Stihl ms260 question

[Frank Rizzo]

Ok. Any other mods I should do? I'm not opposed to putting a bigger piston and jug on it either. I want to get the most power I can out of it and still be reliable. I have a ms361, ms391, and ms460 so I don't have to have this saw up and running right away. I bought as a project wanting to put new stock plastics , tank, and everything on it and do whatever I can to the engine too

If everything is in tolerance and is tight ya might want to consider some flow enhancements! Here’s a later version STIHL MS 261c 16” b/c that moves right along without fuel economy suffering

 

[huskihl]

If everything is in tolerance and is tight ya might want to consider some flow enhancements! Here’s a later version STIHL MS 261c 16” b/c that moves right along without fuel economy suffering

Do you have any vids of an 026? A 261 is no more similar to an 026 than a husky 346. Totally different saw

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Do you have any vids of an 026? A 261 is no more similar to an 026 than a husky 346. Totally different saw

No I do not sir , I don’t own one/haven’t modded one ... that being said a good Saw mechanic/builder should be able to improve the performance of any Saw! I’m just concentrating/ mastering the 241c,261c and 362c for the present time ... I cut/process A **** ton of timber and know what works and what doesn’t ... I do the experimentation on MY personal saws so I have the knowledge!

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Do you have any vids of an 026? A 261 is no more similar to an 026 than a husky 346. Totally different saw

Yah , just did a quick search and the 026 has dual transfers ala the 660 the 261 has quad-transfers so yes a different approach wood be needed but idears STIHL the same

 

[Nathan Hopple]

How much would you charge to Port a saw

 

[huskihl]

How much would you charge to Port a saw

PM sent

 

[drf255]

Do you have any vids of an 026? A 261 is no more similar to an 026 than a husky 346. Totally different saw

Huh?

 

[huskihl]

2 port side fed age-old design vs 4 port bottom fed strato

 

[rd35]

Hey Nathan I just read through this thread and I just want to add one thing. Take a look at your clutch drum around the outer edge of its largest diameter. On the edge there should be a little notch. There will also be a little scribed line on the outer face of the clutch drum that is in-line with that notch. This notch is where the drive tang (wire) engages to run your oiler worm. I have an early (1st year I think) non-pro MS260. My oiler is not adjustable but it is, indeed, driven by the clutch drum . So, my saw can idle without pumping oil on the ground. And, yes, I got it brand new from the dealer and have not changed a thing!
I say this because you have to be very careful installing the clutch drum to be sure you correctly engage that oil pump driver. Otherwise it puts the drum in a bind and can damage the oiler worm drive. To install it correctly you have to look around the outer edge of the clutch shoes until you see the end of the worm drive. Looks like a litte piece of baling wire sticking up just past the edge of the clutch shoes. Then you line up the little scribed line on the drum face with that wire so the notch in the drum will engage the wire. You'll find that when the wire goes into the notch then the drum fits nicely in place and the washer and E-clip will install easily as well.