Ultrasonic fluid compilation thread

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Jimbo209

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What fluids are being used to clean parts both remedies and commercial products
What works and where on bits such as

Chains
Mechanical ie, carb
Body - cases, clutch covers,mufflers, plastic, mag and steel.

Thinking lemon juice, metho, turps, detergents from dish soap to simple green, bicarb, unleaded gas, diesel??? Some won't mix I know, just what.

Or other similar fixes like Have also found stainless kitchen polish great for bars

Posting this as I have just got this
 
A lot is depending the quality of your ultrasonic unit. The cheaper Harbor Freight style units uses a lower grade of stainless steel tanks and can't handle strong cleaners. Personally I use a small Kendall unit for a little over a year and the tank started developing some minor rusting. I most use Dawn Ultra in it with fairly good results. I sold it primary because I was needing a larger tank and I have now upgraded to a 3 liter commercial version that has much better stainless steel tank.

I have been testing it using a pH12 commercial soap but won't be doing any heavy use until the start of the lawn care season here I primary clean carburetors in mine so I had very good result with common liquid dish soap. Just trying stronger cleaner for faster cleaning times.

One piece of advice here DO NOT mix acids and bases together as poisonous or explosive fumes can be produced. Also the stainless steel tanks can damage if too strong of a ph cleaning solution especially on the acidic side is used.
 
this is what works for me.. strip all the covers off and spray everything with this stuff



poor guys in the US cant get it, but it works bloody fantastically. for best results i use a pressure washer to wash it off after letting it soak for 5 mins.
if possible i put the recoil back on and run the saw to make sure it hasnt drunk too much water and help dry it out. if its DOA saw then plug it up real well or completely strip it straight after cleaning to dry it out with air.

stuff that goes in the USC goes in with simple green, say a cup or 2 for 5 litres of water. it works better at 50 plus degrees.
 
AVB said:
A lot is depending the quality of your ultrasonic unit. The cheaper Harbor Freight style units uses a lower grade of stainless steel tanks and can't handle strong cleaners. Personally I use a small Kendall unit for a little over a year and the tank started developing some minor rusting. I most use Dawn Ultra in it with fairly good results. I sold it primary because I was needing a larger tank and I have now upgraded to a 3 liter commercial version that has much better stainless steel tank.

I have been testing it using a pH12 commercial soap but won't be doing any heavy use until the start of the lawn care season here I primary clean carburetors in mine so I had very good result with common liquid dish soap. Just trying stronger cleaner for faster cleaning times.

One piece of advice here DO NOT mix acids and bases together as poisonous or explosive fumes can be produced. Also the stainless steel tanks can damage if too strong of a ph cleaning solution especially on the acidic side is used.
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Thanks I thought a picture of the Olympus 7L old one I just acquired was up loaded. I should have said it first up
 
Our ultra-sonic cleaner is 6 gallons. We use about 2 tablespoons Dawn dish soap and half a cup of purple degreaser. We use the ultra-sonic daily, so it sees a lot of use. Most of the work is cleaning carburetors, and ours has a heater in it so it's a lot more effective than one that only has cold water in it.

It really doesn't take much detergent or degreaser, and we change the water every 2-3 days. I've cleaned thousands of carburetors using it, and when they come out of the cleaner they get an immediate rinse in cold water, then blown dry......Cliff
 
has anyone ever took notice of how much dirt and crap comes out of a carb while in the cleaner? I don't mean the crap that is on the outside of the carb sawdust oil ect. I mean from the inside only or would that material be too small to see? I don't see stuff on the outside of a carb as an issue in the ability of the unit to function correctly , only what may have been inside.
 
Jeff Lary said:
has anyone ever took notice of how much dirt and crap comes out of a carb while in the cleaner? I don't mean the crap that is on the outside of the carb sawdust oil ect. I mean from the inside only or would that material be too small to see? I don't see stuff on the outside of a carb as an issue in the ability of the unit to function correctly , only what may have been inside.
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Most stuff I see coming out of the carb insides looks more like stained water much like a weak tea color but I actually wash off all the carbs before putting them in the USC.
 
Thanks I was hoping you would answer me. Well the reason I asked is I don't have one but have thought about it some. Now do you just strip it down like you were going to put a kit in it , plus remove the hi and lo speed screws? Or do you also remove the welsh plugs I myself have never removed the plugs I guess I could but from what I have read here you almost never have to.
 
Jeff Lary said:
Thanks I was hoping you would answer me. Well the reason I asked is I don't have one but have thought about it some. Now do you just strip it down like you were going to put a kit in it , plus remove the hi and lo speed screws? Or do you also remove the welsh plugs I myself have never removed the plugs I guess I could but from what I have read here you almost never have to.
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It best to remove those screws as makes cleaning easier. As far as the welch plugs I usually leave them in place here.

pioneerguy600 said:
Most stuff I see coming out of the carb insides looks more like stained water much like a weak tea color but I actually wash off all the carbs before putting them in the USC.
Click to expand...
Here it looks more like the carburetor is smoking as the dissolve dirt and oils exit the carburetor ports while using the USC. This smoking effect can actually give you an idea where the clogged area is located.

Washing off the exterior does makes the cleaning faster and doesn't get the cleaning solution as dirty which would slow down the cleaning. Also allows you reuse the solution if it isn't too dirty; although, I make a fresh batch each time here. Reusing the solution to me is like washing your feet and then putting back on those dirty socks.
 
Jeff Lary said:
Thanks I was hoping you would answer me. Well the reason I asked is I don't have one but have thought about it some. Now do you just strip it down like you were going to put a kit in it , plus remove the hi and lo speed screws? Or do you also remove the welsh plugs I myself have never removed the plugs I guess I could but from what I have read here you almost never have to.
Click to expand...

I don`t remove the welch plugs on the first go round, actually I have likely only removed the plugs on less than a dozen carbs in all the years I have dealt with them.I do remove everything else including the H & L screws. The USC has really improved the carb cleaning over soaking them in cleaners and I get some doozies on old mag saws that have set in someones shed or shop for 15 - 20 years or more with old nasty gas that has mostly evaporated. These carbs are layered with varnish so I do soak those ones in carb cleaner first and then USC them. Carbs that come in on saws only 12 - 15 years old or newer usually clean up easily in the USC.
 
Use dawn and water in a ziplock bag that's then placed in just water in my h/f USC.


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Jeff Lary said:
What was the saw doing and what is under them? just a small hole I always thought.
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As what is behind those welch plugs depends on the carburetor. Some welch plugs you never remove as there is not any replacements. I had this problem last summer when a customer had me to see what was up his Stihl trimmer. Someone had previously attempted to rebuild the carburetor and had removed the welch plug over the main nozzle in that Zama. That carburetor was flooding so bad you could not even start it. I search through all my saved spare welch plugs and could never find a size that would work. I ended having to replace the carburetor.
 
Jeff Lary said:
What caused you to remove the welsh plugs? What was the saw doing and what is under them? just a small hole I always thought.
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I couldn`t get them to feed enough fuel on the H side, I remember two of them having flakes of stuff under the plugs that would relocate over the H orifices blocking enough the saws could not spool up no matter how far out the H needle was set. There is usually a change of direction of the fuel delivery tunnel from horizontal/ across the carb body down to the carb throat. The welch plug allows for the drill to make the hole/tunnel and then the top of the hole is capped with the plug if that makes sense.
Other carbs needed the small orifices cleaned as they were plugged or coated with varnish or other contaminates that wouldn`t let them feed fuel.
 
Chainsaw Jim said:
As far as carburetors go...If I feel that one is dirty enough inside to consider soaking or sonic bath then I'll scrap it for parts.
Oil eater works very well for all other parts, plus it's biodegradable and non toxic.
Click to expand...
Scrap a 100 dollar carburetor with out trying clean it and such ?

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