Stihl MS260

[wood man]

I have dragged out one of my old saws.
It sat for years so in need of some tlc.

I can get her started, but only briefly, and will not rev.
So fuel is going through but seems it is getting stopped soon after.
I am thinking the carb diaphrams are crusty. If i down the saw for a few hours or another day, again it will start, then again no throttle and dies.
No amount of pulling will then get her to run again.

I did a vacum and compression test at 5psi, and all very good, so good on Stihl.
I also love Husky's equally well, and these were my main saws from the past for softwoods as both are good, and both are totally different to work on.
Stihl's are fiddly, but easy when you have done a few over time, as they soon strip down to there base components, leaving you just the crank-case, barrel and piston in place, and the crank bearing.
So no leaks in the crank-case, where usually they start to leak at the bearing seal behind the flywheel, and mine is still good, as in the seal is still working. Piston and barrel are also very clean, no scorring, marks or burnt parts on the piston.

I have checked the barrel to carb rubber, also still very plyable and not worn or thin or leaks.
I also did the crankcase rubber vent pipe from the back of the carb to the crankcase as had a spare one from left over kits.
Alao did new petrol tank rubber and filter while at it.

I think it might be a case of just do a new carb gasket kit and go from there.
Does this sound the best way forward at this stage?

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I think it might be a case of just do a new carb gasket kit and go from there.
Does this sound the best way forward at this stage?

Good cleaning and a carb kit is a good place to start for a long sitting saw. Thing to find out is if it's flooding or starving is the reason it's cutting out. See how wet the plug is. Once I learned you can sometimes start a flooded saw by holding the throttle down while pulling, it helped me diagnose flooding or starving a lot quicker - though a wet or dry plug is usually a giveaway too. Either way, a new diaphragm and a good cleaning should hopefully set you right. I bought a Vevor ultrasonic cleaner for about $60 and it's become my new best friend for carb cleaning. So much more thorough than just soaking in gas, particularly for really gummy buildup.

 

[wood man]

Thanks Coralillo Lo Pro.
and yes on the Sonic cleaner, as I was looking into getting one, and you have now convinced me they are a best way forward.
Not sure what size to get, as the bigger sized ones seem to suddenly go through the roof on price. I am thinking one just big enough to hold a large carb will do me.

I opened the carb and the bottom gasket as I took it off split off of course, then I saw the diaphram was worn and almost disintigrating, so petrol getting through only a bit at a time, then of course getting starved as soon as i got her going.
Pulled the plug, and yes, it was dry as soon as i get her to run.
So leaving ti for a few hours allowed enough petrol mix through to fire her up and this is as far as it gets at the moment.

Got a new gasket kit on order from flee-bay, which comes with a few other new inner parts, including a new needle valve. I went for the more expensive kit from Stihl as this is a once in its lifetime rebuild so I don't mind the extra expense.

The other end with the rubber diaphram and the little alloy round disc where it sucks the petrol in is still okay, but as this is in the kit coming, I'll swap it out also.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Thanks Coralillo Lo Pro.
and yes on the Sonic cleaner, as I was looking into getting one, and you have now convinced me they are a best way forward.
Not sure what size to get, as the bigger sized ones seem to suddenly go through the roof on price. I am thinking one just big enough to hold a large carb will do me.

I had to judge the size just big enough to clean decent carbs. I bought the 2 liter which sounds like a lot but in fact the useable space in the basket seems like it maybe holds half a liter of cleaner and is about right for carbs. The Vevor model only costs $52.99 over here now, I forget what I paid, seemed like more.

Can be absolutely worth it to get the proper OEM kits, when it's once every blue moon or maybe only once ever you'll need to rebuild it. I'd only gone deep into my 40 year old Stihl 045 and 056 Supers, which are pretty easy to break down to the basics as you said but the 361 I just fixed up seemed easier. Pretty much all I had to do to pull the jug was take the handle and muffler off, was able to leave most everything else in place. I never had paid attention to what Stihls were what in the small and mid sizes, but best I can tell 260/261, 361/362, and 461/462 are the top quality pro saws, the ones to have for life. A recently retired arborist friend of mine loves the 261 he got last year. I have considered 13 lb saws to be my "light" ones until now, but I wouldn't mind a 10 lb saw.

 

[wood man]

but best I can tell 260/261, 361/362, and 461/462 are the top quality pro saws, the ones to have for life.

I cannot even remember when or where I bought this saw, now this is bad. The MS260 is one beautiful little light saw that can swing off your arm all day long on the cutting off of branches on the softwoods.

I cannot fault either brand, Stihl or Husqvarna, as both have merits. Modern ones have easier starting and better cooling efficency, and still with plenty of grunt when needed.

I am going to try and see if i can also resurrect some old Husqvarna 50's from back in the 1980's, 1990's two 50's and one 55. Excellent firewood saws back then and first thinnings.

I found a 2.5l Ultra Sonic Cleaner on flee-bay. £72 delivered and ordered it. Timer, but also will heat the water too.
Definitely an invention that is a great way forward from blowing out and washing out dirt and fine particles with-in.

I thought i was retired, but no, still getting little jobs from others for firewood and helping manage little plots of forests they have bought, plus being able to work on 2-4 stroke engines also seems to have me doing a few quads for farmers these days too, including gearboxes, clutches and auto trannies.
Add to this list, ride-on mowers also.
I am just waiting on a farmer with a chinese quad to be fixed, as i know it will happen

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I thought i was retired, but no, still getting little jobs from others for firewood and helping manage little plots of forests they have bought, plus being able to work on 2-4 stroke engines also seems to have me doing a few quads for farmers these days too, including gearboxes, clutches and auto trannies.
Add to this list, ride-on mowers also.
I am just waiting on a farmer with a chinese quad to be fixed, as i know it will happen

I've found that if you can fix things, you're always in demand. Niche high end woodworking is supposed to be my main line of work, but what I do is more like an artist who needs a following to be successful - I don't work much on demand, I create works and hope people will buy them. So that's been a very erratic income while I try to build a following. Being able to fix anything allows me to pay the bills and put food on the table a lot of the time. Just one tree service guy I know who hooks me up with wood for milling sometimes is constantly bringing me repairs - chainsaws, pole saws, blowers, trailer flat tires, truck issues, whatever the latest broken thing is. The local Stihl dealer takes weeks to get parts in and make repairs, and I can fix same day if don't need to order parts and even get parts in a couple days and get it back to him. He can't afford down days, so he sees me as some kind of miracle worker. Could easily do this full time for a living but not what I want to do full time.

My ultrasonic cleaner has the timer and heater, too, super nice. I'd heard of them for years but thought they were some kind of expensive specialty thing, didn't know they'd made them affordable and small.

The 80's/90's Huskies should be well worth fixing up. I'm selling my first gen 455 Ranchers after fixing some little issues and putting chainbrakes on them for the first time, cause they're good solid saws but consumer grade and the 361 I just fixed up is a far better, lighter and more powerful pro saw. People on some milling forums thought it wasn't worth the bother I put into my 045 and 056 Supers to make them active working saws again rather than selling them to collectors and buying Chinese clone saws for milling. They were massive headaches to rebuild due to quirky proprietary bearings/seals made of unobtainium and problematic early electronic ignitions that Stihl soon evolved past, and my first total saw rebuilds too so a big learning curve. But everything else in comparison has been easy since. The 066/660 is no doubt a hands down better saw, but the 045/056 Supers are a pretty nice 87cc saw and great workhorses for milling, and 661 prices are out of sight these days.