Stihl Engine De-Carbonizer

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Hmm.. their fuel stabilizer claims to keep fuel fresh for up to a year, and they say it's for use in all 2 stroke and 4-mix engines... think it's any different than Stabil?

Ian
 
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Tough to say. I will look into it. I would venture to guess that it is different, as all Stihl oils, and chemical are proprietary blended for them. Omni does most of the mixing for Stihl.
 
dont know about this stuff--but--got some of the same type stuff from johnson--for my outboard--it worked!!!!!!!! no joke--run much better after application---so much so that i then tuned it up properly!!!!!!!!!
 
It's been around forever in the auto world.We originally saw it sold by Chrysler to get rid of carbon around the intake valves on the old 2.2's of the K-cars at the time.Due to short intake runners/heat/etc,etc, these engines had a bad carbon issue.I've seen it bring compression back from 50psi up to 150psi-no sheep.Definately a good product if you have a carbon problem but I wouldn't use it any more than I had to or as a prevent. maint. thing.
 
There are two different products being discussed here. Fuel stabilizer, sold by Sta-Bil, STIHL, Briggs & Stratton, and I am sure by others, is added to fuel to prevent oxidization and prolong shelf life. I use it in every 5 gallon can I bring home, and mix my two-stroke out of that, and my carb goo problems are gone. I pulled my TORO Suzuki two-stroke out of the shed the other day, and it had been sitting for 6 months, started right up. I used to have to de-slime the carb if it sat for a month, since the bowl has a huge atmospheric vent.

The de-carbonizer STIHL is marketing is mainly for the four-stroke blower and trimmer that uses a pre-mix. In some areas of the country, not all, these engines are getting carbon deposits on the ex valve, and when a leak down test shows anything over 10%, the engine will lose performance. The EDTA de-carbonizing liquid can be poured through the spark plug hole, with both valves open on overlap with the piston at TDC. Let it sit overnight and flush it out, run the motor, then do the leak down test again. I have seen it take a motor with 20% down to 5% with one treatment. Best use is probably to just do it twice a year if carbon buildup is a problem. The new Ultra full synthetic oil has shown to do a good job of keeping carbon problems away.
It would work on a two-stroke, but since there are no metel to metal sealing, like valves and seats, carbon problems don't cause as much trouble.
 
SeaFoam is great and there is also a product by Lucas, but I forget the complete product name.

I recently ran a tank with some SeaFoam through my 10 year old snow blower, and now it blows snow about 5 ft farther. ;)

One warning I have heard, using this stuff on an engine with fuel injectors can cause them to move out of adjustment because of some tempoary pressure build up at the injectors. I think it can happen when you are doing the SeaFoam directly into the throttle body.
 
..another warning - EDTA is dangerous to health - significantly more so than most of the nasty stuff we use... use it outside... and don't spill it on yourself.
 
..another warning - EDTA is dangerous to health - significantly more so than most of the nasty stuff we use... use it outside... and don't spill it on yourself.

I have just looked up the COSHH information on EDTA and I couldn't find anything particularly sinister. I have used it occasionally to remove lead sulphate from car batteries that have been idle. If it is that nasty I really ought to find out more. Is it the EDTA itself or the carbon removing compound that contains it that is dangerous?

Thanks for flagging up the issue.

Big feller
 
Yep, I got that one wrong!!! There's some really nasty junk in the shop that I've confused it with the EDTA... Now I need to go find what the bad stuff is.. Must have been inhaling the wrong one all along.:biggrinbounce2:
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I am going to try this in an old carboned up blower we have and see what the results are.
 
You may be not to far off Lakeside

I'll bet there is some nasty fumes on first start up after using the EDTA. It acts as a chelation flush which removes any metal deposits which pretty much all modern 2 stroke oils have added these days......those extra metallic smoke particles can cause some bad effects on par with welding zinc coated steel.......not permanently harmful but can make you feel pretty sick for a while

I am glad you guys brought this product to my attention as I do use it in batteries and I can't get EDTA powder from the local pharmacy anymore.
 
There is also a product made by Valvtect called "Carbon Free" that I now use instead of Yamaha's proprietary "Ring Free" in my 2-stroke outboard. "Carbon Free" is a little cheaper per gallon, though they recommend a higher dosage than the Ring Free so maybe it's a wash...

I hear Seafoam is good stuff, as well as the Lucas Fuel Treatment, but I only use them in 4-stroke motors...
 

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