Walbro WA carb rebuild pix

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thanks much. peanut brain is resting assured.

The "W" tool is only necessary on two or three Walbro models, I don't remember which ones offhand. Others you can just use a small straight edge. I recently came into a W tool but for years didn't have or need one. If you're gonna get one you might as well get the "Z" tool also for the Zamas.
 
The "W" tool is only necessary on two or three Walbro models, I don't remember which ones offhand. Others you can just use a small straight edge. I recently came into a W tool but for years didn't have or need one. If you're gonna get one you might as well get the "Z" tool also for the Zamas.

The ones you are thinking of use the middle part of the "W" to reach down into the sunken area where the lever sits with the other two legs resting on the outside of the "bowl".
a small narrow straight edge that fits inside will suffice for those.
someplace in this thread is the machinist rule i use for that.
again for all carb stuff and lots of extra goodies just go to what i uploaded and browse for some neat stuff.
even have a printable degree wheel and two stroke theory and etc..

http://www.divshare.com/folder/687780-930
 
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One of the things you may want to do to see if the needle is leaking is a pressure test. Walbro makes a pressure pump that can be used. You hook a piece of tubing to the fuel inlet on the carburetor from the pressure pump. The needle/seat should hold about 10 psi pressure. Some Mity-Vac models that apply pressure can also be used. If you Google Walbro carb pressure testing, there is a You tube video that demonstrates this test.
 
One of the things you may want to do to see if the needle is leaking is a pressure test. Walbro makes a pressure pump that can be used. You hook a piece of tubing to the fuel inlet on the carburetor from the pressure pump. The needle/seat should hold about 10 psi pressure. Some Mity-Vac models that apply pressure can also be used. If you Google Walbro carb pressure testing, there is a You tube video that demonstrates this test.

Thats covered here.

http://www.divshare.com/download/10696201-20c
 
waslbro carbs help

on your website - can't open the walbro division - says it doesn't exist ??? thanks
 
on your website - can't open the walbro division - says it doesn't exist ??? thanks

Go to the bottom of that page.
click on the one you want.
will go to next page and hit dowload there,wait 15 seconds.
if popup blocker you will get a warning at top,allow file to download .
 
No gas to cylinder when properly adjusting the lever

Hi, guys,
I just rebuilt a WA carburetor, installed on a Husqvarna 50, pulled the rope a lot, but no fire. Removed the sparkplug, no smell of gas at all. I modified the lever height about 25 mils above the normal-flush level, the saw started and run properly. Any ideas where's the problem?
Thank you.
 
Hi, guys,
I just rebuilt a WA carburetor, installed on a Husqvarna 50, pulled the rope a lot, but no fire. Removed the sparkplug, no smell of gas at all. I modified the lever height about 25 mils above the normal-flush level, the saw started and run properly. Any ideas where's the problem?
Thank you.

It is possible the carb is not getting a pulse. I think this saw has a pulse hose, maybe it's disconnected, if it pulses through the carb base make sure it's not clogged up or leaking. Also, did you check the spark?
 
It is possible the carb is not getting a pulse. I think this saw has a pulse hose, maybe it's disconnected, if it pulses through the carb base make sure it's not clogged up or leaking. Also, did you check the spark?

Thank you for the answer, a. palmer. The pulsing hole is in the base, it is not clogged, also, the gasket is brand new, so there is no false air coming in. Anyhow, I run the saw as is, but the mixture is somehow rich.
 
Thank you for the answer, a. palmer. The pulsing hole is in the base, it is not clogged, also, the gasket is brand new, so there is no false air coming in. Anyhow, I run the saw as is, but the mixture is somehow rich.

The lean or rich is a combination of the H and L screws and the metering lever. If it's a little rich you can correct it with the H screw if it's doing it at running speed. Also the L screw not only controls the mixture at idle it also controls the mixture on the high end too, only not as much. Low end is L only, high end is L+H. If you have to turn the screws almost all the way in, you should look at lowering the lever a bit.
 
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