What type chain for my situation

[loadthestove]

I recently purchased just over an acre of property that joins mine .
The property was clean grass fields until owner passed in 2002.the property has been un touched until now.

Property is full of trees( most poplar) that I'm clearing .I have guite a few large trees ( enough to build my grandkids a log cabin ) .
I'm stacking the building size logs and cutting everything else into firewood
(I know poplar isn't much for firewood but I hate to waste anything) and piling the brush up for a major bonfire

Anyway my problem is there is hundreds of smaller trees 1-2 inches in diameter that I cutting down .
Not wanting to ruin any tires on my tractor or t-rex I cutting them off at ground level. We all know what dirt does to chains
Is there any type of chain that will hold up under this kind of use.

The larger stumps I'm leaving tall enough to pull/dig out with an excavator .

 

[J D]

Semi chisel chain if it's going near the ground, not sure if any particular make or model is superior in dirt. Might be worth looking into carbide if there's lots to do & you have the ability to get it sharpened. Have you considered a brush cutter or decent set of loppers for the smaller stuff?

 

[ElevatorGuy]

1-2” poplars I’d pull out with my tractor, chain and brush grubber. They will come out easily. Just as fast as cutting them if you have a help so you don’t need to get on and off the machine. I’ve pulled some 20-35’ tall, up to 5” trees dbh with my 1025r. Mostly hollys, beech and poplar. Did have a larger beech and a skinny sweetgum kick my butt a little but the tractor won.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

1-2” poplars I’d pull out with my tractor, chain and brush grubber. They will come out easily. Just as fast as cutting them if you have a help so you don’t need to get on and off the machine. I’ve pulled some 20-35’ tall, up to 5” trees dbh with my 1025r. Mostly hollys, beech and poplar. Did have a larger beech and a skinny sweetgum kick my butt a little but the tractor won.

I pretty much agree with EG in that cutting small trees is a waste of time. For me I pull them out with my winch. That is only because my bobcat is too far away to use. A fifty foot length of cable with at least one snatch block will do wonders. If you really have a tough 5'' tree then maybe two snatch blocks will be necessary. If the trees are cut at ground level then you have created a very significant hazard if you need to travel over that ground again. Punctured tires is just one part of the problem. I would suggest that completely removing trees when possible will be far more rewarding. Thanks

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Cutting small poplar may compound your problem as they stump sprout into several more. You may also want to brush hog at some point. Cut them tall and have the excavator grub them out. If you plan to burn the stumps you may want the small stuff to burn with the larger ones.
I had an excavator clear an acre. He did it in short order and then hauled the stumps off. I did not want to look at them for ten years piled up. I dropped the trees, chipped the small stuff and gave away the logs to a guy with a boiler.

 

[loadthestove]

Good replies,just trying to cut small stiff down so I can get in there to work.when cleared I'm going to use an excavator to get stumps out and will use a bushog for a first year than plan on using my tow behind finish mower.
A dozer would work wonders but they generally push up big piles that you can do anything with .

 

[savageactor7]

While dirt may dull a chain, sand/gravel is the real show stopper for chains.

I'd go with an aggressive pro chain that you, yourself can hand sharpen...often as needed.

Another thing, those bigger stumps that are say on a future drive pathway, use the saw tip to tic tac toe # the stumps. they will be inclined to hold water and rot away faster. After some rotting I've use a spud bar to good effect.

Yeah it's not fast but it works.

 

[LoneOak]

I do a lot of this kind of work. I have found that .325 pitch, Semi-chisel, full comp chain works quite nicely for this task. Gauge is irrelevant use .50 or .63. I buy cheap bars and chain from Ebay because the fine sand in the local dirt is very abrasive and I just cant see ruining a quality bar and chain.
Not sure what saw you have but here are some examples from Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293736861113?epid=15047890116&hash=item446414cdb9:g:fZQAAOSwMmpe6vrZ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254766951687?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110002&algo=SPLIC

 

[SimonHS]

A clearing saw (big engine, heavy duty brushcutter) will take out the small stuff and be easier on your back, instead of bending down with a chainsaw. Should be quicker too. Something like an old Husky 39R, or whatever the modern version of that is, either Husky or Stihl.

 

[Northerner]

Brush saw works good for small stuff, the one on the right is a big beast, 265rx husky. Eats 1” trees for snacks.

 

[cookies]

get a machete and just cut them waist high in 2-3 hits, keep it sharp and it will go fast

 

[Franny K]

Carbide tipped circular bladed for brush cutters are less money on eBay than I used to pay for steel ones.

Oregon seems to have discontinued the multiple chrome layer duracut chains but some is still available. It has M at the begining like M20bpx. Carbide is also available, it chips or can chip though.

 

[esshup]

If there is a rental place that rents a bobcat with a fecon head, that is what I'd use for a day. Easily chew up trees to 12" DBH depending on the size of the machine, I used one that chewed up to 6" trees and turned them and the stumps to mulch. IIRC $400/day + about 40 gallons of diesel for a full 8 hour day, but the amount of work that you can accomplish in 1 day is equal to a few weeks of cutting trees down. No sharp stuff left to puncture tires either, it will go down an inch or two in the soil.

If you HAVE TO use the chainsaw to do the work, then look for a carbide toothed chain.

 

[Brushwacker]

I keep carbide chains to use on short picco bars for situations like cutting small trees ground level where I will drive or where very dirty wood will need cut. 12 to 16inch stihl picco carbide I usually can snag enough for what i use $35 to $45 each watching ebay. Don't use them often but if i will be cutting a fair amount of dirty wood they get the job done. They do chip and break teeth at a point and will stretch and wear out that way, but i have yet to dull 1 to the point it wouldn't cut decent and they do cut fast for a long time has been my experience.
I have a couple brushcutter blades for my trimmers but have barely used them. They may be better for clearing larger amounts of ground cover. The last blade I tried seemed very aggressive on saplings.

 

[Brushwacker]

Definitely spray or treat the stumps if you don't want them to grow back.

 

[Bubster]

I actually like to use a sawzall for that type of brush.I have a Bosch cordless that will cut for what seems like a month on 1 charge.There are cheaper ones out there.One blade will last you for several dozen trees,even if you are in the dirt.Get a blade made for nail embedded wood,it will cut the fastest.

 

[Bubster]

But I failed to answer your actual question.Semi-chisel chain would be the best route for that using a chainsaw.