What is a Pro Mac 700 worth?

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The early cover for left hand starter models looks like this, and uses the same spike as the RH start saws;

mcculloch_mac_10-10-chainsaw_100_wentzville_12335675.jpg


The later flat cover had the chain brake, but no exhaust guard. You can gut the brake, and get close to the early version in weight, but it is not as attractive, and it uses the later spike for the 600 series.

rhMedium-20.jpg

I'm not sure what the goal is in changing covers. I have all three versions. The non-brake version is certainly light but you have no chain brake. The early chain brake version as shown in the picture uses the same spikes as the non-chain brake version; it is the newer version that shares spikes with the 600 series. I like the older spikes but you will be hard pressed to find a early chain brake version that is not cracked (or completely busted) at the chain adjuster. Personally I think the later version is the strongest although the heaviest. If you want to make your own then get a cover off a DE80 or the late model PM800 (the one with the cutout for the DSP) - most of these are broken at the muffler guard so you can just cut off the rest of the muffler guard but they have a gusset at the chain adjuster that none of the other chain brake covers have. If you don't want a chain brake then IMO the early non-chain brake cover is the way to go - factory looks, lightweight and easy to handle so you are less likely to tighten the bar down with the adjuster out of slot (the cause of the cracks). Ron
 
... that THIS prize was overlooked! :yoyo:

WOW...

Someone's in dream-land.

I'm no 10 series expert. I had a 2-10 with yellow jug and tank, my current LM 10-10s is unpainted jug, black tank. In mining the graveyard, 10 series jug and tank sets seemed to indicate early models had yellow jugs and tanks, later had unpainted jugs and either yellow or black tanks.

Whatever, good score. Let's see/hear some video of her purring!
 
Could anyone with a 700 please post a pic of the trigger area where the throttle rod connects to the trigger? I need to figure out a way to get this fixed permanently. I may need to take the top cover off, does the fuel tank split in half? There is a screw running right down the middle.
 
Hey all, I wanted to bump this to the top and see I anyone could help me out with a pic of the throttle trigger linkage and how the tank comes apart on this saw. Thanks.
 
That NIB saw on Ebay was on there before. I asked the guy to post a picture of the boxand he never did.

I wish I could post pictures on here biscuit. My computer just won't do it.
 
I ran my PM700 a bit on Saturday with both 20" and 24" bar. Either way it pulls pretty well but I was surprised how heavy it seemed. I also ran my CP55 and thought it was pretty sweet but certainly does not have the power of the PM700. Maybe one day I will get inspired to really fix up the CP70, that should be a great little saw.

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Mark
 
Hey all, I wanted to bump this to the top and see I anyone could help me out with a pic of the throttle trigger linkage and how the tank comes apart on this saw. Thanks.

Mark has done all I can do. There is not any way to get a picture of the trigger connection that would tell you anything. If you need a shot of the air box side (i.e. the connection to the carb and the threading of the snubber), I can do that. Just let me know. Ron
 
Mark has done all I can do. There is not any way to get a picture of the trigger connection that would tell you anything. If you need a shot of the air box side (i.e. the connection to the carb and the threading of the snubber), I can do that. Just let me know. Ron

Yeah, that would be great. I'm just trying to see if I am missing anything as to why it keeps popping out.
 
I like my 700....:)


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Yeah, that would be great. I'm just trying to see if I am missing anything as to why it keeps popping out.

I just download pictures of a muffler in the MAC thread but now I can't download the PM700 pictures you wanted :bang: Sometimes (a lot of the time) I hate computers or they hate me. Sorry, Ron
 
I'm curious why $100-150 was considered only a pretty good price to buy this saw, when there is currently one being auctioned on eBay with the bidding already over $400. Shipping is $38 and it comes with a new extra bar.
 
I'm curious why $100-150 was considered only a pretty good price to buy this saw, when there is currently one being auctioned on eBay with the bidding already over $400. Shipping is $38 and it comes with a new extra bar.
Cause it was several years ago.
 

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