Trimming Red Oak Tree

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BillNole

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Greeting all.

I've searched the forum and found some good information, but thought I'd just pose the questions anyway, to be sure I'm not missing something.

I've attached a couple of photos of an oak in my backyard that has one particular branch that worries me just a bit. The one that sticks out toward the left in the image will eventually be hanging over the house, which I'd like to avoid, in case it drops in a storm, or for any other reason. It also appears to my uneducated eye that the structure at the joint could lead to health problems for the tree as it matures and the weight of that branch increases and moves with wind, snow and ice.

I read in an old thread that leaving the "branch collar" is apparently advisable, as opposed to cutting flush, to aid in healing and to avoid damage to the main trunk.

My questions are:

Does the angle / structure of this joint present a problem that would be best addressed now, as opposed to when it becomes a chore beyond my capabilities? Even though that's still 20+ years in the future, I'd just as soon do it now and have it recover easier, than doing it 20 years from now and leaving a glaring bald spot.

Is it correct, that leaving a portion of the branch is the best option if cutting is advised? Is 2" - 3" correct?

Is this the right time of the year to stress the tree by trimming? (Fall)

I'll lose a small patch of shade if I cut it, but I have to chase the shade anyway since the tree is so small still. I would think it will fill in in a couple of years and be healthier in the long run.

I know the spacing with all the trees is wrong and will have to address the arborvitae at some point as they become shaded by the oak more and more. I wish I'd have never put them in and would have just gone with a privacy fence in the beginning, but hindsight is 20/20... The pines in the far background are intended to block the glaring (ALL night...) lights from the neighbor at that end. They are now almost completely doing that with the help of the fence behind them. Sitting on our deck was previously an exercise in frustration as we sat feeling as if we were about to be interrogated in the evenings, or late at night, or anytime for that matter.

Thanks in advance for any advice offered.

View attachment 374272 View attachment 374273
 
I have no idea why they weren't attached before, or why I'm having trouble getting them to come in right-side-up, but this is as close as I can seem to get right now. Thanks for the heads-up!

IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0329.JPG
 
Even without pictures, a couple of these are easy to answer:
....Is it correct, that leaving a portion of the branch is the best option if cutting is advised? Is 2" - 3" correct?

Is this the right time of the year to stress the tree by trimming? (Fall)
...
Yes, now is the time to prune.
No, you don't leave 2-3" of the branch. You leave the branch collar. Read more here: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/pruning-cuts.shtml
 
Even without pictures, a couple of these are easy to answer:

Yes, now is the time to prune.
No, you don't leave 2-3" of the branch. You leave the branch collar. Read more here: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/pruning-cuts.shtml

Thanks ATH! Great information, particularly with the pictures. I'm a visual sort of guy and sometimes you can explain things 12 times, using different words each time, and I still won't be sure of what to do...

I'll take that one off soon and wait for it to fill in over the years.

Thank you!
 
The general rule is once you cut them off you can't put it back.
I start with anything pointing downward and trim those first.
Then a step back and look at the tree.
Then I select a few limbs and trim and step back and look again.
I always stop and step back and look at the shape of the tree and work with what the tree tells me.
Remember once you cut, you can't go back.
Take your time and keep stepping back and looking at the shape of the tree.

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO LEAVE THE LITTLE RING NEXT TO THE TRUNK INTACT.
DON'T CUT FLUSH, LEAVE THAT LITTLE RING ON THERE. IT IS WHAT WILL GROW OVER AND SEAL THE CUT LIMB.
IF YOU CUT TOO CLOSE AND REMOVE THAT RING, THE LIMB WILL NOT HEAL PROPERLY OR EVEN AT ALL.
 
Thanks sb. I'm just taking the one branch off this time. I don't want to deal with it when it's embedded in the dining room 20 years from now. The tree is young enough now that the "hole" left in the canopy should fill in within a few years and provide a nice shape, barring any other issues.

Well, that's the plan anyway...
 
Depending on the tree and where its growing, if it has a strong side that grows faster then the other, you can select prune the strong side and clip the leaders on the strong side to allow the weaker side catch up.
 
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