Update to my 970 not idling down

[KMB]

An update to my situation.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=32866&highlight=970
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33107&highlight=970
I was able to replace the fuel tank vent with know problem. Also I removed the carb and cleaned it, did a visual inspection of the fuel line, the air intake boot (from filter to carb), the boot between the carb and cylinder, and the carb impulse hose - everything looked okay. It ran properly when I went out and made about 4 or 5 cuts in some approx. 18" Pecan, but then it went back to the engine continuing at high rpm with the chain running after I let off of the throttle/trigger. I found out that trying to turn the saw off with the start/stop switch does nothing, I have to pull the choke to get the engine to stop. And when I start it back up, it's still reving high with the chain spinning. I have to adjust the idle speed screw to get it to come back down to idle with the chain stopped.
Could this be a problem with my clutch? Should I have a pressure/vacuum test done? I know Olympyk saws aren't popular here on AS, but maybe someone with a different brand of saw might have had a similar experience or a saw mechanic might have an idea. Any help is welcome.

Kevin

 

[retoocs555]

An update to my situation.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=32866&highlight=970
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33107&highlight=970
I was able to replace the fuel tank vent with know problem. Also I removed the carb and cleaned it, did a visual inspection of the fuel line, the air intake boot (from filter to carb), the boot between the carb and cylinder, and the carb impulse hose - everything looked okay. It ran properly when I went out and made about 4 or 5 cuts in some approx. 18" Pecan, but then it went back to the engine continuing at high rpm with the chain running after I let off of the throttle/trigger. I found out that trying to turn the saw off with the start/stop switch does nothing, I have to pull the choke to get the engine to stop. And when I start it back up, it's still reving high with the chain spinning. I have to adjust the idle speed screw to get it to come back down to idle with the chain stopped.
Could this be a problem with my clutch? Should I have a pressure/vacuum test done? I know Olympyk saws aren't popular here on AS, but maybe someone with a different brand of saw might have had a similar experience or a saw mechanic might have an idea. Any help is welcome.

Kevin

It doesn't sound like a clutch problem.

It could be that the carb needs a rebuild kit or you may have an air leak somewhere.

One of my 970's is doing the same thing, but I haven't tackled that problem. Thats why I have 2! I just use the other one. So, I'll be interested to hear about it when you figure it out and get the problem fixed.

Good luck. I wish I had the time to tackle my 970 to figure it out.

 

[KMB]

It doesn't sound like a clutch problem.

It could be that the carb needs a rebuild kit or you may have an air leak somewhere.

One of my 970's is doing the same thing, but I haven't tackled that problem. Thats why I have 2! I just use the other one. So, I'll be interested to hear about it when you figure it out and get the problem fixed.

Good luck. I wish I had the time to tackle my 970 to figure it out.

Thanks for your post. I don't know if I feel better knowing that my 970 isn't the only one with my problem or not. It's sure is frustrating. I'm trying to fix it myself - trying to save myself some shop labour cost. I don't have the means of doing my own pressure/vac test, so I'll have to break down and take it to a shop to have it done.

In the meantime, the starter assembly decided to partly quit (the pull cord would return partly onto the pulley into the assembly). I took it apart and the spring came unwound. I got the spring back in place, put the pulley back on, but the spring is not engaging at all now. I'm not sure if I should look for a complete assembly or try to get the parts I think need replacing. I managed to get the IPL for the 970 and it shows what looks like an updated starter assembly. Do you have a starter assembly available? Or any suggestion about rebuilding my present assembly.

When I get my original problem figured out and fixed, I'll let you know.

Kevin

 

[retoocs555]

Are you sure the pulley is engaging the spring in the starter assembly?

Or is the spring broken? or on upside-down

I have a new recoil assembly on one of my saws but only because the plastic tends to break down near the bottom and mine broke at 2 mounting screws and would not stay on.

 

[KMB]

Are you sure the pulley is engaging the spring in the starter assembly?

Or is the spring broken? or on upside-down

I have a new recoil assembly on one of my saws but only because the plastic tends to break down near the bottom and mine broke at 2 mounting screws and would not stay on.

I'm positive that the pulley is not engaging the rewind spring in the starter assembly. The spring is not broken, but I think I bent it a little when I put it back in. So when I try to put the pulley on the shaft of the plastic cover, the pulley does not sit in the rewind spring coil properly. I'm going to take some digital pictures and see if I can post them as to explain myself better.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

I'm having trouble uploading my pictures of the starter assembly. I'll keep working at it.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

Got my pictures to upload finally (anybody know a quick and easy way to downsize a picture?).

General overall picture of starter cover with spring.

Close-up of spring.

Pulley that has to be flipped over onto shaft/post and into the spring.

These pictures are to help me explain why I'm having trouble putting the pulley on the spring. I think the spring originally formed a wider circle around the shaft/post where the pulley sits. But I think I bent it a little when I put it back in (the spring). So when I try to put the pulley on the shaft/post of the plastic cover, the pulley does not sit in the rewind spring coil properly.

Kevin

 

[Sprig]

Re-sizing

iyiyiyiyi, that was no fun on dial-up lol. Got turned onto 'Irfanview' for re-sizing, an nice highly usable freeware utility for making images managable, it has been mention somewhere here before, the price is right! Depending on your cameras software there is often an option of 'Save As' (jpeg) that will allow you to re-size too and if I am not mistaken XP has a sizing option as well. I have been using my Paint Shop Pro8 to do this, Irfan seems much easier, a quick google should get you a download site for it.

A quick look at your spring prob (that finally loaded) shows that the last bit of the spring itself should be gently bent to be closer to the spindle so that the hook is engaged but not be too tight (as you won't get the cover to fit), they are a pita, I am not fond of putting them back together (moving it outta the way to re-assmble it) so I came up with tying a piece of thread to it to move it slightly, has made it easier for me. I'm sure other more knowlegable folks will have better advice.

 

[KMB]

iyiyiyiyi, that was no fun on dial-up lol. Got turned onto 'Irfanview' for re-sizing, an nice highly usable freeware utility for making images managable, it has been mention somewhere here before, the price is right! Depending on your cameras software there is often an option of 'Save As' (jpeg) that will allow you to re-size too and if I am not mistaken XP has a sizing option as well. I have been using my Paint Shop Pro8 to do this, Irfan seems much easier, a quick google should get you a download site for it.

A quick look at your spring prob (that finally loaded) shows that the last bit of the spring itself should be gently bent to be closer to the spindle so that the hook is engaged but not be too tight (as you won't get the cover to fit), they are a pita, I am not fond of putting them back together (moving it outta the way to re-assmble it) so I came up with tying a piece of thread to it to move it slightly, has made it easier for me. I'm sure other more knowlegable folks will have better advice.

Thanks for the tip. I did find a trial edition of Paint Shop Pro on my computer and was able to resize my pictures. So, I've been trying to edit my post by replacing the original pictures with the downsized pictures, but now my dial-up connection is not staying connected. I'm going to keep at it.

I'm going to try to use your thread trick for putting the pulley in place. Sounds like you also own an Olympyk saw - which model ?

Kevin

 

[Sprig]

Yer welcome, no, I have one faithful old Sthil, my 08S, just helped a lot of people with snapped cords and broken springs and other mucking about with machinery, I learn by trial and tribulation. The recoil in my saw is very similar, a few years ago the spring broke and I used about 6" of it up before I got the hook-loop thingy right, not having a replacement and all, the thread trick works but like I said, make sure the hook is sitting where it'll snag and don't over bend the arc in the end, and don't forget to pretension your rope before you bolt everything up, that is just embarassin', especially with a critical audience. I know *hangs head*

Good luck on your restoration man!

 

[KMB]

Yer welcome, no, I have one faithful old Sthil, my 08S, just helped a lot of people with snapped cords and broken springs and other mucking about with machinery, I learn by trial and tribulation. The recoil in my saw is very similar, a few years ago the spring broke and I used about 6" of it up before I got the hook-loop thingy right, not having a replacement and all, the thread trick works but like I said, make sure the hook is sitting where it'll snag and don't over bend the arc in the end, and don't forget to pretension your rope before you bolt everything up, that is just embarassin', especially with a critical audience. I know *hangs head*

Good luck on your restoration man!

I should have started working already, but I had to try the thread trick...and it worked awesome!!! . Thank ya! I'm also glad you mentioned about pretensioning the rope. I'm happy cause I didn't want to have to order a new assembly and wait for it to arrive and drive an hour one-way to get it etc. etc. and so on. Now I can get back to focusing on the original problem with my saw. I'm hoping that my local Stihl dealer can help me find whats wrong with my saw. If not, I guess I'll have to drive that hour to my Efco dealer.

Kevin

 

[Justsaws]

I am not familiar with the 970 but if you are looking for an air leak at idle put some rich mix in an oiler can and apply it around the usual suspects while the engine is running. Low tech, cheap. Fairly obvious if you find the leak. In a pinch you could use WD-40.

 

[KMB]

I am not familiar with the 970 but if you are looking for an air leak at idle put some rich mix in an oiler can and apply it around the usual suspects while the engine is running. Low tech, cheap. Fairly obvious if you find the leak. In a pinch you could use WD-40.

Thanks for the tip. Right now, the areas of a possible air leak that I know of would be the fuel hose (tank to carb), carb impulse hose, and air intake boots (air filter to carb, and carb to cylinder). Where else should/would I look/find an air leak?

Kevin

 

[Justsaws]

Cylinder base gasket. De-comp. valve if it has one. Crank seals but you probably cannot get to them. Remember that you are not looking for bubbles you are listening for changes in rpm. I think that everyone ends up trying to track down an air leak eventually. Also carb issues can sometimes seem like air leaks. Have you rebuilt the carb with all new guts. Make sure to look for ups or binding in the throttle linkage as well. Good luck.

 

[KMB]

Remember that you are not looking for bubbles you are listening for changes in rpm.

I learn something new everyday - almost. Thanks. I haven't put a carb kit in it, just took apart and cleaned the carb. I'll have to get a kit for it.

My saw doesn't have a decomp valve and the throttle linkage seems smooth.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

An update on my problem with my 970. It's now fixed.
I found a IPL for my carb and saw that there is a spring for the idle speed screw - which my saw did not have. I called Walbro, explained my problem to a nice customer service rep. She took my name, phone number, e-mail address and mailing address and told me to send her an e-mail with the details and said she'd look into it. I sent an e-mail with a digital picture of my carb and the idle speed screw. I believe it was the same day (or the next day), she contacted me and said she'd be sending some of the appropiate springs the next day. A few days later, 3 of the springs arrived - no charge to me. I installed one on my idle speed screw and went to cutting wood. I wanted to put some time on the saw before I posted this to make sure that it was fixed - and it is!
I know the 3 springs were not costly at all, but the way I was treated as a customer was positive. Good job Walbro.

Kevin

 

[olyman]

kmb--970--yeehah--got one out of puerto rico--yup--and looked a whole lot better on ebay!!!!!!!!!!!!! used to sell oly and jons---soooo-hooked back up with distributor--and started to get parts---after 137.00 in parts--and my labor--new piston--barrel ok--and lots of miss parts--runs like a wildcat---but the 264 is still a hummer--after 25 yrs of use---getting harder to get parts for em--

 

[KMB]

kmb--970--yeehah--got one out of puerto rico--yup--and looked a whole lot better on ebay!!!!!!!!!!!!! used to sell oly and jons---soooo-hooked back up with distributor--and started to get parts---after 137.00 in parts--and my labor--new piston--barrel ok--and lots of miss parts--runs like a wildcat---but the 264 is still a hummer--after 25 yrs of use---getting harder to get parts for em--

Glad there's another Olympyk fan here . I came upon mine through a local newspaper in a want ad. I didn't know nothing about Olympyk saws. After some quick research here on AS I found the size (71cc) and Olympyk reputation sounded right, the price was right, so I bought it. I wanted (and still want) a Stihl of the same size (044/440), but this saw continues to make me happy everytime I run it .

Kevin