Tree trimming incorrectly done?

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NickfromWI said:
And then this is where you chime in to merge your knowledge of what's best for the tree with what it is they WANT for the tree. Just because they WANT it a certain way, that doesn't mean that's how it's to be done.

Just making sure we're on the same page here.

love
nick


Love Nick? :confused:

How about Thanks, Dont wanna get on the wrong note.


Rick
 
trystero said:
As far as the tree locations, the one between the two houses is actually splitting a shared asphalt paved driveway ( I know, probably not good ) :\ It has a very small amount of dirt about the trunk before the blacktop starts..
A tree the size of yours has roots that extend under and well past the driveway.
trystero said:
... the neighbor cut a new driveway on his side. The new driveway was about 6 feet from the trunk, but I could see that the guys who did it cut a lot of roots. I had an arborist come out to have a look who suggested feeding the tree. In general, they tree's health looked good to him, although he was not happy about the roots at all...
I don't see your geographic location, which might give a clue as to what type of soil and other climate challenges your tree is facing.

On feeding, I would tend to agree with Treeseer, with the exception of feeding with the goal of correcting specific nutrient deficiencies or pH problems.
There was time when a customer told me their tree guy fed their tree, which had recent construction damage, and I told them this was not a good thing. Only later to find out they "fed" the tree with sulfur to correct pH, Cambastat to regulate growth, and two applications of midsummer water. The tree guy turned out to be a colleague, Certified Arborist, and friend. :taped: :buttkick: :censored:

Note to self: First engage brain, then open mouth.

When you call for another tree guy, look for ISA Certification and some working knowledge of Cambisat for the tree with root damage. Expect a 2 or 3 hundred dollar bill for the treatment.
Again, I'd leave the limbs alone for now and re-address the possible need for more cutting in a few years.
 
Treeseer, I totally respect you. As Alex Shigo says: Tree discussion cannot be an attempt to get the last word. Malpractice is probably defined a thousand ways right here on this wonderful site. An arborist, certified or not, rarely needs to make non-standard cuts. Or perhaps sub standard? I’m relatively new to the forum, TreeSeer, though you, Tom Dunlap and most others seen right on. What do you think might become a catch phrase to connect good arborists with lay folks: Non standard cuts(bad) sub standard cuts(bad) Standard cuts(good), Decisions based on standards and guidelines(good). Spikes, bad. Flush Cuts, bad, stubs, bad, overpruning, bad. Root Zone Cover.
We have to connect with Joe average guy on the huge difference in tree service. I really wouldn’t mind losing a bid if I knew standard work would be done.
 
rebelman said:
What do you think might become a catch phrase to connect good arborists with lay folks: Non standard cuts(bad) sub standard cuts(bad) Standard cuts(good), Decisions based on standards and guidelines(good). .
Yeah I'm with you there; I use the words overpruning and substandard. The devil tho is in the details; there are many ways to apply the standards for different situations. If as you say our Decisions based on standards and guidelines(good). then we are doing as good as we can.

The contractors--driveway and tree--in this case did what they thought was best for the customer with little regard for the tree. Shortsighted at best.

Pruning Standards and Best Management Practices are $18 thru ISA. Attached is one application of the standards for one situation. oops no way to do that??; i'll email it to you.
 
I might as well jump in and add my 2 pennies. From everything that has been done by "student summer help" around here I've come to observe that Oaks in general need at least the 1/3 size lateral left to keep the limb alive-any less than that and you might as well take the branch back to the trunk and let the branch collar start doing it's thing. Why wait a year or two to see if it will die? In any of the pics posted I'd bet my next paycheck(I work for the University so don't count on much!) that every one of the stubs will be dead in two years
 
"Over pruning" describes most of the tree work done, anywhere, anytime. period.

Many of us would have solved the problem of the limbs over the roof differently than what the contractor did. AND...we would all probably do things a little different than each other.

I'm with Guy, Mike and Nick, let the tree show how much it can recover. There is a chance that Dad is right, the laterals may die off. If they do, you can have them done during the next pruning cycle in about three years. By then you'll be much more educated about trees.

The tree itself doesn't look overpruned but the stubbed laterals individually look over pruned.
 
DadF said:
Why wait a year or two to see if it will die? In any of the pics posted I'd bet my next paycheck(I work for the University so don't count on much!) that every one of the stubs will be dead in two years

There are at least two reasons, first the limb might defy your wager and continue to grow, second, a "branch protection zone" forms as a branch begins to die. This is a chemical, and actual physical, barrier to decay. The barrier takes time to set up, hence i't always better to remove branches in stages when possible. The idea being, to mimic a slowly dying limb being shaded out by upper canopy.
 
trystero said:
Hi... We had a tree service come out and trim some of the lower branches that were either touching the roof of the home, or leaning heavily on telephone/cable lines.
Thanks for any help.

Just out of idle curiousity........... How many estimats did you get? Was this the cheapest bid you could find in your whole county? How much did you pay for the job? Did they do a good cleanup?
 

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