Super EZ Auto Parts and Oiler Question

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87iroc

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I have a late 70s model Super EZ Automatic. My dad gave it to me a few weeks ago and I'm trying to get it ready to start cleaning up trees around my house. I have a new bar and chains from Baileys...but now I want a few other things.

First the Oiler question: When I hit the oiler plunger, a trickle of oil comes out of the oiler hole in the case by the chain. Is this normal or should there be a more substantial flow?

Alright, as for parts, I need the following. Oil and Fuel caps, sprocket(3/8), fuel filter, and air filter element. I also would like to rebuild the oiler plunger if possible. Where should I get parts from such as these? Are there any prefered places you guys use for these obscure parts?

One last question, I was looking at one site and they had a automatic oil pump listed...but it was pricey. Is that inside the saw?

Oh, OK, one more. I saw a Clymer Chainsaw repair manual, for a newby like me, would it be useful to purchase that?

Thanks,

Greg
 
Oh?

It doesn't take much oil, and manual oilers are fairly reliable. Might just need to work the bubbles out of it.

make sure you are using the right fuel mix (16:1 ??)

If you are new to using a saw, please be careful.

-Pat
 
Pat,

The SEZ is one of teh best saws built by Homelite. As for the oiler as it was already mentioned it is fine. Shoot me a PM or email with part requests if you do not find them within the next 2 days.

Bill
 
I got a Super EZ too and the label says 16:1 on it. I had the carb screws set to the standards for that model carb and had been using 32:1. It had been running and ideling pretty good. Today I put some 50:1 in it and it didn't want to idle. I don't know if thats the cause, but I would go with the 32:1.

This site has 3/8 sprocket and air filter I think http://www.mfgsupply.com/ChainSaw.html
 
Last edited:
What bar did you get from Bailey's?

I'm pretty sure the carolton closeout bar that fits the SEZ takes 325 chain.
 
The manual oiler on my Super EZ Automatic causes a strong welling of oil to come up around the chain when I press it. Gene Gauss
 
retoocs555 said:
What bar did you get from Bailey's?

I'm pretty sure the carolton closeout bar that fits the SEZ takes 325 chain.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

As for the bar, It's a Carolton closeout, but it's not the one you were thinking of, it was a 3/8 59 tooth model. I accidently checked the wrong one when I was ordering and they corrected me.

I'm new to using this saw and far from a professional user, but I have enough respect for what they can do to be careful!! Thanks

Bill, I'll contact you if I can't find what I need. There's one guy from Ohio on ebay that has at least the sprocket I need.

I'll play with the oiler some more. I just don't want to burn up my new chains and bar right away with not enough oil getting to it. This saw was 'like new' when my dad bought it in the late 70s or early 80s and has not been well taken care of. Used, put up, used put up. CLeaned maybe once.

The first time I tried to use it, that whole area was packed with sawdust, so I think that was really impeding oil flow. I used alot of brake cleaner on it and it cleaned everything out.

Thanks again,
 
As long as we're talking about Homelite Oilers...Ive got a 1978 XL that has the automatic oiler, and it doesnt work.

It has the tank, and a line going into the crankcase, then one line out of the tank going to the oiler exit port by the bar.

Ive removed and cleaned out all parts, including the tank. The hoses are original, and dont leak a drop.

It will NOT oil at all, as far as I can tell. If I fill the oil tank, the saw smokes visciously for 3-4 minutes, then stops smoking, then smokes badly if you turn the saw on it side.

It appears as if it is sucking oil into the little presure line going to the block. Correct me of Im wrong, but isnt that supposed to pressurize the tank, then push oil into the bar oiler port?

Any Ideas?

Also, to the original poster, A little trickle should be sufficient, 2-3 pushes may be required when you go to use it. SOme saws squirt a whole bunch of oil with 1 push, but most of it is slung off the tip anyways. Id rather use a little, and not waste it.
 
RED-85-Z51 said:
As long as we're talking about Homelite Oilers...Ive got a 1978 XL that has the automatic oiler, and it doesnt work.

It has the tank, and a line going into the crankcase, then one line out of the tank going to the oiler exit port by the bar.

Ive removed and cleaned out all parts, including the tank. The hoses are original, and dont leak a drop.

It will NOT oil at all, as far as I can tell. If I fill the oil tank, the saw smokes visciously for 3-4 minutes, then stops smoking, then smokes badly if you turn the saw on it side.

It appears as if it is sucking oil into the little presure line going to the block. Correct me of Im wrong, but isnt that supposed to pressurize the tank, then push oil into the bar oiler port?

Any Ideas?

Also, to the original poster, A little trickle should be sufficient, 2-3 pushes may be required when you go to use it. SOme saws squirt a whole bunch of oil with 1 push, but most of it is slung off the tip anyways. Id rather use a little, and not waste it.

They used a couple different methods. The type that pressurizes the tank needs to have 2 parts at the end of the line that gets pressure from the crankcase. One is the duckbill valve, the other is a porous cylinder that bleeds excess pressure off. Both parts should still be available.
 

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