What on earth is happening to blount products

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Is this what you mean? Picture borrowed from member MCW on another thread.

View attachment 506122 View attachment 506123
No the vertical rear edge of the cutter in the photo ( on the right in the photo ) should be filed so the top outer face is slighty shorter than the lower face an angle of approx 45degs( but parallel to the back edge ) similar to counter sinking the cutter trailing edge in effect shortening the outer surface of the cutter What it is doing in effect is shortening the cutter slightly in overall length as the filed bit is not touching the wood
 
I can't for the life of me see why that would make any difference in how the chain behaves. I'm my eyes that piece of the cutter would never touch the wood in any meaningful way. Please explain the function of the rear portion of the cutter and how that changes anything.
 
This is a shorter but higher def clip of a video I posted before, showing VXL in ash. The camera was having a bit of a hard time focusing on the saw, I think due to high frequency vibrations. Anyway, you can still see the A/V working, but it was not really gabby at all. It's had a couple of filings.

On the other hand this is a 68DL loop and maybe a little heavier saw. It's running around 10k rpm.

 
I can't for the life of me see why that would make any difference in how the chain behaves. I'm my eyes that piece of the cutter would never touch the wood in any meaningful way. Please explain the function of the rear portion of the cutter and how that changes anything.
Dsell & Ravental Yep that is correct. Smokey I am only passing on the info given to us by the Blount area rep, we tried it ( a bind filing all the cutters ) but on that particular chain it worked, it was supposedly a stop gap mod until they sorted it, which they seem not to have done, & as we started using Windsor chain I have not had any dealings with VXL for some time until my neighbors 'jobby' a week or so ago to still find the same problem.
 
Sharpened the VXL for the first time Friday with manual granberg for a weekend of cutting, huge shower of nice big chips, very aggressive chain, maybe faster than the factory sharpening,

but still grabby, I may try the 45 degree trick or just wait a few and see how it goes as the cutter gets shorter. I barely took any off this time. Just a few swipes

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I also can't imagine why modifying the back of the cutter would work EXCEPT if it affects the amount that the tooth can rotate into the wood as the cutter is dragged through. If it allowed the tooth to rotate into a more aggressive attack angle, it just might work but being as the original poster was referencing 3/8 Lo-Po chain I sincerely doubt it.

HOWEVER, modifying the rear of the cutter removes the point of reference that most people use to determine if they are removing equal amounts of material from the FRONT of the cutter. Unless you removed exactly the same amount from the rear of each cutter you will have a mess on your hands and no real way to fix it.
 
I also don't understand how it would help on normal cuts. I could see it make a difference on plunge cuts. Perhaps the caliper to check the length of the tooth is thick enough to still catch the back of the cutter after it is ground at 45°. I wonder what the factory uses for the reference point to sharpen the chisel? I've always wondered how accurate it is referencing the back of the cutter.
 
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