What hand pruning saws do you prefer?

[esshup]

I'm getting more and more requests to prune trees. Mostly from one client that has a large property. The majority of the trees are Oaks (Red, White and Pin) and Sugar Maples that were spaded in around his ponds. BUT the trees in his nursery area need pruning to train them too, so I guess it's a 2-3 part question. The trees around the ponds that were spaded 1 to 2 years ago are getting to be 5"-8" DBH now and they need to be pruned so that his tractor can drive under them without hitting the branches.

For the smaller trees, I need to get a good set of hand pruners for the smaller branches.

For the larger trees, I do not have a hand pruning saw, and feel that one would really come in handy.

I have a Fiskars pole pruner, and extra saw blades for it, but I feel that it's more of a higher end homeowners pole pruner than professional and would like to upgrade that as well, as it's starting to show it's age.

The branches will run the gamut from 1/4" to roughly 2"-3".

Any advice you have would be appreciated.

 

[treesmith]

Silky tsurugi, slim for small fruit prunes, fast cutting and leaves a very clean cut even with the big teeth version, works a treat on big gum deadwoods too

 

[Cheesecutter]

I agree. Silky saws are pretty impressive. I have a couple of the Zubat and my buddy has the Hayauchi polesaw.

 

[Ferguson system]

I use felco pruners, silky zubat 240 and sugoi 360, silky hauychi polesaw, jonsered polesaw, and ARS polepruners.

 

[ATH]

Another vote for Silky. Haven't found one I really don't like ... Though the Sugoi is much better than the Ibuki in my opinion if you are looking at their bigger saws. Look through what is available and see what you think will fit your need best.

If you have stuff within reach under an inch, a good pair of hand pruners is a great compliment to your Silky. I really like the Felco 13 if your hands are not too small. Get bypass pruners, not the "anvil" type.

For a pole pruner, I have been happy with the Fred Marvin. I also have a big Corona. It is OK when I need it, but has a wide swing behind it. There isn't much need for that because if it is too big for the smaller pole pruner, it is probably big enough for the Silky Hayate pole saw (which I also really like...for the right circumstances).

Larger loppers: I use them, but not nearly as much as the hand saw, hand loppers, pole pruner, or pole saw. I have the better Corona model here. Theybare nice, but I am sure there are better sets out there I just don't use them enough to go shopping.

 

[JeffGu]

The Silky, of course, is the best of the lot shown... with the Komelon and Husqvarna saws close behind... the Fiskars at far right I just juse for cutting roots.

 

[esshup]

Thanks guys!! That's helped a lot. It reinforces what I was considering.

 

[TreeswingerPerth]

Silky natanoko and Gomtaro for me , love them !!

 

[CanopyGorilla]

or this if you don't want to spend $100 on a handsaw that's going to wear out anyway. My old boss used to buy Silky and when I started my business I figured I'd buy a Fanno Mondo to start, then upgrade to a Silky later. After having the Mondo for a while I realized the blades last about the same amount of time. One is $60 to replace, one is $20 to replace. Sure the Silky is a bit sharper to start with, and has a cool hook on the end, but........

 

[ATH]

Silky Sugoi saws are $70 on Amazon right now... I paid 55 or 60 (as best as I recall) a few months ago.

 

[esshup]

O.K. Last set of questions.

What are the pros and cons of the XL vs. large vs. medium teeth, and is there any appreciable performance/usage difference between curved and straight blades or is it just a personal preference?

 

[ATH]

I think curved vs. straight is personal preference...but all the really good saws seem to be curved blades, so I guess that is what they tell me I prefer. If they had a straight blade Sugoi, I'd buy one today and give it a try.

Teeth size: bigger teeth = more bite with each pull, but also more work to make the pull. Medium teeth would be for pruning stuff under 2" - mostly under 1". I wouldn't want that on a saw I am using for bigger material all day.

 

[Jsquirrel78]

Silky blades in my experience outlast fanno blades twofold. Silky's stay sharp longer. I my opinion, they're worth the extra money. And as far as curved vs. straight blades, the curved is designed to cut with less effort. I think the zübat is dollar for dollar one of the best out there.

 

[CanopyGorilla]

Silky blades in my experience outlast fanno blades twofold. Silky's stay sharp longer. I my opinion, they're worth the extra money. And as far as curved vs. straight blades, the curved is designed to cut with less effort. I think the zübat is dollar for dollar one of the best out there.

I think Silky's start a little sharper and last a little longer, but you still need to replace them. To me, the cost doesn't outweigh the benefits. I can still boss-hog my way through a 5" limb pretty damn fast. In precarious unbalanced stances taking leaning tops out etc. I even use a hand saw for face and back cuts. Just my opinion.

As far as tooth size goes, large teeth for efficiency, small teeth for a clean finishing cut on fruit trees or thin barked species. This is where I would buy a Silky. I really want a Tsurugi for fruit and ornamental prunes.

 

[M.D. Vaden]

O.K. Last set of questions.

What are the pros and cons of the XL vs. large vs. medium teeth, and is there any appreciable performance/usage difference between curved and straight blades or is it just a personal preference?

I like Silky Zubat or ARS. Both work fine. The Zubat is slightly better, but not by much.

Curved blades require less expenditure of energy. A straight blade requires effort to pull and some effort to push down. A curved blade erases some of the effort required to push downward.

XL teeth mean hand pruners may need to be pulled out to cut 1/2 inch of smaller limbs. With fine to medium teeth I am able to cut twigs down to about 1/4" to 3/8" without shredding.

 

[Ferguson system]

I like Silky Zubat or ARS. Both work fine. The Zubat is slightly better, but not by much.

Curved blades require less expenditure of energy. A straight blade requires effort to pull and some effort to push down. A curved blade erases some of the effort required to push downward.

XL teeth mean hand pruners may need to be pulled out to cut 1/2 inch of smaller limbs. With fine to medium teeth I am able to cut twigs down to about 1/4" to 3/8" without shredding.

That's why I only use curved blades. It requires less effort from the user and it cuts faster.

I use my Zubat 240 for pruning and Sugoi 360 for larger branches and removals.

 

[Zale]

If you go with a straight blade, be aware it will pull out of the cut much quicker verses the curved. This can result in stitches depending on hand placement. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[FChenard]

The sugoi is my favorite, like some said before the curved blade requires less effort to push the blade down and the last big teeth at the end of the blade makes it almost impossible to pull out of the cut when there's downward pressure on the saw. Therefore, i would not recommend it for smaller trees or fruit trees since the large teeth schreds more than the small one. I use a tsuguri for the small trees.

 

[1984 Saw]

Fanno for 30 plus years learn to Sharpen your Blades, two beers in time and it's like a new blade. Buy a new blade put it on the pole saw sharpened blade hand saw get a rotation going. Pole pruner Marvin