Ultrasonic cleaner experience

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hosocat

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I think there is some ongoing discussion about advisability of using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean chainsaw carb bodies. Here is my recent experience.

This week I decided to tune up a homelite 240 chainsaw and a troybilt tb430 leaf blower that have been lying around my garage. Both of them would start and run, but they both required feathering the trigger and partial choke to keep running. So I decided to clean the carbs and see if that helped. The gaskets, pump membrane and valve diaphragms all looked good, so I just cleaned and reassembled. However, this time I did something I've not done before. I used my new ultrasonic cleaner to clean the bodies. With the 240 carb I immersed it in a jar of acetone, and for leaf blower I immersed in a jar of harbor freight degreaser cleaner solution (the greenish yellow stuff).

Upon reassembly both pieces of equipment would not start or even sputter. Just stone cold dead. If I dribbled fuel into the carb throat they start right up, but die in a couple seconds.

So, I'm thinking in both cases the check valves were damaged by ultrasound and the carb venturi cannot draw any fuel from the line.

This is just my experience. Don't know how the ultrasound has worked for others. Not really a big deal for the leaf blower, cuz I can get a replacement carb easily from hipa. But the homelite 240 makes me sick because I'm not finding any replacement carbs available.
 
The carbs were either damaged by the acetone or rubber parts were already gone past the point of not saving. You asked about acetone in another thread and the consensus was not recommended
if your cleaner has heat, if the liquid got too hot, that could also have an effect of rubber parts. Ive done that.
 
I did use compressed air on the initial cleaning of the homelite, which could have caused damage as I later learned on YouTube. Temp for cleaner on both carbs during ultrasound was 35 degrees centigrade.
 
Did you try House OF Homelite?
I checked. He had a walbro wt-6 but mine was a zama. Both the throttle and choke levers are on the same side on the zama. On the walbro they were on opposite sides of carb. Thanks for the suggestion.

I finally found a replacement nos on ebay. But it was from an unknown seller, and I don't know if all the seals will be crunchy or what. But I had to take a chance.

Just offering up my experience fwiw. I think my big mistake was not checking availability of replacement parts before I started experimenting.
 
The carbs were either damaged by the acetone or rubber parts were already gone past the point of not saving. You asked about acetone in another thread and the consensus was not recommended
if your cleaner has heat, if the liquid got too hot, that could also have an effect of rubber parts. Ive done that.
Yeah, my previous post SHOULD have said "I've already used acetone...did I screw up?" 😄😄
 
For some reason, ‘regular’ Simple Green is not supported to be used on aluminum.

Philbert
In my experience the regular Simple Green is too harsh on parts placed in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, even chains. I use Gunk De-greaser (purple) full concentration and 1 tablespoon Dawn blue grease fighter dish soap (per gallon). Rinse in hot water (so it evaporates quickly) and dump in a jar of WD40 (Water Displacement) if the situation calls for it. With that my luck has been good.

I put water in the UC and de-greaser and part(s) in a glass jar, the jar goes in the water; keeps the UC clean.

On using gas in a UC: Not a good idea. The UC waves can, in rare cases, constructively converge and separate water into Hydrogen and Oxygen which then recombines violently in a micro-explosion. I have come to understand (perhaps incorrectly) similar can happen with flammable liquids and if that recombination is right at the liquid/vapor line the vapor could be ignited and cause "a bad day."



However, this is interesting (and you guys got on me for using a dishwasher):

(notes on dishwasher and laundry soap and detergent)

Why degas and degassing your cleaner (I just run a longer first cycle):
 
For some reason, ‘regular’ Simple Green is not supported to be used on aluminum.

Philbert
Something about the military using it for planes stopped it. I found that out of a truck forum I’m on. I’ve used simple green on aluminum wheels for 25 years before I learned it was frowned upon.
 
For some reason, ‘regular’ Simple Green is not supported to be used on aluminum.

Philbert
Simple Green is slightly basic with a pH of 9. Aluminum is generally somewhat resistant to acids, but is attacked by bases. I doubt quick exposure would be a problem in most cases, though it may discolor the aluminum, depending on the alloy.
 

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