Todays project,346 jug on 350

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roncoinc

Official Stihl Disser
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Got home at two oclock with the last part needed to put the aftermarket 346 P&C on the 350..
when i started the cyl was off already and the clutch cover and recoil..
waited for husky circlips,way to small,almost fell out,used what came with kit,SUPER tight !
cut the plastic retainer off the intake boot and used a STIHL clamp,better than anything else..
pulled the tank off and top of crankcase and resealed with HONDABOND..
used that under gasketless jug also.
kinda cheated on the assembly,had all my tools ready and knew what i needed..
from taking the saw apart to fully assembled ready to fire up took two hours flat :)

pic all apart

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top of crankcase and cyl on and sealed

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this side done,see the sthil intake clamp ?

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ready to fire up tomorrow when all the sealant is good and dry :)

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OEM or NE P/C? What gains do you think you will see in power,torque and speed?

The NE 50cc one..
gains ?? should run like a ne346 i hope !!
plus muff mod and everything except upper transfers ported,,was able to get a lot out of the intake and exhaust is now at %80 ,,lower transfers enlarged end done up..
should go better than a stock 346ne,,i hope..
 
Looks great...Hope it runs like you expect

:clap::popcorn:
 
The 346, 350 and 353 share the same carb, top end and crankcase style, they are all interchangeable.
 
Dumb question maybe, but do the 346 and 350 share the same carb?

Looks like a great way to end up with a budget 346.

I really dont know,never checked that out..
as you can see no problem mounting to the cyl..
as long as it fills up 50CC no problem ! :)
same carb prob work fine up to 60-65cc,carbs are like that..
 
:popcorn:

can't wait for the performance report

Well i havent run a stock 350 in a couple of years but,,,wait :) i have a friend with one just with new stock P&C a few tankfulls ago :)
something to compare with !!
will deff do a report WITH video ..
 
Jesus, talk about beating a dead horse and digging up bones!

IF ANY of you would have taken the time to go back to the original question, which you OBVIOUSLY have NOT, you would have noticed I was referring to the FACT that you can bolt the piston and cylinder of ANY of these three saws on ANY one of the others.
OH MY ####ING GOD, YES the 350 has a PLASTIC crankcase! #### ME UP THE ASS!!! THIS IS NEWS TO ME!!!
Let me know when one of you fools actually have a PROBLEM with that ####ING PLASTIC crankcase, ok?

And people wonder why I don't come and post here much anymore, wow.:bang:
Hey bud, this is what you said;

The 346, 350 and 353 share the same carb, top end and crankcase style, they are all interchangeable.
 
Husq 350 lower crankcase

Did you pull the clutch off, remove the entire crank, and seal the bottom of the crank seals on to the plastic lower crankcase? If so, does the clutch come off just with a gear puller, or does it come off some other way?
.
I've got mine down to the crank in the plastic with the clutch still on, but need to make sure the lower crank seal(s) don't leak.
.
Looks like the metal lower cyl to plastic crankcase seat was a little compromised. I plan to seal it with high temp gasket seal, as has been mentioned previously. This will be the 3rd piston I've installed.
.
I'd like to use this saw more in the future. It is light and easy to handle. The McC 7-10 is too hard on my back and the vibro is hard to handle for big jobs.
.
Thanks for all the help.

Randy
 
Last edited:
Randy,

As mentioned before, you'll want to stick with a sealer that is Impervious to gasoline and oil Threebond 1194, motoseal from Permatex, Yamabond, Hondabond, all will work, and are all pretty much the same stuff..


Take a peek @ the 1st pic...you don't have to remove the clutch, or crank (or the flywheel) to get to the joint between the crankcase and adapter.

J
 
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