blackwolf99
New Member
I would like to know when is the best time to plant hardy swamp white oak x bur oak hybrid, ash trees and how to properly take care of them. I live in Amherst, WI. and the soil here is sandy soil.Thank you
the best time to plant fast growning trees.
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I would like to know when is the best time to plant hardy swamp white oak x bur oak hybrid, ash trees and how to properly take care of them. I live in Amherst, WI. and the soil here is sandy soil.Thank you
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Since you live near Point, you shpuld be able to find some arborists easily.
You should be able to go ahead rather soon with the planting, the real hot weather should be behind you.
Ron Zillmer over at Midstate helped develop these planting standars.
1. feel the ball for woody roots protruding.
2. dig a hole the size of the ball to the depth found in step one.
3. carfully remove the soil down to the root
flair, unravel any encircling root and bury
them in trenches heading out form tyh ball.
4. If the woody roots look sound, remove any
adventiciouse roots from the trunk.
5. with a spade or fork, free up the soil around
the dug hole without disturbing the roots you
burried.
6. Water the ssoil in and dispose of any spoil
dirt.
7. Steak loosly.
He would probibly be able to direct you to a good nursery that will have sandy root balls.
Remember that with trees, smaller is better.
You should be able to go ahead rather soon with the planting, the real hot weather should be behind you.
Ron Zillmer over at Midstate helped develop these planting standars.
1. feel the ball for woody roots protruding.
2. dig a hole the size of the ball to the depth found in step one.
3. carfully remove the soil down to the root
flair, unravel any encircling root and bury
them in trenches heading out form tyh ball.
4. If the woody roots look sound, remove any
adventiciouse roots from the trunk.
5. with a spade or fork, free up the soil around
the dug hole without disturbing the roots you
burried.
6. Water the ssoil in and dispose of any spoil
dirt.
7. Steak loosly.
He would probibly be able to direct you to a good nursery that will have sandy root balls.
Remember that with trees, smaller is better.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Since you live near Point, you shpuld be able to find some arborists easily.
You should be able to go ahead rather soon with the planting, the real hot weather should be behind you.
Ron Zillmer over at Midstate helped develop these planting standars.
1. feel the ball for woody roots protruding.
2. dig a hole the size of the ball to the depth found in step one.
3. carfully remove the soil down to the root flair, unravel any encircling root and bury
them in trenches heading out form tyh ball.
4. If the woody roots look sound, remove any
adventiciouse roots from the trunk.
5. with a spade or fork, free up the soil around
the dug hole without disturbing the roots you burried.
6. Water the ssoil in and dispose of any spoil dirt.
7. Steak loosly.
He would probibly be able to direct you to a good nursery that will have sandy root balls.
Remember that with trees, smaller is better.
You should be able to go ahead rather soon with the planting, the real hot weather should be behind you.
Ron Zillmer over at Midstate helped develop these planting standars.
1. feel the ball for woody roots protruding.
2. dig a hole the size of the ball to the depth found in step one.
3. carfully remove the soil down to the root flair, unravel any encircling root and bury
them in trenches heading out form tyh ball.
4. If the woody roots look sound, remove any
adventiciouse roots from the trunk.
5. with a spade or fork, free up the soil around
the dug hole without disturbing the roots you burried.
6. Water the ssoil in and dispose of any spoil dirt.
7. Steak loosly.
He would probibly be able to direct you to a good nursery that will have sandy root balls.
Remember that with trees, smaller is better.
HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
John I am going to be planting an oak soon as well, but I dont know what an "adventiciouse root" is. Please advise so I can remove them.
Jen
ArboristSite Lurker
An adventitious root: by term is any root arising from a place where is does not normally arise, (cuttings, whips etc.) whether is be a response from rooting hormones or wounding, etc. of the like. It is different from "root hairs", which are an extension of the roots and are often the location of symbiotic mycorrihzae, and aid in the absorption of water and nutrients.
If the tree you are about to transplant has some adventitious rooting it has done so for a reason - wounding, extra stability etc.....
Technically - neither of these should be removed - but preserved as much as possible. If I have misunderstood what you are doing I apologize.
Jen McLean
If the tree you are about to transplant has some adventitious rooting it has done so for a reason - wounding, extra stability etc.....
Technically - neither of these should be removed - but preserved as much as possible. If I have misunderstood what you are doing I apologize.
Jen McLean
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
What is being recomended is that B&B stock be excivated to the root fair so that it is exposed.
Root will graft to root most of the time but will not graft to trunk sissue because they are stucturaly different. If the trunk is burried then adventisiouse or epicormic roots will develop and may encircle. Any encircling root the occupise the trunk expnation zone is potentialy a girdling root. If it is circling but in the root zone you probibly dont need to worry about it.
Now if the woody roots are damaged, you may need to leave these "trunk roots" on to support the tree. But maybe plant them exposed.
If youve ever dug up a stressed looking plant and seen roots that look like they were "plugged" into the tree, they are probibly adventiciouse and above the zone of rapid taper. they may be supporting the "dynamic tree" while root rot is destroying the srtuctural tree.
Am I making sence? Haure will be getting a vidio out hopefully soemtime next year acording to Zillmer.
Zillmer be at the WAA TCC/fielday in Mad. on 07/13 I'm sure he would be happy to talk to people about it.
Root will graft to root most of the time but will not graft to trunk sissue because they are stucturaly different. If the trunk is burried then adventisiouse or epicormic roots will develop and may encircle. Any encircling root the occupise the trunk expnation zone is potentialy a girdling root. If it is circling but in the root zone you probibly dont need to worry about it.
Now if the woody roots are damaged, you may need to leave these "trunk roots" on to support the tree. But maybe plant them exposed.
If youve ever dug up a stressed looking plant and seen roots that look like they were "plugged" into the tree, they are probibly adventiciouse and above the zone of rapid taper. they may be supporting the "dynamic tree" while root rot is destroying the srtuctural tree.
Am I making sence? Haure will be getting a vidio out hopefully soemtime next year acording to Zillmer.
Zillmer be at the WAA TCC/fielday in Mad. on 07/13 I'm sure he would be happy to talk to people about it.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
What is being recomended is that B&B stock be excivated to the root fair so that it is exposed.
Root will graft to root most of the time but will not graft to trunk sissue because they are stucturaly different. If the trunk is burried then adventisiouse or epicormic roots will develop and may encircle. Any encircling root the occupise the trunk expnation zone is potentialy a girdling root. If it is circling but in the root zone you probibly dont need to worry about it.
Now if the woody roots are damaged, you may need to leave these "trunk roots" on to support the tree. But maybe plant them exposed.
If youve ever dug up a stressed looking plant and seen roots that look like they were "plugged" into the tree, they are probibly adventiciouse and above the zone of rapid taper. they may be supporting the "dynamic tree" while root rot is destroying the srtuctural tree.
Am I making sence? Haure will be getting a vidio out hopefully soemtime next year acording to Zillmer.
Ron Zillmer be at the WAA TCC/fielday in Mad. on 07/13 I'm sure he would be happy to talk to people about it. He loves to infect people with knowledge.
Root will graft to root most of the time but will not graft to trunk sissue because they are stucturaly different. If the trunk is burried then adventisiouse or epicormic roots will develop and may encircle. Any encircling root the occupise the trunk expnation zone is potentialy a girdling root. If it is circling but in the root zone you probibly dont need to worry about it.
Now if the woody roots are damaged, you may need to leave these "trunk roots" on to support the tree. But maybe plant them exposed.
If youve ever dug up a stressed looking plant and seen roots that look like they were "plugged" into the tree, they are probibly adventiciouse and above the zone of rapid taper. they may be supporting the "dynamic tree" while root rot is destroying the srtuctural tree.
Am I making sence? Haure will be getting a vidio out hopefully soemtime next year acording to Zillmer.
Ron Zillmer be at the WAA TCC/fielday in Mad. on 07/13 I'm sure he would be happy to talk to people about it. He loves to infect people with knowledge.
HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Actually that helps a lot, especially the part about girdling. Thanks
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