The ultimate OverNight-Burn Thread !!

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Thanks! I was looking at my stove this morning, and as it is brick-lined, I'm not sure that I could tell by sight when it is hot enough... The bricks are not black, at all, lol. Also, I do not have a stove thermometer. Perhaps I should invest?

I am right now burning a small load full open to a) address any overnight creosote build-up - hopefully - and b) build a coal bed for some slower burns through out the day. I am not seeing any secondary combustion in the firebox, though I am also not seeing any smoke at the chimney. I think maybe its time to schedule a maintenance visit?

No smoke is not bad, but good:).
When the air controls are open you may not see the secondary combustion because of how the air flows in the stove and the wood will be burning. When the secondary combustion takes place(or is noticeable)is when you close that air controls.
When you first reload the stove it will take a minute for the wood to light depending on how dry the wood is. As the wood is lighting look at the color of the bricks and at the top inside of the stove, it should be darker in color. Continue to burn with the air controls open until you see the bricks and the top of the stove start to turn a light brown to white. You can begin to close the air controls at this time. When you close the air off you should see the secondary combustion begin. If the secondary combustion stops it is typically because the wood is moist which is basically putting out the fire. The other thing is there is not adequate draft which could be caused by many different things (this would be when you need to call for service). One that does not require service would be the outside temperature is not cold enough to close the air controls down very far, once again this is part of the learning process.
You should get a thermometer as it will help you "guage" where things are at. It will only tell part of the story and you will still need to adjust things as you learn.
 
Quadrafire Cumberland Gap wood stove

We burn 24/7 starting in November and ending in April. I pay close attention to my preparation for over night burns.

I burn nearly all Maple some 90% with a mix of Pine (only during the days), and the occasional Ash and Oak.

If possible I will burn Oak overnight, from 10pm-5:30am.

The only thing I do different is I actually grab the smallest splits possible. I figure the more lbs of wood I can stuff in the stove the better off I am. From my experience I can get more heat for longer from small pieces that I can from large chunks. The large chunks might give me an addition hour however the heat output is not nearly as good.

I can keep the house at 68-74 really easily, but when the temps get into the single digits I am forced to do a mid-night stoke around 2:00.
 
I can still build a fire after 12-14 hours maybe more but I'm not getting enough heart for 2000 Sq ft that's for sure
 
Valley what kind of stove do you have that you can get good heat for 12hrs?

I can easily heat my 1700 SF of 1963 built rambler in 20 degree temps with the smaller princess and 20 hour reload times, been doing it all week. Warmer temps I reload on 24 hour cycles. No matches. Oh and I only burn crap softwood.

No other brand of stove can do this.
 
Thats awesome. Anybody seen any Heatmors? I realize they are expensive and some are huge but i have a dealer nearby. The proprietor owns one personally. He told me can get 48 hrs on one full load. Now, thats coming from a "salesman" but i made clear i already had a stove.
 
I have the Princess Blaze King. My house is about 1400sq ft, single level ranch, 3bed/2 bath, 2 car garage.
I burn a mix of birch, poplar and spruce.

Only use the natural gas boilet floor heat in the garage and in the house if no one is home for a few days (not often)

I burn in the area of 3-3.5 cords a winter. Burning season here is roughly late September to early April
 
I roughly burn 6-7 cord per winter depending how cold it is between two stoves. The best i can manage in the house 16hr burn times if i keep the stove dampered down.
My shop stove the most i can do with it is 8 hrs on wood but it is a antique cast iron stove.

If i load it with 40 lbs of coal and keep the damper shut and air inlet barely open i can get 23-25 hr burn times.
house is 1800 square ft built around 1901 single story has 12ft ceilings 2 bed 1 bath. i burn black locust, oak, hickory, hackberry, maple, cherry, anything!
My stove in the house is a late 70's ashley circulator. and the stove in the garage is a 1900's sun potbelly.
 
Thats awesome. Anybody seen any Heatmors? I realize they are expensive and some are huge but i have a dealer nearby. The proprietor owns one personally. He told me can get 48 hrs on one full load. Now, thats coming from a "salesman" but i made clear i already had a stove.

So - you're talking an OWB?

Boilers are different - they have a liquid cooled firebox. Longer burn times means smoldering, smoking, creosote making, and wasted wood. So anybody selling one or trying to by bragging about long burn times is really trying to sell shortcomings. Or they just don't know.

Did he say how much wood was in that 48 hour load?
 
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This was my stove at 630am this morning. That was 5 splits of white oak at 1030pm on top of a bed of coals. Fiance told me the low was in the high 30s so i adjusted accordingly. Welp, the low was 45 so the house was 76. Never listen to a woman.
 
I don't get burn times nearly that long.
Mine stove is a non catalytic epa stove
with a 2.1 cubic ft firebox.
If I fill my stove on a large bed of ashes I will have a good hot burn for 6-10 hrs depending on the outside temp.
Clean burns are dependent on a great draft and dry wood.
I will post pictures if last nights some of the night some of the morning burn(SNSMB) later when I get a min.
 
Regency Harmon H200. Load 6 solid pieces. Get them engaged with flame and turn damper down all the way. 8-10 hours later plenty of coals to re-ignite. Keeps house above 65. That's all I care about
 
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