Time for a new bar?

[Mustang71]

I've been absent for a while. Anyways I've been cutting with my 028 the last few weeks and I am having issues. This is my main saw that I use. First I thought maybe the ash logs were frozen. I've never had that issue before. I've been sharpening the chain a lot trying to avoid my issue. The issue is the saw sometimes cuts at an angle and the bar seems to bind up mid cut. Not pinched just revs way up until you reposition it and it bites again. Some cuts are fine and some it acts like this. I came in today and checked the angles on the cutters and they are real close to even. One side I always file different. The bar is original, is that my issue? I've not yet worn out a bar that I know of. If so what's a decent bar that won't break the bank? Forester? Stihl? Or just a cheap county line one?

 

[turnkey4099]

99% of the time a saw cutting crooked is the fault of the sharpening job. I have had it happen a lot over my 50 years of cutting firewood. It has always been bad filing on my part.

 

[Mustang71]

99% of the time a saw cutting crooked is the fault of the sharpening job. I have had it happen a lot over my 50 years of cutting firewood. It has always been bad filing on my part.

Which is what I was thinking but I don't understand why the bar keeps stopping in the cut and running like the chain is on backwards until you pull it out and reposition it then it starts chipping again.

 

[nathan4104]

Having a spare bar on hand is never a bad idea, so go buy one and try. I had a very similar issue with my processor, and thought it was my hand sharpening. Nope. A chain i thought was junk was just fine in the new bar. I get ~150 cords on a bar, so dont worry about saving $20 on one, just get an OEM one and be done with it.
If it is your chain, check the depth gauges (rakers). I find those have a bigger impact on the binding cut than the angles on the cutter... the length of the cuttter effects how much the depth gauge is 'gauging' hence why they must be set to the tooth.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Can you post pics of the chain and bar?
Does the chain wobble side-to-side in the bar slot? If you have a mic, check the width of the bar slot and compare to the chain drivers.
Do the sides of the bar have a rolled over edge? Is the top surface of the slot 90 degrees to the side of the bar? Have you tried turning the bar over?

 

[Mustang71]

Having a spare bar on hand is never a bad idea, so go buy one and try. I had a very similar issue with my processor, and thought it was my hand sharpening. Nope. A chain i thought was junk was just fine in the new bar. I get ~150 cords on a bar, so dont worry about saving $20 on one, just get an OEM one and be done with it.
If it is your chain, check the depth gauges (rakers). I find those have a bigger impact on the binding cut than the angles on the cutter... the length of the cuttter effects how much the depth gauge is 'gauging' hence why they must be set to the tooth.

I filled down the rakers and it chips great when it wants to. It seems like if I keep the log against the spikes and burry the nose it will cut fine until the saw is straight up in the air but when I try to cut straight down through it won't move. If I don't cut against the spikes its better.

 

[Mustang71]

The bar is probably over 30 years old and I've put a lot of time on it. I did not flip it but even with a tight chain the chain will wobble side to side a lot.

 

[ericm979]

Here's a good piece on bar wear: https://www.madsens1.com/copy-of-how-a-cutter-tooth-works

wobbles a lot sounds like a worn bar

 

[Mustang71]

Here's a good piece on bar wear: https://www.madsens1.com/copy-of-how-a-cutter-tooth-works

wobbles a lot sounds like a worn bar

Mine does a lot of this and the rails are real angled.

 

[nathan4104]

That bar needs some TLC. The edges are rolled over. File it smooth. Do ypu have a belt sander? Try to file/sand the 'top' of the rails flat..... ie. 90⁰ to the sides.
Its probably worth your time to spend $80 on a new bar that will last you the rest of your cutting lifetime.

 

[Mustang71]

That bar needs some TLC. The edges are rolled over. File it smooth. Do ypu have a belt sander? Try to file/sand the 'top' of the rails flat..... ie. 90⁰ to the sides.
Its probably worth your time to spend $80 on a new bar that will last you the rest of your cutting lifetime.

So is it frowned upon to run this chain on a new bar? I think I have a new one somewhere but it might be a safety chain and I'm not using that. I paid less than 80$ for the saw lol.

 

[kenmbz]

New bar and new chain to work it in.
It'll save you from more trouble shooting.
I had a bar that was worn and my chain would catch well if I was on it, but as soon as I let up it would cut a bit sideways, replaced bar and chain and considered it ok as the old BC had served me well for years.

 

[bucketofguts]

Give the old girl a new bar and chain.

 

[ericm979]

Baileys' house brand bars and chains are inexpensive but still good quality. Random chinese stuff off amazon or ebay can be pretty variable in quality.

 

[Mustang71]

Baileys' house brand bars and chains are inexpensive but still good quality. Random chinese stuff off amazon or ebay can be pretty variable in quality.

I will check it out. The only bar I was looking at on ebay was the green forester one.

 

[buzz sawyer]

The two cutters on the right look dull on the tips. The cutter on the left side is shorter than the two on the right. Also, for as far back as the cutters are, it looks like the rakers are pretty high.
I agree, new bar and chain should fix it.

 

[Bubster]

I have worn bars out that were .050, and switched to .058 chain to get another year of cutting . But 30 years? That bar has paid for itself.

 

[cookies]

The rails are wollered out allowing the chain to angle away from the cut. With the chain on the saw and adjusted you should not be able to rock it side to side more than approx 1/8. you could try putting a abrasive wheel on a table saw to grind the rails down but my guess is the damage is the whole driver deep. Standard tsumura bars are good and not to expensive stens saber bars arent too bad either. I would steer clear of stihl bars unless they have a replaceable tip. Tractor supply bars arent too bad.

 

[Mustang71]

The rails are wollered out allowing the chain to angle away from the cut. With the chain on the saw and adjusted you should not be able to rock it side to side more than approx 1/8. you could try putting a abrasive wheel on a table saw to grind the rails down but my guess is the damage is the whole driver deep. Standard tsumura bars are good and not to expensive stens saber bars arent too bad either. I would steer clear of stihl bars unless they have a replaceable tip. Tractor supply bars arent too bad.

I've had issues with the stihl rollomatic bar on my one saw. The roller tip has locked up a few times and gets real stiff.

 

[stihltech]

I run a lot of bars through th bar machine to even the bar sides. One will wear lower than the other causing the chain to cut crooked. Too many want to remove the edge off the side of the bar only. There is a reason that edge formed
That and a sharpen are part of a tuneup in my shop. Just amazes me why people want to push on a saw. I feel satisfaction when I put it in the wood and just hold on. Watch the chips fly!