Wash the chain?

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Just got my Harbor Freight chain sharpener today. Instructions say to the 'wash the chain in non-flammable solvent' before sharpening.

1. Does anyone actually do this?
2. What solvent do you use if so?

I was rather surprised when I picked up the UPS box. I figured it must be the sharpener but the box was so light I couldn't believe a sharpener was in there. Looks like a fairly well designed unit but for sure not designed for a production shop. The tooth stop is rather loose and the screw adjustment to set the distance seems a bit cheesy but what can you expect from that cheap a tool. It for sure will do everything I will ever ask of it.

Harry K
 
I got a used Oregon without instructions so I don't know if washing is suggested,but I didn't want to put a dirty chain on it so I used a flamable solvent,gas.It didn't cut the crud so I used carb cleaner and that seemed to work ok.I noticed that if the chain isn't clean that sometimes I have to help the chain relax to a flat position in the clamp inorder to get every tooth the same.Seems like crud gets inbetween tie straps-My guess,or maby thats a sign that the chain is getting worn out?
 
I dont typically wash the chain unless its really really dirty. I've got an old worn out file I use to remove the dirt from the cutting edge to be sharpened.

IMO, the Harbor freight grinder is no 411A, but it'll get the shape back to where you want it so you can fine tune the edge with a file if you wanted on really rocked out chains.
 
I ussually soak them in carb cleaner or solvent if they are filthy, other than that put em on the grinder and go.
Andy
 
Dirty chains

A cheap way to clean a dirty chain is use oven cleaner.I learned this along time a go with my sharpening business.Lay it on aboard or something and spray it.Fold the chain so all the links are together.Let it soak.If it is really dirty put a brush to it .Plastic is OK if you wash it out real fast.The cheapest oven cleaner is at Walmart in their dollar sectionSharpen the chain put on the saw,and run it till oil is coming off bar ,then start cutting.
Ed
 
Cleaning chain

I remove the chain from the saw,wash it in varsol and blow it dry with compressed air.Put it on an old true 14' bar in a vise to sharpen with an Oregon file sharpener.A Brass brush is used to clean any dirt on the teeth.I wash the sharpened chain in different varsol in a glass jar,dip chain in #30 engine oil and let it drip over the oil bath for a day.A small magnet is used to remove any metal filings from the second wash.I use 5 chains in rotation on a 066 and the 20" bar will last for all 5.Keep bar cleaned out and greased.I know this seems like a lot of work but I have 5 sharp chains with me,maximum cutting performance in the bush and the chains and bar life is great.
 
Timbrjackrussel: Sounds like a good plan to me, rotating the chains that way. How does your sprocket stand up during the life of the five chains?
 
Rim drive life

I have good life span of the rim drive .I can make it last for 5 chains.I keep chains sharp and well lubricated.Depth gauge set at .025".Tension set correctly on the chain.Grease nose every tank of fuel.The ideal situation is to just let the saw fall through the cut with no downward pressure, this has minimal load on the engine, bar,chain and rim drive.Keep bar out of the dirt!I cut Oak and Hard Maple with 2 066's and a MS660 exhaust modded and set at 13,000 RPM.
 
Old Mac Guy said:
Timbrjackrussel: Sounds like a good plan to me, rotating the chains that way. How does your sprocket stand up during the life of the five chains?
My Amish Stihl dealer recommends changing the rim sprocket every two chains.

Alot of times, I can get three or four chains worth out of one sprocket. It all depends on how hard you work the saw (pushing) or let the saw do its own. Less push, more life and less wear on the chain, bar and sprocket.

-Steve
 
Chain washing made easy

Don't know if this will work or not but here's goes. At work I throw all dirty chains in the Cuda, they come out looking like brand spanking new. All the Cuda does is steam it in water at 180 degrees along with some high speed jets. Could probly toss a chain in a pan of boiling water and get the same results. Oil after drying..................
 
THALL10326 said:
Don't know if this will work or not but here's goes. At work I throw all dirty chains in the Cuda, they come out looking like brand spanking new. All the Cuda does is steam it in water at 180 degrees along with some high speed jets. Could probly toss a chain in a pan of boiling water and get the same results. Oil after drying..................


How about the Dishwasher?

:laugh:


***DISCLAIMER to all the redneck hillbilles that would try it, The wife WILL NOT APPRCIATE IT. It was meant to be funny, not serious. Although, if you enjoy the aroma of wood chips and the taste of used bar oil, this may be your ticket!

***Freakingstang will not be held liable for any of the content in this post***
 
Freakingstang said:
How about the Dishwasher?

:laugh:


***DISCLAIMER to all the redneck hillbilles that would try it, The wife WILL NOT APPRCIATE IT. It was meant to be funny, not serious. Although, if you enjoy the aroma of wood chips and the taste of used bar oil, this may be your ticket!

***Freakingstang will not be held liable for any of the content in this post***

haha,smarty, I was gonna say that,lololol, really I was and it will probly work,lololololol
 
turnkey4099 said:
Just got my Harbor Freight chain sharpener today. Instructions say to the 'wash the chain in non-flammable solvent' before sharpening.

1. Does anyone actually do this?
2. What solvent do you use if so?

If a chain was really yecky I would toss it into my parts washer loaded with mineral spirits. Otherwise I simply sharpen it up.

These little grinders will do a fair job, but watch the accuracy. Did you know that you can reverse the motor for the left cutters? This helps a little bit, and is a fairly simple addition of a switch.

-Pat
 
Ive thought about suggesting that to my dealer. Get one of those dishwashers that will heat the water. I bet you could do crankcases too. Use pressure washer degreaser instead of dish soap......
 
I deal with grinding wheels every day. They most likely recommend cleaning the chain to keep the wheel from "packing up".


This happens when metal particles get into the lil crevices in the wheel and become lodged there. This causes the wheel to generate more heat and will burn the steel.


Any oil, wood fibers, sap etc. will clog the wheel and cause it to pack up very quickly.
 
Patrick62 said:
If a chain was really yecky I would toss it into my parts washer loaded with mineral spirits. Otherwise I simply sharpen it up.

These little grinders will do a fair job, but watch the accuracy. Did you know that you can reverse the motor for the left cutters? This helps a little bit, and is a fairly simple addition of a switch.

-Pat

I don't expect a 'pro' job from this little tool but it solves a couple problems for me. I can't see detail enough anymore to do a decent job handfiling and the local 'fix-it' shop that I took chains to after I had them pretty well out-of-whack from handfiling just closed. Next nearest is a 50 mile round-trip drive.

Aside. The sorry state of logging here in Eastern Wa is being reflected in the dealerships. Used to be a very good one in Potlatch, Id. Last time I was there (bought my 310 there) it was down to a small shop with a couple young kids. Then I looked for some wedges, etc at John's Saw Shop, Lewiston, Id (100 mile round-trip) the other day. Sad, sad, sad, he was also known as the 'go-to' for pro loggers. Display area had a MS 390 as the biggest saw with everything else the small saws and almost all of them home-owner types along with a plethora of weedwhackers etc.

Harry K
 
RaisedByWolves said:
I deal with grinding wheels every day. They most likely recommend cleaning the chain to keep the wheel from "packing up".

Correct you are! Once the wheel packs up, and it will only take grinding less than 6 cutters, it is very easy to burn cutters.
 

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