Trouble Cutting Stump

[ron in sc]

I was wondering if there is a special kind of chainsaw chain to cut an old pine tree stump.

I was trying to cut a stump off lower to the ground for my neighbor but am having a real hard time. Stump is pine tree, tree cut down 4 years ago, 24" in diameter, trying to cut it off 20" above ground.

The old saw a Poulan 3400 has enough power but the blade does not seem to be making much of a dent. Just had the chain shapen by place that does that and chain is plenty shap.

It's almost like I'm trying to cut stone.

Could it be that since stump is old sap in it, got hard and it is like stone. Just a guess.

 

[Lobo]

Hi Ron,

Trying to cut an old hardened stump can sometimes be difficult as even with a freshly sharpened blade you may end up hitting dirt and stones which will dull the chain teeth in no time.

If you do not want to go to the expense of a rental stump grinder or contracting the stump grinding out, the easiest way I know of is to take a circular saw (skilsaw) and cut grooves in the stump, dice up the first 2 inches. If it is already very dry you can pour kerosene in it and burn it down to the ground level or as i do use an axe to chop off the dices and bring it down. Depending on the stump height if you opt for dicing and chopping you may need to repeat the procedure several times.

You could also rent a cut-off saw (chainsaw like arrangement with a large cutting wheel) and dice up 5 - 6 inches deep at a time.

 

[tony marks]

my guess is you have an fine grit or something imbedded in the stump..what lobo said sounds like a good approach..

 

[njforestfire]

If you are going to burn it, check the local laws regarding open burning. It might not be legal to do so. Also one thing to keep in mind when burning stumps is that the fire can, does and will travel throught the root system and 'pop up' some where else and start something you don't want any part of. Just a word of caution.

 

[Doug01]

If Rocky was still here, he'd say......."since when do chainsaws have blades"

 

[ron in sc]

the easiest way I know of is to take a circular saw (skilsaw) and cut grooves in the stump, dice up the first 2 inches.

Lobo,
This sounds like my best bet. Burning is not an option since the area around the stump is surrounded by was myrtles.

depth guides were checked after the chain was sharpened.

Dan,
Can you tell from a photo anything about the depth guides if I take one?


I pretty confident I not hitting any dirt or grit.

 

[Lobo]

If Rocky was still here, he'd say......."since when do chainsaws have blades"

I agree I think the word '' Blade'' for a bar is RIDICULOUS !

 

[begleytree]

when I read the post, my first thought was flip the chain, its backwards!
Here, I've never seen a pine stump get harder after cutting, they rot and fall apart.
An old oak stump now, the sc502 jumps up and down on them!
-Ralph

 

[DarioMO]

when I read the post, my first thought was flip the chain, its backwards!
-Ralph

I thought of this but being a newbie...I might sound stupid .

 

[Lobo]

when I read the post, my first thought was flip the chain, its backwards!
Here, I've never seen a pine stump get harder after cutting, they rot and fall apart.
An old oak stump now, the sc502 jumps up and down on them!
-Ralph

Nah ! Come on that is really too obvious !


Well then again MAY BE NOT !

 

[galde]

Ron: Lay something smooth and straight on top of the chain near the middle of the bar. It will rest on the tops of the teeth. Then sight from the side and look at the size of the gap between the top of the depth gauge (raker) and the bottom of the straight object on top. You can even use a feeler gauge to measure this gap precisely. The gap should be either 0.025" or 0.030" depending on the type of chain. I have seen chain where the teeth had been filed back to where the raker stuck up past the top of the tooth. In this case the tooth can not get to the wood. If the rakers are cut down too deep, the chain will tend to grab and jerk. Old stumps tend to get filled with dirt and grit from various insects. I have had good service from carbide-tipped chains, which are expensive.

 

[ron in sc]

1- Chain not on backwards.

2-Just ordered a new bar, sproket and a couple of chains fromSite Sponsor TonyM.

3-Measured gap per galde's instruction, gap is about .015.

Photos below.

 

[Lobo]

Ron my old eyes are not what they once were, but the bar nose sprocket area looks worn to me, hard for me to establish however if it is still working well enough, i have seen worst however, the chain shows signs of the file digging in to the bottom of the links but there does appear to be sufficient tooth if they are sharpened properly, but geez from the second pic I could swear the rakers are higher than the tooth or real close anyways. Normally they look lower and on my chains significantly lower, although on mine I would be considered as over doing it.

I am not sure what the others will say, however I am glad to see you did order a new chain, but heck don't ruin it doing stump work.

I think there has probably been loose chain wear here!

 

[begleytree]

Ron, I was just funnin with ya!
but really, my x-bro-in-law went to the car dealer shop, bought, and installed a new air filter. after changing, car wouldn't run. Playing dumb, I told him to take the filter out of the plastic bag it was in (gm). After he did, it ran fine.

I don't try to treat folks dumb, but sometimes you just gotta ask!

Dario, who would you listen to more: a 18yo groundie with 2,000 posts, or a 20 year climbing veteran with 100 ?
post count doesn't prove or disprove knowledge. Say whatever you want.
-Ralph

 

[Elmore]

I don't recommend burning the stump because, in my experience, it takes forever and any charred wood not totally burned up is preserved from rotting. I save my saw and back and simply let the stump rot. Pine here, rots fairly quickly. On occasion I have toiled to cut a stump, hardwood and/or pine, flush with the ground. After cutting flush or near flush I would score the surface with thy sword of the saw...I mean chain to enable bacteria and fungi to finish it off. You might try cutting diagonally down to ground level on both sides of the stump (like a V ), then try flush cutting. It works great...in my mind.

 

[056kid]

put a little more rake on that chain and she will cut faster than you can believe!

 

[056kid]

Also if your bar aint straight, Cutting with the bar all the way in the wood will be like trying to turn a mack truck at a dead stop with no power stearing, Nothing happens. try plunging into the wood and seeing if she cuts, if so it,s your bar.

 

[TonyM]

Those rakers need to be lowered. Don't know if that is the only problem though. Is the saw cutting in part way and then stopping, or is ot not cutting at all from the start? I had a saw once with a bar that had a twist to it, and you could start a cut and the end of the bar would curve right. Next to the powerhead it would curve left, and after you cut about 3" deep you weren't going any further. Take the bar off and sight down it looking for twist.

 

[Doug01]

I burn stumps out all the time. Usually Cedar though. Cut off as low as possible and start a small fire. Trick is keeping the coals pushed in right on top of the stump. Takes off at or below ground level and can mow over w/ no problemb. I know this doesn't really applie to the original post until the stump gets cut closer. In the chain pictured, if the rakerswere lowered and the gullet cleaned up the chain should cut good. Gypo told me to keep the gullets cleaned out so it has to be true.

Ralph-PM me or send me an e-mail. I sent you a PM a while but haven't heard from you.

Doug

 

[John Ellison]

Make sure your chain is getting oil.