi is a rebadged Tanaka. Just find something you like.

Yeah il prolly stick with echo muffler modded or husky but i know how the sorting out things to make em work goes. Not always fun but the end result can be nice once figured out