The trick to re-coil springs!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

joe25DA

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Messages
4,744
Reaction score
3,931
Location
Holden, Ma
Right now I have 3 saws that need re-coil springs. So far progress has not been good. While attempting to put the spring into my dayton (s25da clone) for the 10th time, it did not recoil the rope, but after it sliced my hand open it did fly pretty hard off the wall of my garage. after calming myself, and patching my hand im ashamed to say i gave up and brought it to the shop. Is there an easy or correct wAY to get these springs in? I wrapped it as tight as possible, even tied it off with fishing line. nothing worked.
 
I know what you mean I hate those things they give me the raspberries and everything. I have threw them out in yard and broke um and said nasty words to um and about um. Like you said If I walk away and cool down then go back they somehow work better. Just take your time and work it in from the post end first. I don't know the secret but I take the rope out get the spring back in and then wind it up and put the rope back in.
Good luck, saw safe, and throw chips:chainsaw:
 
<a href="http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/article/Recoil_101/display.aspx">Here</a> is one way.

There should be a lot more write-ups that an internet search will turn up.

:cheers:
 
Sorry to hear about your hand. Some recoils you thread the spring into the housing while its relaxed. Meaning you feed the spring into the housing without winding it up first. After you have the spring in, you use the rope drum to set the preset tension.
Best wishes,
Bob
 
They were designed by the ancient Shao Lin monks to teach young grasshoppers Focus, Balance, Patience, Hand/Eye communication and the importance of being at peace with oneself.
THAT is the secret!
 
I always do what Bob has just suggested, wind the spring into the housing, then install the starter pulley over the spring and use the rope to wind it up. Most pulleys have a notch in them so you can wind it up with the rope fixed to the pulley.

On the old McCullochs (you get plenty of practice) I have said I could do it with my eyes closed, and have a time or two just to prove to myself it could be done.

I gave this lesson at Grandpatractor's GTG and only my brother Ed, rbmopar, and philbert took advantage of the opportunity. I guess the rest of the crowd were more interested in saws that would actually run and giving the log splitters a work out.

attachment.php


Mark
 
I agree,those little Poulan S25's are the worst.That shield in there just messes up everything.I made a jig out of a canning jar flat and ring that works pretty well.
attachment.php

As you can see,you punch a 1/2" hole in the center of the flat.Then cut a notch in the ring.(You will notice I cut away the raised edge from the ring,probably not necessary.)Then you put them back together.
attachment.php

Now the tricky part,you're going to wind the spring in reverse,hook the end of the spring in the slot and wind the spring into the ring.When you get it in the ring,line the hook up with the catch on the recoil and the hole goes over the post.Now push the flat down to slide the spring onto place as a unit.Works about half the time,best method I've found for these saws.Good luck.
 
OK I'll let you in on it..... -->HERES<-- the secret. :D

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bRdQ-Di4sts&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bRdQ-Di4sts&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Exspensive??? Yes and worth every penny. :laugh:
 
Last edited:
Nice tool,I think I'll stick to the jar lid for now.I don't want to give up my amateur status.
 
OK I'll let you in on it..... -->HERES<-- the secret. :D

Exspensive??? Yes and worth every penny. :laugh:

Well that would have been nice to have about a month ago. Maybe my spring wouldnt be rolled up into a ball and thrown in the corner of the garage if I had that handy bugger.
 
Right now I have 3 saws that need re-coil springs. So far progress has not been good. While attempting to put the spring into my dayton (s25da clone) for the 10th time, it did not recoil the rope, but after it sliced my hand open it did fly pretty hard off the wall of my garage. after calming myself, and patching my hand im ashamed to say i gave up and brought it to the shop. Is there an easy or correct wAY to get these springs in? I wrapped it as tight as possible, even tied it off with fishing line. nothing worked.

Replaced many springs on my 3400's. Guys gave me a coupkle tips 1)Wind spring in your hands making sure loop is smaller then recoil opening. This takes some time and practice but it can be done. 2)Then using needle nose pliers grip wound spring very tightly and insert it in post of recoil housing. If spring is wound small enough it'll slip in. Then slowly loosen pliers and it'll fill recess.
 
OK I'll let you in on it..... -->HERES<-- the secret. :D

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bRdQ-Di4sts&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bRdQ-Di4sts&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Exspensive??? Yes and worth every penny. :laugh:

Looks fine for small saw. How big is the largest attachment? Will it do a 3-4in wrap?
 
Looks fine for small saw. How big is the largest attachment? Will it do a 3-4in wrap?

I just did one on a 5200 yesterday...my way. I take an old piece of 2-by lumber in this case a 2X8 a foot or so long. Take a small self tapping screw or nail and insert it into the board so that what's left exposed is no higher than the width of the edge of the spring. Place the outer hook of the spring around the nail and use your rewind sprocket inserted in the center to wind it up. That way you can tell how small to wind it. Most of the Poulans I work on need to be just small enough in diameter to fit under rewind sprocket with no edge showing. I then use a large nylon wire tie (about 10" long or longer works well) to hold the spring together. Cut off the tail of the wire tie and push down into the spring impression on the flywheel cover. Start with the outer loop hooked around the detente post and press it around til it's all in the recess and you're done. Works flawlessly for me...unless you forget something. Yesterday I left out a large spacer that goes next to the rewind sprocket and had to pull it off again, but fortunately it wasn't the one between the spring and the housing and I didn't have to rewind the spring. Has worked for me now with few problems. :)
 
Last edited:
Yep, just wind em up by hand outside the saw, secure with a pair of needle nosed vise grips and set em in.

Takes only seconds. Trying to rewind them springs inside the housings is sure to frustrate.

I have picked up alot of good saws for little to nothing because the owner tried to rewind the recoil and failed, so you guys just keep up the bad work! :)

(don't get mad, that was a joke)
 
I agree,those little Poulan S25's are the worst.That shield in there just messes up everything.I made a jig out of a canning jar flat and ring that works pretty well.
attachment.php

As you can see,you punch a 1/2" hole in the center of the flat.Then cut a notch in the ring.(You will notice I cut away the raised edge from the ring,probably not necessary.)Then you put them back together.
attachment.php

Now the tricky part,you're going to wind the spring in reverse,hook the end of the spring in the slot and wind the spring into the ring.When you get it in the ring,line the hook up with the catch on the recoil and the hole goes over the post.Now push the flat down to slide the spring onto place as a unit.Works about half the time,best method I've found for these saws.Good luck.

Well doing it your way, I can see why you think the S25 would be hard. In reality there about the same as anyother.
 
Replaced many springs on my 3400's. Guys gave me a coupkle tips 1)Wind spring in your hands making sure loop is smaller then recoil opening. This takes some time and practice but it can be done. 2)Then using needle nose pliers grip wound spring very tightly and insert it in post of recoil housing. If spring is wound small enough it'll slip in. Then slowly loosen pliers and it'll fill recess.

I use a needle-nose vise grip pliers. Then you can lock it and not worry about it!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Back
Top