AT sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
When is the best time of year to prune a sugar maple? Seems like no matter when I prune them they weep sap for days and days.
When to prune maples?
- Thread starter AT sawyer
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AT, we like to prune maples after spring leaf development. Here in Montana, if you prune late in the fall through the winter they hemorrhage sap every day above freezing. And, whereas the books may tell you that is ok, I personally don't like to see it and the client doesn't like to see it.
General information also states that pruning earlier in the year will result in the tree sealing its wounds faster as opposed to cuts made during the late fall/winter.
By the by, sugar maples, in our experience here, require little to no pruning; generally removal of an occasional crossover and deadwood.
Sylvia
General information also states that pruning earlier in the year will result in the tree sealing its wounds faster as opposed to cuts made during the late fall/winter.
By the by, sugar maples, in our experience here, require little to no pruning; generally removal of an occasional crossover and deadwood.
Sylvia
AT sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks. Guess I'd better get trimming soon before we run out of spring.
Sylvia spoke English here--she said to WAIT until leaves are (fully) developed. She was also right in saying to go easy. Why not post a picture so she can see what you are talking about?
AT sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
It's a tree that came with my house. Probably 25 years old and I have to duck under the lowest limbs when I mow the lawn. Just want to remove the head bangers.
motoroilmccall
ArboristSite Guru
You can elevate the tree without hurting it, just go easy and make sure you use a good sharp chain or lopper.
Or you can get a mulch ring out to the drip line to avoid mowing conflicts.
Please post some pictures.
Sylvia
AT sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
The tree is nicely shaped, but the lowest limbs, particularly the one on the left hang low. The lowest limb on the right is heading for my house. I suppose I could trim it back without taking it off at the trunk. What would you suggest?
AT, you have a magnificent tree as a focal point in your front lawn area. The structure is what I would have expected of a sugar (at least in our trees here) in that the limbs are ascending. I would definitely recommend taking only smaller branchlets, hanging down, coming off of the main limbs rather than the entire limb. Even those might be able to be reduced rather than removed as you don't want to lion's tail these limbs. Better for the tree, better for aesthetics, removes the head thumpers...a win win situation.
Sugar maples have the capability of living over 300 years; it is important to work with their optimum growth and structure.
Could we get a picture of the base? If you don't want a large mulch ring, I would still recommend at least a smaller one to negate the mowing conflict.
Sylvia
AT sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
I certainly don't want to butcher the tree, which is why I made my original post. I could open the mulch ring up a lot more than it is, as that is the original set of stones from when the tree was a sapling. I don't want the ring to overtake my yard though.
AT, do you by any chance know how old this tree is? It is very tall for its diameter. But again, I am going by our sugar maples here, so take that comment for what it is worth.
If you are up for increasing the mulch ring, I would do so. You don't have to let it take over your yard. Our recommendations to clients for the size is a precise formula, CTFM = Client Tolerance for Mulch.
As you do this, I would gently excavate around the base to see if you can expose a flair on the left side of the tree. As you look at the picture you posted, you will notice there is a flair towards the house and not one toward the street. Ideally, you would have a flair all the way around the base.
Also there are little roots exposed on the house side and I can't tell if they are overlapping another larger root. If so, I would cut those off, releasing the larger root beneath them from pressure. Again, go gently.
One more caution, be aware of fertilizing your lawn too much in the area of your tree. Too much Nitrogen can overstimulate top growth at the expense of root development.
Sylvia
If you are up for increasing the mulch ring, I would do so. You don't have to let it take over your yard. Our recommendations to clients for the size is a precise formula, CTFM = Client Tolerance for Mulch.
As you do this, I would gently excavate around the base to see if you can expose a flair on the left side of the tree. As you look at the picture you posted, you will notice there is a flair towards the house and not one toward the street. Ideally, you would have a flair all the way around the base.
Also there are little roots exposed on the house side and I can't tell if they are overlapping another larger root. If so, I would cut those off, releasing the larger root beneath them from pressure. Again, go gently.
One more caution, be aware of fertilizing your lawn too much in the area of your tree. Too much Nitrogen can overstimulate top growth at the expense of root development.
Sylvia
AT sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
I'm guessing the tree's age is about 25 years and the DBH is about 12-13". I have only done very minor pruning on it. I originally said it was a sugar maple based on the builder's notes. It might be some other maple, but it's not a silver maple.
9th year rookie
ArboristSite Member
more on sugar maples - pruning
I was reading the "when to prune maples" thread and read S Mc responses
By the by, sugar maples, in our experience here, require little to no pruning; generally removal of an occasional crossover and deadwood
and
Sugar maples have the capability of living over 300 years; it is important to work with their optimum growth and structure.
Most "antique" sugars that I've seen many have pretty nice structure, but I've also been in many (about the size of the one shown in the pic from AT Sawyer) where the branches are growing extremely dense and vertical.
Take out the dead/dieing/diseased/crossing/ and even another 15- 20% and it still looks like I wasn't there.
If we let the Sugar do-its-thing and grow dense, will that optimize growth/structure? Maybe I should slow down and check things out after a few pruning cycles.
I need to get a pic
(ditto for Bradford Pear)
I was reading the "when to prune maples" thread and read S Mc responses
By the by, sugar maples, in our experience here, require little to no pruning; generally removal of an occasional crossover and deadwood
and
Sugar maples have the capability of living over 300 years; it is important to work with their optimum growth and structure.
Most "antique" sugars that I've seen many have pretty nice structure, but I've also been in many (about the size of the one shown in the pic from AT Sawyer) where the branches are growing extremely dense and vertical.
Take out the dead/dieing/diseased/crossing/ and even another 15- 20% and it still looks like I wasn't there.
If we let the Sugar do-its-thing and grow dense, will that optimize growth/structure? Maybe I should slow down and check things out after a few pruning cycles.
I need to get a pic
(ditto for Bradford Pear)
9th year rookie
ArboristSite Member
sorry
I meant to start a new thread
I meant to start a new thread
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